OK, my helms came today and I am now getting ready for the rebuild. I have come across a few problems. First, the easy stuff.

In the pic below, I just match the letter and number on the main bearing chart and order the right color. Then install right? What about when I get my crank micropolished and balanced? Will this make a difference? What if I have to line bore or hone my main journals? Will this make a difference?



Now for the rod bearings, I found the number on the crank, but I am getting eagle rods as soon as damon gets them in stock. WIll they come with a number stamped on the side of them? I am guessing no. There is no mention of how to measure the big end of the rods and coorespond the measurement to the bearing color. How do I decide which bearings to use? Again, will micropolish and balance make any difference.



This is where I think it may get hairy. First look at the pic.



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I am thinking the red lines are the right ones, but since the letters are stamped upside down of what the manual says, I am not sure. If someone knows for sure, please respond.

I DO plan on plastigageing everything, I just do not want to buy the wrong bearing the first time around. Thanks,


[Modified by 2K_TEG, 9:14 PM 5/15/2002]


[Modified by 2K_TEG, 9:16 PM 5/15/2002]

 

Go by the helms directions. Read the letters from left to right and thats how you match them to the mains. First letter on left = #1 main, Second letter = #2 main, etc..

 

Anyone else? I know you guys have rebuilt some engines.

Also, should I be worried about doing this myself? Seems like everything I read is talking about what a precise and delicate process this is...should I just pay a shop to do it? I am worried that I do not know the "tips and tricks" and doing this rebuild/blueprinting just as the helms says may not give me the same results as would be had by an experienced engine builder. It may cost about the same seeing that I am going to have to buy a whole bunch of tools to do it the right way. Thanks,

 

back up top...again.

 

someone????

 

i agree with willis.
Its an excellent learning experience, i myself am rebuilding a gsr, while my me and my friend on working on his ls/vtec. but if you feel like your unable to handle all the problems that may arise or the intricate details of rebuilding a motor i suggest you have someone who has experience take on the task.

Edit: By the way i can hardly make out anything in the second picture. make it larger.


[Modified by gsr squirrel, 2:11 PM 5/16/2002]

 

Rods - Eagle Rod = Honda #3+Crank code. Make sure all the bearing tangs are on the exhaust side. Keep this in mind when installing the pistons onto the rods. Rod bearing Clr .0015"-.0017"

Mains - Buy the bearings colors that are currently in there. Some stock mains don't match those stamped on the block. Have your crank reworked, plastigauge with new bearings. You are lucky if you get all the right bearings the first time. Each color steps .0002". If your close, you can swap the color in the caps to achieve your desired clr. Shoot for .0015" for 1,2,4,5 and .0017" on #3.

 

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It is not that I do not think I can handle it, I can follow directions, I am a smart guy and I have the motivation to do it right. It is that I haven't done it before and I do not want to **** anything up just because I didn't know a certain trick. If I follow the helms word for word will I have the same results as any other engine builder? What makes a good engine builder? I think since it is my engine I would do a better job than anyone else just because I would care more. This could be wrong though. I am interested in hearing all your opinions and experiences. Thanks.

 

If you are unsure about anything just stop and ask or look up the answer. If you even think you might have done something wrong, do it again. When your done, you should have no question in your mind that the clr and torque settings for everything are right. You will pay more attention because it is your motor. I practiced by taking apart, plastigauging, reassembling with the stock pieces while I waited for my forged pieces on my first build. Just pay attention to detail, and don't cut any corners. Plan on problems arising and take your time. Read over the procedure in the helms, and ask questions till you feel comfortable trying it yourself. Good luck

 

To answer some of the questions you originally asked...Micropolishing does not affect the diameter of the crank journal so you could use the same color main bearings that came out of the block. If someone tells you that your block needs to be align honed, get a new block. That's pretty rare unless you spun a main bearing.
Balancing has no affect on any sizeing.
If you switch to an Eagle rod, the numbers on the crank become meaningless. Set your rod clearances by using plastigage.
Don't forget to put new thrust bearing around #4. Buy them from Honda as they are cheap.
Having perfect clearance to the nearest ten thousandth of an inch is not all it's made out to be. Just put them within the limits will be fine. I don't think you can return an installed bearing to Honda and they are not cheap.
I have found a bearing that I like as much as Honda. They are called ACL's. Thay are made in Australia and have the same quality as Honda's. Clearance always comes out great and I abuse them at 10,000 rpms and over 600 hp.
Also be sure to set your ring gaps to the proper specs.
Do the rebuild yourself. You CAN do it. Just ask questions and take your time. On the final install, be sure to use assy. lube. Good luck!

 

Anyone know for sure about the upside down stamping on the block? Dustin, Damon [I single you out cause I know you are both building b18b/a's too], are your letters upside down too? I may just get the ACL bearings earl speaks of. He said they will save $100.

 

up again...upside down letters????

 

Where do you get the ACL bearings?

Thanks
Ben

 

earl said you could get them from benson. The people that make the sleeves. I do not have any contact info though.