Diagram of shock tower plugs...
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From: CALIFORNIA
Diagram of shock tower plugs...
i have a 94 hatch, soon to drop in 95 gs-r motor. i will be using 95 gs-r engine harness to the shock tower plugs. does anybody have a diagram of the shock tower plugs and pins? like where the VTEC solenoid, pressure switch, and knock sensor would be? i went to the junk yard over the weekend and cut up the plugs but i need to know the location of these in the shock tower plugs..
TIA
TIA
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From: Raleigh, NC
Re: Diagram of shock tower plugs... (B_Cruz)
I've never seen such a thing...
I've seen instructions like the ones already posted for you where it tells you what wire goes to what socket on the ECU. Honestly, this is the best thing to work with. If you don't know where the VTEC solenoid is, then it's to your advantage to figure it out. Knowing that you need to run the knock sensor to D3, it's not that hard to look up a wire color in the Helms manual.
Once upon a time, someone posted this information:
I thought it was great, but I had a lot of problems with it. The wire colors didn't seem to match up and I just got confused. I scrapped this, went to the Helms and got everything right the first time.
I'm sure it's possible for someone to go to their car and diagram everything for you, but I'm not sure they'd be doing you any favors.
I've seen instructions like the ones already posted for you where it tells you what wire goes to what socket on the ECU. Honestly, this is the best thing to work with. If you don't know where the VTEC solenoid is, then it's to your advantage to figure it out. Knowing that you need to run the knock sensor to D3, it's not that hard to look up a wire color in the Helms manual.
Once upon a time, someone posted this information:
You will have to run a D3-knock sensor,
A17-intake air butterfly solenoid valve signal,
and A20-EVAP purge solenoid valve (if you need to clear smog/care about the environment).
If you don't have VTEC:
D6-VTEC pressure switch and
A4-VTEC solenoid valve.
The knock sensor will have to be actually wired from the ECU (D3 pin) to the shielded red/blu wire on the OBD-II engine harness. Use shielded wire to minimize noise. It may be blu/yel on your EG car harness.
The pink/blu wire on the engine harness (I don't know the pin) needs to go to the A17 pin of the ECU for the IAB. It may be lt grn on your EG.
The red wire on the engine harness (I don't know the pin) needs to go to the A20 pin of the ECU for the EVAP purge control solenoid valve. It will also be red on your EG.
D6 on your ECU needs to go to the blu/blk wire on your harness for the VTEC pressure switch. If you have a car with VTEC wired, it may be colored orn/blu.
A4 on your ECU needs to go to the grn/yel wire on your harness for the VTEC solenoid valve. If you have a car with VTEC wired, it may be colored orn/wht.
A17-intake air butterfly solenoid valve signal,
and A20-EVAP purge solenoid valve (if you need to clear smog/care about the environment).
If you don't have VTEC:
D6-VTEC pressure switch and
A4-VTEC solenoid valve.
The knock sensor will have to be actually wired from the ECU (D3 pin) to the shielded red/blu wire on the OBD-II engine harness. Use shielded wire to minimize noise. It may be blu/yel on your EG car harness.
The pink/blu wire on the engine harness (I don't know the pin) needs to go to the A17 pin of the ECU for the IAB. It may be lt grn on your EG.
The red wire on the engine harness (I don't know the pin) needs to go to the A20 pin of the ECU for the EVAP purge control solenoid valve. It will also be red on your EG.
D6 on your ECU needs to go to the blu/blk wire on your harness for the VTEC pressure switch. If you have a car with VTEC wired, it may be colored orn/blu.
A4 on your ECU needs to go to the grn/yel wire on your harness for the VTEC solenoid valve. If you have a car with VTEC wired, it may be colored orn/wht.
I'm sure it's possible for someone to go to their car and diagram everything for you, but I'm not sure they'd be doing you any favors.
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From: Washington, DC, US
Re: Diagram of shock tower plugs... (JeffS)
Agreed,
The most sucessfull swaps in my opinion are those done by people who have studied the wiring diagrams and then the ACTUAL car. Thats what I did and everything works.
One thing that helps (it helped me a lot) is to photocopy the wiring diagrams and then trace the wires using a highlighter. You should also confirm all the wires using a circuit tester. A length of wire with some small aligator clips (roach clips for those who indulge) is also very usefull for tracing circuits.
I know that it seems like a hell of a lot of work and most people would rather just be told what wires are what but honestly, the best way to learn is to get your hands dirty and study the actual systems themselvs. It will give you a great understanding of how the car is put together and a sense of confidence that YOU can fix anything if something goes wrong. Electrons arn't as scary as they pretend to be.
Mike
The most sucessfull swaps in my opinion are those done by people who have studied the wiring diagrams and then the ACTUAL car. Thats what I did and everything works.
One thing that helps (it helped me a lot) is to photocopy the wiring diagrams and then trace the wires using a highlighter. You should also confirm all the wires using a circuit tester. A length of wire with some small aligator clips (roach clips for those who indulge) is also very usefull for tracing circuits.
I know that it seems like a hell of a lot of work and most people would rather just be told what wires are what but honestly, the best way to learn is to get your hands dirty and study the actual systems themselvs. It will give you a great understanding of how the car is put together and a sense of confidence that YOU can fix anything if something goes wrong. Electrons arn't as scary as they pretend to be.
Mike
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