i've been turboed for about a month now and my car is all of a sudden overheating when i boost. it doesnt happen right away, but it creeps up after a while.. the motor is D16Y8 fully built except sleeves.. i have a cometic headgasket.. new thermostat...the coolant overflow jug always seems to be full of antifreeze after it overheats.. i think it might be due to the car having the same stock single row radiator that came on the 96 honda civics. does anyone have any idea wut might be wrong..?

 

need more info on your setup, how much psi, use arp studs? FMIC blocking part of the air to your radiator? check your coolant for traces of oil, and white smoke from your exhaust?

 

head lifting owns you.. its a common problem on d series engines.

How much boost you running?
the single core rad will also have something to do..there is now too much heat under your hoos and it could be heat soaking

 

i'm using APR headstuds and the car isnt smoking at all.. the intercooler is kind of blocking the radiator..and there is no oil in the coolant.. i'm running around 8psi

 

so how do i stop the head from lifting.. and is the headgasket bad?

 

then try to insulate your piping(Downpipe) with heat wrap and see if that helps. I know that in my setup it helped a lot to reduce undehood temps..

If that doesnt helps then i would upgrade the radiator next with a good push/pul fan..

 

use the oem head gasket. what do you have your arp head studs torqued to?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vilfranche &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so how do i stop the head from lifting.. and is the headgasket bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>
if the head is lifting and the car has overheated, then there is a chance that your Head Gasket could be going bad or is bad already..

I dont know exactly know how to prevent the head lifting since it seems like its almost impossible on d series, but the ARP head studs torqued to specs should help(65lbs/ft of torque).. Also check that the block and head are both straight.

 

the headstuds are torqued down to 65 ft of torque.. i'm going to upgrade to a duel core aluminum radiator and use the heat wrap and see if that helps

 

I had a simular back in the day. what we doscivered one day on a dyno runwas that the water pump ws surging so much pressure and flow, that it was over powering the stock radiator end tanks and causing the car to overflow the over flow. then when the over flow startes spewing it pussed water right into the turbo intake pipe so water was being sucked into the motor that way.

to resolve my issue I purchases koyo racing radiator. it has the largest end tanks of any maker (racing version) and the core is about 1/4" thicker than the fluidyne.

I also installed a 16" 2500cfm thin fan and have never had an issue since.

do this, let the car cool off (may want to wait till morning when car was sitting all night.) pull the radiator cap and if oyu see the coolant is low, but the overflow is full, then i woudl imagine your havign simular issues.

also easier and cheaper thing, radiator cap can go bad. have you changed that out?

 

i had a cooling issue with my last setup. never had oil in the coolant, never had the overflow bottle boil over, didnt smoke...

i just figured it was because of my half rad. well i pulled the head to install a Cometic and ARPs for peace of mind, and what do i see? the stock HG had blown out and was protruding over the sleeve a little bit.

havent had a single heating issue with the new HG and studs

 

did you bleed the coolant? make sure and get all the air bubbles out of the system.

Also try some water wetter. Cheap and **** works.

Also heat wrap everything producing a lot of heat. Dump, DP, possibly manifold.

Bigger rad and fan and hook your fan up to a switch so you can turn it on as you please.

Head lifting issues usually arise from to much timming, ARPs do help though