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I got a “check engine” light, looking for some help.

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Old Oct 28, 2006 | 11:02 AM
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tietze's Avatar
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From: Cuyahoga Falls, Oh, us
Default I got a “check engine” light, looking for some help.

First of all, I’m pretty new to this stuff, so I’m probably missing something stupid. Don’t underestimate my ability to miss the obvious.
The car is a 1993 del sol si, (it had a D16Z6, P28 ecu.)
I recently swapped in a jdm B18C type r, used the P73 ecu that came with it, (and a obd2 to obd1 jumper), and only had to move one wire ; (The b18 had a knock sensor, but no vtec pressure switch, luckily the d16 had a vtec PS, but no KS.) I was amazed that it fired right up without a check engine light. The thing runs Fantastic!!! Anyhow……fast fwd to now.
I had hoped to go to the P28 ecu with a basemap for the b18c-r engine, including launch control, CEL shiftlight, etc..
I just got a Phearable “DIY USDM obd1 ecu chipping kit with a phearable.net 28 pin eprom chip programmed for your vehicle setup.”, and installed it in the P28 ecu. I’m not too bad at soldering, I was able to de-solder the component locations without lifting any lands or traces, and installed the chip, socket, resistor, jumper and 2 caps.
Then I disconnected the car battery negative terminal, removed the P73 and jumper, installed the chipped P28.
At this point I knew I had a KS routed to D3 of the ecu, and no vtec PS routed to D6 of the ecu, but decided to try it anyhow. Then I re-connected the battery. The car started, but had a check engine light and ran poorly. I understand that with a CEL, I’m probably in limp mode.
In fact, when I turn the key to the ON position, (not starting the engine), the CEL goes on for a few seconds, (good, I think), then goes out for 4 seconds, (good!), then goes back on, and stays on. (not good)
I tried removing the wire from the knock sensor, no help.
What is frustrating is that I cannot seem to “pull the code” by jumping the service connector wires. The CEL just goes on as I described even with a paper clip in the service connector?!?
This engine has no vtec pressure switch. Does the p28 need to “see it”, or does the program in the prom ignore it? I see that the Vtec switch on the old engine is “normally closed”, putting a ground to D6. Should I try grounding D6 at the ecu?
Also, how can I confirm that the prom has been “burned”?

Fortunately, I can go right back to the p73 and have no CEL and it runs great.
Any help would be appriciated.
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