it wont let me rev past 6,000rpms and this has never happened b4...ive had my 00' si for a year and its the first time its done it.

 

So, is your Check Engine Light on?

 

Yes my check engine light is on..

 

Try to short special diagnostic plug and chek out error code. And you will know what it is.

 

i did get it checked at autozone(bad idea i know)and was told it was something with my CAI filter but i cleaned it and still n0thing...

 

recheck it, ask them to clean errors, and try driving. If check will appear again - check error code again. Many reasons for that to get diagnose via Internet.
Oil pressure, vtec solenoid fails...

 

ok thanx br0.

 

ok im having the same problem.. i can almost promis you its the computer.. un plug that bad boy and replug it in. drive around, it should last a while,if that alows you to run vtec then its the computer. if not check the vtec cylenoid (spelled wrong) and the vtec pump.. hey auto zone.....who cares its a place with the **** you need. ohhh yeah MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT COMPUTER FOR UR CAR!!! lol

three things that make vtec work (correct me if im wrong)

1-oil pressure--let the car worm up before you get to crazy
2- temp-if its really ******* hot it wont run like it should
3-and the rev-if you dont shift at certin times it wont work like it should. if you go from driven like an old lady to speed racer then you may have a problem..its all about how you shift.

 

vtec pump... hahahahahahahaha

 

ehhh what ever i cant remember the name of it so bite me

 

Check for engine codes.
Fix them.
Unplug your battery terminal for 5 minutes, then replug it.
Turn on your car and let it sit for 10 minutes (do not touch throttle)
This will reset your ECU and clear the codes that you fixed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK9KiNG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did get it checked at autozone(bad idea i know)and was told it was something with my CAI filter but i cleaned it and still n0thing...</TD></TR></TABLE> just check the code yourself, all you need is a paper clip... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1171263

 

check code yourself, autozone monkeys are assbags, then trouble shoot the code per your helms or HT

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by camp_kill_yourself &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok im having the same problem.. i can almost promis you its the computer.. un plug that bad boy and replug it in. drive around, it should last a while,if that alows you to run vtec then its the computer. if not check the vtec cylenoid (spelled wrong) and the vtec pump.. hey auto zone.....who cares its a place with the **** you need. ohhh yeah MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT COMPUTER FOR UR CAR!!! lol

three things that make vtec work (correct me if im wrong)

1-oil pressure--let the car worm up before you get to crazy
2- temp-if its really ******* hot it wont run like it should
3-and the rev-if you dont shift at certin times it wont work like it should. if you go from driven like an old lady to speed racer then you may have a problem..its all about how you shift.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you forgot that you need your VSS to be working as well, it only engages at a threshold speed, don't expect your vtec to kick in just reving it in neutral, honda's are a little smarter than that!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by camp_kill_yourself &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1-oil pressure--let the car worm up before you get to crazy
2- temp-if its really ******* hot it wont run like it should
3-and the rev-if you dont shift at certin times it wont work like it should. if you go from driven like an old lady to speed racer then you may have a problem..its all about how you shift.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1 - wrong. Oil pressure and temp are related but not as far as VTEC kicking in is concerned. Coolant temp comes into play. You also need a certain oil pressure in order for VTEC to kick in. But warming up the engine won't make oil temp come up. It'll actually do the opposite.

2 - wrong. Outside temp doesn't matter. And what does "run like it should" mean?

3 - wrong again. How you shift also has nothing to do with it. If you go from shifting at 3K RPM in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear, then all of the sudden you punch it in 4th, your car won't care. As long as it's at the proper temp, has enough oil pressure, and the engine has a load on it, VTEC will try to kick in. at it's set RPM point (around 5500 for a B16).

I highly suggest you do some research before spreading this nonsense of yours in the future.

 

Also, to the OP, your car is in what's called LIMP MODE. Pull your negative battery cable for a couple of minutes and reconnect. If the check engine light is gone, congrats. If not, check the sticky threaqd on the top of this forum on how to diagnose your error codes.

 

obd-2 sucks. if you throw a code, the ecu is gonna go into limp mode and not let you run to redline because it thinks the motor will get damaged. pulling the battery is not gonna help because once the ecu detects the malfunction again, it wil throw the code again. get the codes checked out and fix the problem before clearing the code

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IslandSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, to the OP, your car is in what's called LIMP MODE. Pull your negative battery cable for a couple of minutes and reconnect. If the check engine light is gone, congrats. If not, check the sticky threaqd on the top of this forum on how to diagnose your error codes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is just what i was told,