I have a 2000 civic EX and i want to put in a better engine. I either wanted to put in either a USDM B18c1 or B18c5 and i wanted to know whats a better engine for turbo charging.

 

b18b
ls integra or
b20z
crx truck motor

 

well do you plan on sleeving, pistons,rods?

 

i was most likely going to change the pistons and rods, not sure about the sleeving or what type of pistons and rods.

 

If you wanna fun boost. And alot of it. Run a b18b1 integra ls motor. They can handle a good amount of boost on stock internals. Unless you feel like spending money. And building a v-tec motor to handle the boost.
But i am in the process of doing a b18b1 integra ls swap with a 16g Turbo and run about 21 psi daily.

 

Like the icon says, im new to all of this being 18 with my first civic. My question is should'nt the Gsr or the type R engine be a better engine or is there something im missing since there both Vtecs and the ls is a non-vtec?

 

ok with v-tec. you boost would have to be set lower. Because you have higher compression on a v-tec motor. On a non-vtec motor it has lower compression. When you are turbo charging an engine. The lower the compression the better. b18b1 is a good turbo motor so is a b20. But if you wanna go all motor then go b18c.

 

thanks wicked that helped me out alot.

 

No problem bro thats what we are here for. If you have any any more questions about the turbo install or about turbo's hit me up man.

 

Wicked is right - i was always told VTEC + Boost = you better have money, and Non-VTEC + Boost = inexpensive (figuratively) fun

 

Personally I would go b18 or a K20, it depends on how much you want to spend.

 

K20 takes alot of money LOL... And it is v-tec he wants boost. Read what i said before. LOL.. and what axtran wrote. It makes since just read it.

 

Go with the GSR motor. And you can turbo high-commpression motors, you just have to tune then well. Jojo Callos ran a 10.5 c/r on his hatch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pipkin87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was most likely going to change the pistons and rods, not sure about the sleeving or what type of pistons and rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pistons and rods alone won't help with running boost. Reinforcing the block, sleeving, ported and polished, rings, full package on the block done by someone with a lot of experience, as usually a block build won't be touched for a while so it has to be done right.

You have to remember if you're going boost, its either all the way or not. You can't just put pistons and then run 12 psi as opposed to 9. If any part of your block is still stock then you have to stick with stock boost, that's just how it is.

Half *** block jobs + gradually raising the boost is a quick way to end up with a rod popping through your block.

As far as VTEC + boost, honestly VTEC having higher compression means you'll get more HP per psi of boost than you would with lower compression, but it's all a balance scale. It's more like, what would be faster between a GSR motor with 6 psi or a B18 non vtec with 9 psi. The truth is, the B18 Non VTEC might be slightly faster, but will also be considerably cheaper.

Remember that with projects like this, boost requires more TLC than all motor.

My honest suggestion to you, being 18 and inexperienced is to start small. Get a B16A and beat that up a bit but learn to take care of it. Learn about maintenance checks, wear and tear, the right time to run it hard. Within your first year of driving hard you'll learn that there are sacrifices you have to make.

You can't just drive hard, you have to be extra careful and you have to do regular things a lot sooner and more cautiously. You can change the oil on a beater every 4000 miles and use crappy oil and drive your car on low octane cheap-o gas and it will last 5-6 years. On a performance engine, 91 octane minimum (On DOHC VTEC's and on a boosted B18) and 2500 mile oil changes with the GOOD STUFF. No cheap oil or cheap gas because every little cut corner can cost you an engine.

In the performance world, you have to be careful of your investments because of this universal rule:
You will never get back what you paid.

A guy that invests 20,000 into his Civic will be lucky to get 12,500 for it. I've seen some 35,000 invested Civics with VERY clean/tasteful modifications sit on the market for 12,500 never getting scooped up.

I suggest you start small so you learn with little consequence how the performance world is, because it's not all pretty women, late nights and high revs like it's shown to be. There's a lot of time spent in the garage trying to figure out what's wrong. It's not a rock song and a 5 minute session either. I mean you'll literally be in your garage for 6-7 hours screaming cuss words at your engine because you can't figure out why it only starts and stays on for 5 minutes.

Good luck though, and I hope you take my advice and start small. Trust me, an LS swap with bolt ons or a B16A is a very very good upgrade over a stock motor and you'll have a lot of fun and won't be stumped on maintenance issues.

 

essenar has a very valid point. why do you think i have a d15b7 with 10 psi. Cause it runs great and it's not hurting anything. But like i said. If you want boost do a b18b1. And start your self with about 7-10 lbs of boost. No higher. Just to get the feel of it.

 

yeah i'd go D-series and boost - because you're bound to blow an engine, why not blow the cheap ones?

 

oh and to add-on - turbo takes more work than just the kit imo - timing cooling afterwards, changing oil frequent as hell (never want corking in your return line system, very very bad) and really trying to listen and maintain engine mechanics (the first sign of knocking, etc. YOU BAIL ON THE MOTOR BEFORE YOU BLOW IT)

 

would it be a better idea just to swap engines for now, get use to that and think about boost later down the line?