So I jacked up the car to take a look at my tranny mounts and find that the oil drain bolt is leaking a little and go to torque it down a turn or two. The bolt doesn't tighten and instead continues turning in typical stripped fashion. Dammit! The bolt doesn't turn all that freely; it takes a little bit of resistance and the crush washer is rotating with it.

My question is this? What gives first, the bolt or the pan itself. I'm guessing the pan because it's aluminum right?

Would it make sense to get it re-tapped or just install a new pan? I can't upgrade the oil pan because I don't think you can in DS and besides I don't track the car yet.

The worst thing is that the bolt won't back out at all.

Any suggestions?

 

First off, neither then pan nor the bolt are Aluminum, both are steel. That said... either one can strip out... the pan tends to go first. Your best bet is to drop the header, pull the tranny brace and drop the oilpan. Take it to a machine shop and they can easily helicoil/timesert the oildrain hole. Or I believe their are cheap kits from those 2 companies to do the repair yourself since it is more common than most.

As for the bolt being stuck in... try prying it while unbolting. Once the pan is off, try pushing it while unbolting it. Once off... try impacting it out while pulling/pushig it... if that doesn't work... drill it out, get a new one (cheap) and fix the threads on the pan.

 

Good luck with that.
Time for an oil change!?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zygspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good luck with that.
Time for an oil change!? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually it is. At the rate it's leaking, 1/4 qt. a day, I can just keep topping it off.

 

ahhh I hate those annoying types of problems. should be an easy fix though once the pan is removed. removing the pan is pain in the *** part.

 

there are some huge bolts they sell that u put on ur pan, and on the bolts there is a smaller bolt. its about $5. ive done it no leak. been 10 month now

 

don't be cheap with a type r just reach in the pocket and get an oil pan and plug.... since your taking that step might as weel upgrade with a magnetic plug and moroso pan or pan of your choice. Just some input from a newer owner of a type r

 

its a freakin drain plug there is no "don't be cheap", its there to stop the oil from coming out.

 

Just take the oil pan off and throw it away, its added wait anyways.

 

you might be able to get away with a spoon drain plug its alot longer then the stock one. it might be able to catch whatever threads in there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmperformance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't be cheap with a type r just reach in the pocket and get an oil pan and plug.... since your taking that step might as weel upgrade with a magnetic plug and moroso pan or pan of your choice. Just some input from a newer owner of a type r </TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't change the oil pan in DS autocross, I think. Besides, it's a '97 and I want to keep it all stock for a few reasons.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

I've seen drain plugs strip first, and I've seen oil pans strip first. Just depends.

Try to pry the bolt out with a screwdriver while you're unscrewing it...

 

Go to honda/acura ask for a olil drain bolt when that bring you the same one that you have ask for a longer one i dont no what car uses it it might be an oddysey,pilot or ridgline but i no that it's longer and put that one in it's longer so it might catch the threds that are not stript,This is only if you dont want to by a new pan and a new bolt. Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by r573 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go to honda/acura ask for a olil drain bolt when that bring you the same one that you have ask for a longer one i dont no what car uses it it might be an oddysey,pilot or ridgline but i no that it's longer and put that one in it's longer so it might catch the threds that are not stript,This is only if you dont want to by a new pan and a new bolt. Good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adiDAs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there are some huge bolts they sell that u put on ur pan, and on the bolts there is a smaller bolt. its about $5. ive done it no leak. been 10 month now</TD></TR></TABLE>

WTF over.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ebelp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've seen drain plugs strip first, and I've seen oil pans strip first. Just depends.

Try to pry the bolt out with a screwdriver while you're unscrewing it...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good suggestion, but there's no gap to wedge it in there. I talked to my mechanic and they'll retap it tomorrow and install a slightly larger bolt. Apparently, it's really common and she generalized the process as a $40 oil change instead of $20, even though I alway change my own oil. Maybe that's why I'm having problems.

 

i might suggest getting a new pan instead of getting threads rewelded. they usually like to reweld cause they can make more money. getting a new pan might just be 50 dollars more than the labor.

 

If you got a Mugen pan it'll look 100% like stock from the outside and doesn't offer any kind of benefit (performance-wise). If you plan on tracking the car, that's a good idea anyway, and while technically illegal, you won't be faster at all, and though I hate to say things like this, no one would ever know (or care if they did know).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Utilitarian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... it's really common and she generalized the process as a $40 oil change instead of $20, ...P </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmmmm!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you got a Mugen pan it'll look 100% like stock from the outside and doesn't offer any kind of benefit (performance-wise). If you plan on tracking the car, that's a good idea anyway, and while technically illegal, you won't be faster at all, and though I hate to say things like this, no one would ever know (or care if they did know).</TD></TR></TABLE>

so wut is the point? if it looks exactly the same and has no benefit? is the metal magnet?

 

the mugen pan has baffles inside to keep the oil at the pick up.

 

Silicone the b#tch up and call it a day until you have money for a used oil pan.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hayabusa160 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> the mugen pan has baffles inside to keep the oil at the pick up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bingo. No benefit to autoxing, but on track it'll prevent oil starvation and the asploded motor that would result. B18C5s are notorious for needing them too.

 

If the threads are not completely jacked you can chase the threads and run a 92-95 Legend oil drain plug. It's a bit longer than the stock ITR drain plug. Otherwise replace the pan-it comes with a new drain plug too.

 

If you decide to replace the pan with a stock one, I do have a used one I'll let go for cheap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hayabusa160 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> the mugen pan has baffles inside to keep the oil at the pick up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

true that, gotta keep it in mind for later.