I don't understand when people refer to like "i'm running 8psi, or 9 psi or so on..." and some people say "i'm running 12lbs of boost and so on..." What's the different and when you use a Boost Gauge, usually the boost gauge reads from 0-30PSI what's the Good PSI maximum read for a Honda Accord 4cyl 2.3L using a T3/T4 Turbo?? Thanks for comments.

P.S Also one some Boost Gauge, it has Boost and Vacuum Pressure measurement, but there's only one Pointer. how can you read VAcuum pressure and boost at the same time? For example, let's say the Boost Gauge is shoing 7PSI you're running, at that time, how do you know what Vacuum measurement you're running??

 

f23 with stock internals? i don't know about max, but usually around 7-8psi.

 

When someone says 12 lbs of boost they mean 12 psi, same thing. Usually when you hit double digits on an F22 you are asking for your ringlands to go out.

 

psi = pounds per square inch.

NA motors are always in vacuum. Think of it as negative pressure. Now add a turbo, which adds pressure... Positive pressure. Once boost builds, you are not longer in vacuum.

In other words, vacuum is like (-) negative boost.

 

Psi is as they said above... pounds per square inch, which is a measure of pressure units.

However just for reference 8 psi on one turbo (say a t25) is not the same as 8 psi on a different turbo (say a t3/4)... although the lbs of boost are the same, the volume of air each will flow at that said boost pressure is quite different. The larger compressor will push more volume or air mass.

 

Thanks. I learned something . So when i see the pointer points in Vacuum pressure, that means something's wrong with my Turbo,right? and thanks for letting me what's the max PSI i should be running for my Stock INternal Accord.

I'm buying me a manual boost Control instead of Apexi Controller or HKS boost controller. What do you guys think about manual?? Of course i believe Electronic controllers work better than manual but will it be okay to use manual/??

 

dont' spend another penny on it, seriously not to make you look bad but i don't want you to blew your motor by doing stupid stuff to it. i know you already spent some money on the turbo, now bring it to the pro. and have them dyno tune everything.

 

yeah id let the pros tune it. just incase something goes wrong and you end up with a worthless engine and turbo.

 

when you say Tuning..what are they going to do? Do i need to get me a Hondata or something for them to tune?? This is all i got for my turbo set up and let me know what other part i need to make it running right without damaging my engine..

T3/t4 XS Turbo
Intercooler and Pipings
38waste gates
Greddy Type S BOV
450cc Injectors
FMU
Manuel Boost Controller MBC
Gauges are: Boost, Air/Fuel, Oil Pressure

Am i missing anything else about my fuel system?? Some people say i need to get a Hondata and ask the shop to tune it ...i know it will replace my stock ECU computer and will able to handle the boost i'm running in my car. But i want to know what does it exactly do??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">psi = pounds per square inch.

NA motors are always in vacuum. Think of it as negative pressure. Now add a turbo, which adds pressure... Positive pressure. Once boost builds, you are not longer in vacuum.

In other words, vacuum is like (-) negative boost.</TD></TR></TABLE>
get this man a

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azndude1983 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So when i see the pointer points in Vacuum pressure, that means something's wrong with my Turbo,right? </TD></TR></TABLE>
ummm NO. it means you're not in boost. doesn't mean anything is wrong. at idle you'll always be in vacuum.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azndude1983 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you say Tuning..what are they going to do? Do i need to get me a Hondata or something for them to tune?? </TD></TR></TABLE>
YES you need some sort of fuel management. If you install those 450s on your stock ECU the car won't even run worth a **** because the computer won't know what to do with them.

Tuning = adjusting ignition timing and air fuel ratios for the new conditions you are placing the motor in (ie: boost). Your car doesn't know what the hell to do w/ positive manifold pressure otherwise.

Sounds like you need to do some more research before you start installing parts.

 

jeeze i work on cars all the time and even i learned some shyt

 

i know that's why i'm asking. I've installed them but i'm not running the car until i'm 100% sure it is safe and doesn't damage my engine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azndude1983 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know that's why i'm asking. I've installed them but i'm not running the car until i'm 100% sure it is safe and doesn't damage my engine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

good thinking, most of the yound kid just assume turbo is a plug and play thing. without proper tunning it's more like a plug and pray thing.(no, bomex god will not give a flying f*ck)

you are also missing a 255inline fuel pump

FMU will not cut it, please do it right the first time and it will save you alot of money. FMU is pretty bad, i used to had one with my VAFC hack and it was well..just bad.

like many of us said, all the hardware wouldn't do you any good without getting all the software/tuning done right

 

did you upgraded with bigger injectors? some people thought FMU is made for use with stock injectors. Well, i know this guy who had an accord and been running for the past 2 years at 9PSI set up using No fuel Pump (I heard 6gen Accord has big Fuel Pump by the way so no need to chage it unless you're running 12+_psi) with 450cc DSM, Wideband, FMU, and S-AFC2 (changed OBD2-OBD1). He said works great. But i'm keeping my OBD2 using V-AFC 2 instead of S-AFC 2 since VAFC is made for VTEC engine. Beside, as of right now i'm planning to run 6 or 7 PSI only. I don't thin it's gonna be a problem

 

Damn dude.

 

damn what?

 

PSI = pounds per square inch

so PSI essentially = lbs, when your talkin turbo slang i guess

 

My bro Azndude1983 has everything setup except something to control fuel and get an accurate O2 reading. He just needs a cheap way to bump the fuel (V-AFC II or S-AFC II would be good enough) and an in-car wideband O2. Just tune it on the street. Why bother taking it to a pro?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by z06 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My bro Azndude1983 has everything setup except something to control fuel and get an accurate O2 reading. He just needs a cheap way to bump the fuel (V-AFC II or S-AFC II would be good enough) and an in-car wideband O2. Just tune it on the street. Why bother taking it to a pro?</TD></TR></TABLE>

FMU's are essentially a band-aid fix. Many people have used a VAFC or SAFC to help fine-tune the car, but there will still be issues of stumbling, rough transitions into boost, partial throttle woes... Take it from 'iam7head', who used to run that setup... it's not good. Another big issue is timing. With the current setup (and with an AFC) he would have no way to control timing.

And if he goes the way of the AFC hack and 450cc DSM's, his timing is going to be all out of whack.

Bottom line is, we're trying to give him advice that will keep the engine running for longest time possible. If he wants to just get a wideband and tune just the fuel and ignore timing, be my guest. Just don't come back complaining that the motor didn't last.

 

did you buy oil lines? you need a feed and return. i didnt see it in your list

 

the AFC hack makes your pistons smile!

 

Haha, I was waiting for you to post that pic...

 

that's a different pic

 

Yeah, it is, isn't it? The other one had the American flag in the background...

Oh, notoriousB, (not to thread jack) how did you resolve the brake problem you had before?

 

yep I sure did. sending you IM now.