Im going to change/replace my front rotors on my 96 coupe... do you guys think those kragen rotors for 24$ will work? i was thinking of getting some brembo blanks.. but will it make a differnce... i talked to my friends brother who works at a shop. he told me if im not going to be racing the kragen ones should be fine..

anyone have any experince with these? do you think they warp easily? or should i go for another brand? should i get somthing else?

 

brembo will work just fine........Do you know all the scoop on replacing ( hub over rotor )rotors ??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda-Master &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">brembo will work just fine........Do you know all the scoop on replacing ( hub over rotor )rotors ??</TD></TR></TABLE>

P.I.T.A. pretty much sums up all about H&gt;O&gt;R

make sure when you get the kragen disk with the warranty.

the autozone special disk are known for wrapping for no reason, but they have warranty for it. No personal experience tho'.

i would get brembo just for the peace of mind

 

ic ic.... ist there a way to convert to rotor over hub? i think i read that sumwhere... and how hard is it to replace the rotors myself anyspecial tools?

thanx in advance

 

I just did this and it wasn't a p.i.t.a. for me. Unless you wanted to use the bearings that were on the car I imagine that would suck.

 

I personally would spend a little extra on some good rotors for the front, because pulling them off is a total bitch.

I'd much rather replace a set of cheaper pads every so often then a set of rotors.

 

icic thanx for the help guys.. uhm as for thsoe bearing your talking about how much do they cost? can you use the old ones?

and can anyone give me some steps on how to do this? do i need any special tools?

 

Total pain in the *** to get the Bearings out. If I were you I'd replace them while I was in there.

Off the top of my head I think I paid 60$ each, but I was working at Honda at the time, so I'm not 100% sure what retail is.

-You actually need to pull the whole steering knuckle off.

-Then the most effective way to get the bearing out is to place the knuckle in a vice.

-Get a big hammer with a rounded head (ballpeen hammer will work) and get another hammer to wail on that one.

-Place the rounded hammer onto the bearing(it will kind of settle into it due to the rounded hammer).

-Find some safety glasses and put them on.

-Start wailing on the hammer that is placed on the bearing with your other, preferably bigger hammer.

-It will come out after a little bit hard work.

 

geez i hope the haynes manaul will have this in it it havent checked yet?... just wondering why cant i use the old bearings?

 

You can also use socket to hit the bearing out. You just set the socket on top of the bearing and hit it, but the socket has to be like 1 1/4" and not everybody has that big of a socket. The hammer method will work just as well.

 

*L* one time I was using that method to get a bearing out*not on a honda*And it just knocked the whole center section of the bearing out and I was left with just the outer ring in the hub.

 

ok... pretty sure that on the 94-97 accord ex (with disks) the front are Rotor over Hub and the rears are Hub over Rotor.......

you should be fine on the front end....

 

I just replaced mine with 99 cl 3.0 rotors and calipers and it stops a hell of alot better. For the new wheel bearings spending the $100 for new ones is alot better than trying to beat them out of the knuckle. First you will have to get new front hubs from a 99 Cl 2.3 (3.0 won't work) and then press the new bearings into the new hubs by a vice or 2 c clamps. Next loosen the axle nut on your car and push the axle back enough so you can see the 4 bolts holding on the accord hub. Then take a 12mm 45* offset wrench (the only kind that will allow you to get a good grip and not hit anything) and remove the 4 bolts. When the bolts are removed then you will need that Big Hammer and a long pry bar to get the old hubs off. Once you got the olds hubs offf then install the new hubs w/ new bearings and use some c clamps or the bolts to pull the new hub onto the knuckle (make sure to clean the old rust off of the knuckle where the hubs go as this will make it easier to install). When the hubs are installed and torqued down then add rotors from a 99 cl 2.3 (if you want to use your stock calipers) or from 3.0 and get better stopping power (11.2" rotor). The only thing is if you get the bigger rotors you will have to get the 3.0 calipers with their brackets (i paid $40 on feebay) and you will need to have 15" stock alloy rims or aftermarket (the 95 EX wheels fit perfect cuz thats what I have). So the choice is your if you just want rotor over hub then your looking at 300 max if you want bigger brakes then 450 max if you already have the rims. Of course if you get new calipers than you have to bleed the brakes. Any more ?'s PM me.

 

your thinking is backwards front is H/O/R and the rear is R/O/H

 

Search and you'll find a lot of info on replacing the front brakes on a 90-97 Accord. But here are some links that you may find helpful.

90-97 Accord Front Brake Tutorial

Rotor-Over-Hub Conversion

and a few others that may be of some help...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1432145
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1060259
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1461095

Just try searching under the recent and Achived threads using "front brake", "front brakes", "Front rotor", ect. You'll find many threads to read through. You'll find what worked for some people and what didn't for others. Take everything into account so when you go to do the job your well prepared.

Also, as for the bearing. If you can reuse the old one or if you need a new one... You should only have to replace the current one if it is messed up or if you remove the hub from the bearing (some people have gotten away with putting the hub back in but it's recommended to replace the bearing once the hub is removed). If you remove the 4 bolts on the back of the knuckle, like described in some of the links above, the hub/rotor/bearing assembly should drop away from the knuckle as long as it's not rusted in there. A couple wacks on the rotor may pop it free, but if it doesn't, then you may need to take it to a shop to have the bearing pressed out of the knuckle. Upon reassembly, make sure you clean and grease the hole in the knuckle where the bearing goes so the next time you need to take it apart it's not rusted in there.

Make sure you set aside plenty of time to do this job, that way your not rushed to complete it. Good luck

 

w0w thanx everyone great help

hah i tryed to search but i gues i wasnt thinking that day
i just searched the archives for "replacing rotors" and nuthing relevent showed.
i wasnt open minded that day... soo thanks for the help