Need advice.. rebuilt/newshortblock
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Need advice.. rebuilt/newshortblock
Im getting my car in a few days, rebuilt engine and new shortblocks *thanks acura*.
Anyhow, iv been reading to break it in gently the first 40-50kms and then just HIT IT, or even HIT it from the beginning...
then theres the wait 1000kms and then HIT it...
Uhm, if my rings were shot to **** and was burning 2litres of oil every 1000kms.. i think my best bet is the safest bet and wait awhile longer?? lol..
any input ?
Anyhow, iv been reading to break it in gently the first 40-50kms and then just HIT IT, or even HIT it from the beginning...
then theres the wait 1000kms and then HIT it...
Uhm, if my rings were shot to **** and was burning 2litres of oil every 1000kms.. i think my best bet is the safest bet and wait awhile longer?? lol..
any input ?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,073
Likes: 1
From: The Dirty Hotness
Re: Need advice.. rebuilt/newshortblock (cabalistR)
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Just make sure the motor is up to operating temperature and all the fluids are topped up.
Just make sure the motor is up to operating temperature and all the fluids are topped up.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,073
Likes: 1
From: The Dirty Hotness
Re: (cabalistR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cabalistR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bah.. all my tech gurus are telln me to take it gently and let the bearings and rings seat themselves...
I think im ognna play it safe.. maybe this is why most of you burn oil like a ************
.. (i wasnt the 1st owner)</TD></TR></TABLE>Those techs are from yesteryear....
I find most of the oil consumption takes form in owners or prev. owners not warming up the car adequately beforehand.That and the stock PCV system is next to useless in VTEC....amongst other things like using bad air filters....
FSAE
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,495
Likes: 1
From: Drinking Beer, UT
Re: (RagingAngel)
The two most important things for breaking in your motor.
1) Keeping the heat DOWN, and by down I mean "normal".
2) Varying the load on the engine.
RPM's create heat from friction, so the longer you stay in the higher RPM's, the more heat buildup there is along the cylinder walls and pistons, which can cause the rings to seat incorrectly.
Always idle the motor for 15-25 minutes on the first startup. Do this to make sure fuel pressure and ignition timing are where they are suppose to be. You definately don't want to run rich during this time, washing the rings out with fuel will ruin the seating process, but the tuning does not have to be exact. A stock ECU on a stock motor, or a good basemap on a modified motor should work.
The idea is to vary the load on the engine by accelerating and decelerating (deccel by using engine braking!!), varying the RPM's as you do this. A higher gear is preferable, like 4th or 5th.
Use a LOW DETERGENT oil, like standard Castrol GTX (what I used to break-in my 2.0L). I changed my oil at 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, and after 1000, I started using synthetic. By 90 miles my compression was at 270 across the board using the techniques I described above.
You can also break-in a motor on the dyno. Upon first startup, idle the car for 15-25 minutes, change the oil, and upon next startup, do a few 1st through 5th gear pulls, idle the motor for 5-10 minutes, change the oil, rings will have seated properly. There is a flipside to this break-in process, you MUST be certain that the air-fuel ratio, ignition timing, (boost if applicable), is all tuned PERFECTLY. If you break-in the motor running too lean, the rings will have not seated properly due to the excessive heat. If you break-in the motor running too rich, you can wash the rings during the initial startup and idle, which will also cause the rings not to seat properly.
It is generally the easiest to perform the first technique, because your tuning does not have to be as precise, and you do not need access to a dyno. Plus it is much more convenient for a street car, because you would have to do the first startup at the dyno location otherwise.
1) Keeping the heat DOWN, and by down I mean "normal".
2) Varying the load on the engine.
RPM's create heat from friction, so the longer you stay in the higher RPM's, the more heat buildup there is along the cylinder walls and pistons, which can cause the rings to seat incorrectly.
Always idle the motor for 15-25 minutes on the first startup. Do this to make sure fuel pressure and ignition timing are where they are suppose to be. You definately don't want to run rich during this time, washing the rings out with fuel will ruin the seating process, but the tuning does not have to be exact. A stock ECU on a stock motor, or a good basemap on a modified motor should work.
The idea is to vary the load on the engine by accelerating and decelerating (deccel by using engine braking!!), varying the RPM's as you do this. A higher gear is preferable, like 4th or 5th.
Use a LOW DETERGENT oil, like standard Castrol GTX (what I used to break-in my 2.0L). I changed my oil at 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, and after 1000, I started using synthetic. By 90 miles my compression was at 270 across the board using the techniques I described above.
You can also break-in a motor on the dyno. Upon first startup, idle the car for 15-25 minutes, change the oil, and upon next startup, do a few 1st through 5th gear pulls, idle the motor for 5-10 minutes, change the oil, rings will have seated properly. There is a flipside to this break-in process, you MUST be certain that the air-fuel ratio, ignition timing, (boost if applicable), is all tuned PERFECTLY. If you break-in the motor running too lean, the rings will have not seated properly due to the excessive heat. If you break-in the motor running too rich, you can wash the rings during the initial startup and idle, which will also cause the rings not to seat properly.
It is generally the easiest to perform the first technique, because your tuning does not have to be as precise, and you do not need access to a dyno. Plus it is much more convenient for a street car, because you would have to do the first startup at the dyno location otherwise.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 4,514
Likes: 1
From: Vancity, b.c, CANADA
Re: (92TypeR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The idea is to vary the load on the engine by accelerating and decelerating (deccel by using engine braking!!), varying the RPM's as you do this. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Word.
That's some very good info, Marshall.
The idea is to vary the load on the engine by accelerating and decelerating (deccel by using engine braking!!), varying the RPM's as you do this. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Word.
That's some very good info, Marshall.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,112
Likes: 0
Re: (92TypeR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The two most important things for breaking in your motor.
1) Keeping the heat DOWN, and by down I mean "normal".
2) Varying the load on the engine.
RPM's create heat from friction, so the longer you stay in the higher RPM's, the more heat buildup there is along the cylinder walls and pistons, which can cause the rings to seat incorrectly.
Always idle the motor for 15-25 minutes on the first startup. Do this to make sure fuel pressure and ignition timing are where they are suppose to be. You definately don't want to run rich during this time, washing the rings out with fuel will ruin the seating process, but the tuning does not have to be exact. A stock ECU on a stock motor, or a good basemap on a modified motor should work.
The idea is to vary the load on the engine by accelerating and decelerating (deccel by using engine braking!!), varying the RPM's as you do this. A higher gear is preferable, like 4th or 5th.
Use a LOW DETERGENT oil, like standard Castrol GTX (what I used to break-in my 2.0L). I changed my oil at 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, and after 1000, I started using synthetic. By 90 miles my compression was at 270 across the board using the techniques I described above.
You can also break-in a motor on the dyno. Upon first startup, idle the car for 15-25 minutes, change the oil, and upon next startup, do a few 1st through 5th gear pulls, idle the motor for 5-10 minutes, change the oil, rings will have seated properly. There is a flipside to this break-in process, you MUST be certain that the air-fuel ratio, ignition timing, (boost if applicable), is all tuned PERFECTLY. If you break-in the motor running too lean, the rings will have not seated properly due to the excessive heat. If you break-in the motor running too rich, you can wash the rings during the initial startup and idle, which will also cause the rings not to seat properly.
It is generally the easiest to perform the first technique, because your tuning does not have to be as precise, and you do not need access to a dyno. Plus it is much more convenient for a street car, because you would have to do the first startup at the dyno location otherwise.</TD></TR></TABLE>'
i think mine was broken in similar to the way you described.. and i did have to change the oil at 500 and 1000.. i did take it easy at first and increased revs with milage.. after 1000 miles went back to retune and then started pushing it..
main thing is piston seals and valve seals thats if they were replaced. i don't know if boost helps to seal the rings but in my case thats what i have.
1) Keeping the heat DOWN, and by down I mean "normal".
2) Varying the load on the engine.
RPM's create heat from friction, so the longer you stay in the higher RPM's, the more heat buildup there is along the cylinder walls and pistons, which can cause the rings to seat incorrectly.
Always idle the motor for 15-25 minutes on the first startup. Do this to make sure fuel pressure and ignition timing are where they are suppose to be. You definately don't want to run rich during this time, washing the rings out with fuel will ruin the seating process, but the tuning does not have to be exact. A stock ECU on a stock motor, or a good basemap on a modified motor should work.
The idea is to vary the load on the engine by accelerating and decelerating (deccel by using engine braking!!), varying the RPM's as you do this. A higher gear is preferable, like 4th or 5th.
Use a LOW DETERGENT oil, like standard Castrol GTX (what I used to break-in my 2.0L). I changed my oil at 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, and after 1000, I started using synthetic. By 90 miles my compression was at 270 across the board using the techniques I described above.
You can also break-in a motor on the dyno. Upon first startup, idle the car for 15-25 minutes, change the oil, and upon next startup, do a few 1st through 5th gear pulls, idle the motor for 5-10 minutes, change the oil, rings will have seated properly. There is a flipside to this break-in process, you MUST be certain that the air-fuel ratio, ignition timing, (boost if applicable), is all tuned PERFECTLY. If you break-in the motor running too lean, the rings will have not seated properly due to the excessive heat. If you break-in the motor running too rich, you can wash the rings during the initial startup and idle, which will also cause the rings not to seat properly.
It is generally the easiest to perform the first technique, because your tuning does not have to be as precise, and you do not need access to a dyno. Plus it is much more convenient for a street car, because you would have to do the first startup at the dyno location otherwise.</TD></TR></TABLE>'
i think mine was broken in similar to the way you described.. and i did have to change the oil at 500 and 1000.. i did take it easy at first and increased revs with milage.. after 1000 miles went back to retune and then started pushing it..
main thing is piston seals and valve seals thats if they were replaced. i don't know if boost helps to seal the rings but in my case thats what i have.
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