I've been burning off oil for a while now, but I thought it was because my valve seals needed to seat, but they should have done that by now. I've compression tested at 185psi across the board and I'm running 9.5:1 pistons and total seal rings. My valve seals are new.

How else could oil get into the combustion chamber? I talked to a guy that said if my VTEC oil press. sensor was bad it could cause it, but I need more info on this if, in fact, that could be the case.

any ideas?

Thanks!


Modified by westcoaststyle at 5:38 AM 10/14/2003

 

How many miles do you have on the new total seal rings? It can take up to 500 miles or more to seat the rings, and the rings are known to have an oil control issue. The seals seat the minute they are installed, no burn in time needed.
run the engine up to temp, then shut off the engine, pull a spark plug and see if it is wet with oil, that will tell you it is the rings or it could be the vtec like your buddy suggested.

 

Motor has like 3k+ miles on it now. Everything should be seated by now.

If it were VTEC, what could I check/fix to make it stop eating my oil?

Thanks for the reply!

 

i bet its the total seal rings, which are known to cause problems as far as oil consumption.

 

Ya? What rings do you recommend?

Why the fock to they call them Total Seal when they let oil through?

 

which brand motor oil are you using and what grade?

 

Mobile1 10W-30

 

I feel lame chiming in, but could the PCV valve play a role in this? Depending on how it's setup? And just so I can personally confirm, the direction of this thread is leaning towards rings, instead of valve seals?

-PHiZ

 

that's what the guy at NAPA said it could be. How would I test that?

 

Well, it looks like you got a breather filter attatched to the PCV, so you're not sucking oil into the TB that way. There is another extremity situation, that the PCV valve was engineered to correct, and that is.... Either too much pressure in valve cover, or you need some suction to do something or other yeah, I obviously not fully versed. I think it was good thinking also, to consider the vtec solenoid assembly, I'm going to check that out on a friends GSR.

-PHiZ

 

This is a little far-fetched but what about the valve guides?.. Doesn't too much clearance there allow oil to drop in past the intake valve?..

Since everyone else is guessing, I thought I'd throw one in for the hell of it..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I feel lame chiming in, but could the PCV valve play a role in this? Depending on how it's setup? And just so I can personally confirm, the direction of this thread is leaning towards rings, instead of valve seals?

-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>

Kinda sorta in a way.

IF you go to the totalseal site or call them, they can possibly help in your oil consumption. The reason is, the rings seal too good and you have to run the PCV (remember it means Positive Crankcase Ventilation). What's in you crankcase? Oil.
Somehow, Someway, the oil is getting sucked in through the only other place it could go beside the rings; the valve seals. They are bad, they just cant hold up to the big increase in vacuum.

Disclaimer: I may be wrong with all of this. Look into it more yourself to double check.

 

But, everything is new. I had the head completely rebuilt with the motor rebuild. Everything in the head is OEM honda. Still think it could be the guides?

Here's a motor pic if it helps anyone:


Motor specs:
Block
B18C1 Swap
JE/SRP 9.5:1 pistons
Eagle "H" rods
ARP rod bolts
Total Seal rings
Cylinders bored 0.0010 over
Cylinder Compression is 185 lb/psi in all cylinders
Honda green & brown rod bearings
Summit Racing main bearings
Balanced & blueprinted crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, clutch, and crank pulley
Unorthodox racing crank pulley
ACT XT-SS clutch
B&M short shifter w/ Energy Suspension bushings
Clutchmasters 7.5lb flywheel
Acid dipped block
New conversion kit (bottom end gasket set - Summit Racing)
Custom 2.5" piping back to a universal Apexi N1
Venom dipstick (polished)
DC Sports battery tie-down (polished)
Energy Suspension motor mount inserts
Prothane motor mount inserts

Head
Port matched on the intake side
3 angle valve job
Decked
ARP head studs & nuts
Acid dipped & glass bead blasted head
All new head gasket/seal set (OEM Honda)
OEM head gasket
JDM ITR red valve cover
DC Sports wire cover (polished)
Magnacor 10mm plug wires (red)
MSD Blaster external coil w/ distributor cap
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket

Fuel
AEM fuel rail (red)
AEM high flow fuel filter (silver)
RC 550cc injectors
GSR throttle cable and bracket
B&M adjustable fpr
B&M fuel pressure gauge

Ignition
MSD Blaster External Coil
Magnacor 10mm plug wires
NGK-R Spark Plugs

Turbo
MaxRev stainless steel manifold
MaxRev 2.5" downpipe
Garrett T3/T04E turbo
TiAL 35mm wastegate
Greddy Type 24 FMIC
Blitz Super Sound Dual Chamber BOV
Custom piping
Greddy Profec-B SpecII electronic boost controller

Engine Management
OBD1 P72 ECU
Hondata S200B EMS
GM 3 BAR MAP sensor (Hondata)

 

I'm pretty sure he fabricated his problem and started this thread, just so he could brag about his motor... heheeh...

Free Bump.

Hey, how about you answer my PM's for quotes dude, that'd be hella!

-PHiZ

 

if you want to know if it is the PCV valve just pull it off and shake it you should hear a rattle if you dont get a new one

 

I'll be out of town until Monday, but I'll check the PCV valve when I get home. Seems to be a pretty simple test so I'll start there.

Thanks everyone!