Which Lug Nuts?
Been trying to do some reasearch on some lug nuts and find ones that will stand up to the abuse the OEM ones have taken which includes around 20+ wheel changes per year. From what I'm seeing, if I want to leave them on for any prolonged period of time I want to make sure they're a closed design so that eliminates a lot of what's on the market. These are going to be used for my Kosei K1's so I need the conical seat. Thus far it seems like my choices are:
Closed:
Rays Engineering - $110
Mugen - $100
McGuard Spline Drive - $90
Open ended:
Buddy Club - $95
Daiyama - ???
Though I'm open to more suggestions. The main factor has to be durability and reliability. So none of the Kyokugen or other lugs that have a track record of being annoying.
As a side note, has anyone had any problems with open ended lugs for daily driving? I've just heard that as dirt and other debris get into it they start to sieze which I don't want to deal with.
Closed:
Rays Engineering - $110
Mugen - $100
McGuard Spline Drive - $90
Open ended:
Buddy Club - $95
Daiyama - ???
Though I'm open to more suggestions. The main factor has to be durability and reliability. So none of the Kyokugen or other lugs that have a track record of being annoying.
As a side note, has anyone had any problems with open ended lugs for daily driving? I've just heard that as dirt and other debris get into it they start to sieze which I don't want to deal with.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamSlowdotOrg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The mcgard's I've had have been unblowuppable and fit in almost any wheel with the right taper. I rike. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Is the McGuard's you're using the spline drives? I have a normal set of locks that seem to work well.
RJ. I find a picture of the ones that you listed (they aren't loading). Are those just normal steel nuts like you'd buy @ Kragen?
I'd like something with locks if possible, but I don't think the K1's are in large demand... But since they're just going to be for street tires (STX) I might use them on the street so locks would be nice.
Is the McGuard's you're using the spline drives? I have a normal set of locks that seem to work well.
RJ. I find a picture of the ones that you listed (they aren't loading). Are those just normal steel nuts like you'd buy @ Kragen?
I'd like something with locks if possible, but I don't think the K1's are in large demand... But since they're just going to be for street tires (STX) I might use them on the street so locks would be nice.
We are using the McGard Spline drive ones and they are just fine. Got them at NTB for much less than $90. They do stand up to both hand and impact tools using a deepwell socket. Just make sure to have a spare adaptor. Also torquing them to much over 80ft lbs is not necessary for any of our Hondas.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jc836 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We are using the McGard Spline drive ones and they are just fine. Got them at NTB for much less than $90. They do stand up to both hand and impact tools using a deepwell socket. Just make sure to have a spare adaptor. Also torquing them to much over 80ft lbs is not necessary for any of our Hondas.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Really? I haven't found a single place that sells them w/ a lock for under $90 shipped. Closest I've found is summit.
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
But it looks like I'll be getting that and an extra spline socket.
Really? I haven't found a single place that sells them w/ a lock for under $90 shipped. Closest I've found is summit.
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
But it looks like I'll be getting that and an extra spline socket.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TimeRacer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd like something with locks if possible</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why? Its not going to stop anyone from stealing your wheels.
Why? Its not going to stop anyone from stealing your wheels.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why? Its not going to stop anyone from stealing your wheels.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Probably true, but at least I know I tried.
Though RJ are those lugs you shown the same stuff you get @ Kragen? Since I don't think I need quite that many unless there's truly considered disposable.
Probably true, but at least I know I tried.
Though RJ are those lugs you shown the same stuff you get @ Kragen? Since I don't think I need quite that many unless there's truly considered disposable.
I use the McGard spline drives on my race bucket.....more positive engagement because they go deeper and have that washer on the bottom on the nut...........no problem with on off either..........I change my wheels and tires on a race weekend approx. 10-12 times, 12-15 races a year......make sure you torque them to the proper specs.....!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jisu009 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow. I can't believe racers use those blingy nutz.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, even the older variety of racer uses some "bling" on their race car.....
With the Motegi Forged wheels I use, I have to use a spline drive nut to fit in the narrow opening........and after doing some research I found that they actually are much more secure and stronger than most of the other nuts out there, because of what I stated in my earlier post.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, even the older variety of racer uses some "bling" on their race car.....
With the Motegi Forged wheels I use, I have to use a spline drive nut to fit in the narrow opening........and after doing some research I found that they actually are much more secure and stronger than most of the other nuts out there, because of what I stated in my earlier post.
Hmm.. I just cut the ends of my closed end lug nuts off on a bandsaw and then cleaned up the sharp edges when I installed longer studs. I saved 2 bucks! Hehe. Actually I just needed the car to be able to roll that day but I could not justify $100 lug nuts. Seems silly but to each his own.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm.. I just cut the ends of my closed end lug nuts off on a bandsaw and then cleaned up the sharp edges when I installed longer studs. I saved 2 bucks! Hehe. Actually I just needed the car to be able to roll that day but I could not justify $100 lug nuts. Seems silly but to each his own.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, I was thinking the exact same thing last year. Then I bought some Team Dynamics wheels, along with some cheapo open ended lug nuts. However, the openings in the wheels are deep and narrow, and I couldn't get a grip on the damn lug nuts with a 19mm socket.
So I bit the damn bullet and bought some pimpy *** skunk2 "light weight" jobbies. I like them just fine. I can get a socket on them, and they stay on the wheel. Well, if I remember to tighten them down, but that's all whole different story right there...
yeah, I was thinking the exact same thing last year. Then I bought some Team Dynamics wheels, along with some cheapo open ended lug nuts. However, the openings in the wheels are deep and narrow, and I couldn't get a grip on the damn lug nuts with a 19mm socket.
So I bit the damn bullet and bought some pimpy *** skunk2 "light weight" jobbies. I like them just fine. I can get a socket on them, and they stay on the wheel. Well, if I remember to tighten them down, but that's all whole different story right there...
I'm using McGard and Buddy Club open-ended currently, and both are great. You should be able to get the BCs cheaper than that, PM Marc (BlueR).
Ya know, it's been about 3 years of track events on my Kyokugen lugs,
and I never had problems with them or the key. Maybe I'm just more
careful than most? I loosen them by hand though, and finish with the
cordless.
On another note: you want some Ti lugs.

http://hondamarketplace.com/zerothread?id=1453968
and I never had problems with them or the key. Maybe I'm just more
careful than most? I loosen them by hand though, and finish with the
cordless.
On another note: you want some Ti lugs.

http://hondamarketplace.com/zerothread?id=1453968
I had the Kyokugen lugs before the McGards, and had ALL kinds of problems with them loosening up. Like, within one session on track they'd loosen up. Not very confidence inspiring.
For a long time I have been using the AutoZone Lug nuts with Zero problems.
they have withstood many track events and NYC driving. And they only cost 0.79 each!
This winter I plan on getting new ones to be safe, I know they are not the lightest ones or the best looking but for the price they are Very hard to beat!
they have withstood many track events and NYC driving. And they only cost 0.79 each!
This winter I plan on getting new ones to be safe, I know they are not the lightest ones or the best looking but for the price they are Very hard to beat!
i have used a set of the closed end volk aluminum lug nuts on my street car, over 2 years and not had a problem, i have impacted them on and off with care and discretion and have been sure to torque them to the recommended specs.
It's nice knowing that if you cross thread it the lug is effed not the stud, however they seem to be showing some where so i will more then likely replace them soon
It's nice knowing that if you cross thread it the lug is effed not the stud, however they seem to be showing some where so i will more then likely replace them soon
i got some extended forged aluminum lugnuts from http://www.edgeracing.com i didnt see them on their website but if you call them they have them and only $40 for a whole set!! look exectly like skunks just no name on them they just say forged
FWIW, I use the aluminum jobbers that come with the Kazera KZ-M's from Tire Rack on the racecar. They have yet to show any wear, and you get at least one or two shots at cross threading them before you can screw up a stud, which is nice.
You should call tire rack and see how much they are, they come with the wheels so they might be super cheap. Or buy a new set of Kazeras, sell the wheels for 375 to somebody and you've got yourself a 25 dollar set of bling lugz.
You should call tire rack and see how much they are, they come with the wheels so they might be super cheap. Or buy a new set of Kazeras, sell the wheels for 375 to somebody and you've got yourself a 25 dollar set of bling lugz.
I use the rays nuts with the locks.
I haven't had an issue but they do start to come loose at the track after a 2-3 sessions. I just torque em back down, but I'm going to try steel nuts and see if they stay torqued down better.
The finish wears off.... but I don't care about it. I'm happy with em.
I haven't had an issue but they do start to come loose at the track after a 2-3 sessions. I just torque em back down, but I'm going to try steel nuts and see if they stay torqued down better.
The finish wears off.... but I don't care about it. I'm happy with em.
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