What are the typical gains one should expect from a good PnP on an F23 Head? Mods would include simple bolt-ons, I/H/E, etc. Larger TB and port match? And finally, with an N/A street cam?

 

I dont know what you'd expect, but FYI, get an SAFC or VAFC, you'll see more gains out of the better flowing head if you mix the fuel better

 

Well my ECU has already been tuned a bit, though I do intend to swap it for AEM's EMS.

 

AEM EMS even better, haha, didnt think it would be worth the 1200 without boost but that's the best option

 

Well, after watching the trends, I'm pretty sure i can snag one for $6-700. Even though I'm working on a motor build, boost isin't out of the question for down the road...

 

you should see a decent increase

if you increase flow rates in the ITM and the head, and have a more agressive cam, you're gonna need it to flow out just as well as it flew in -aka you need a good header...frankly the DC or Greddy headers dont really make the grade as "a good header".....even though the runners are equal length, and wider in diameter, the collector is smaller than you'd want...this is so it will bolt up to stock cats easier....

 

So what are my options for a header? Does anyone have some general figures for the increase? I'm suspecting 8whp from a cam, maybe 8-10 from bored TB, polished/port matched ITM and head. Do these sound about right?

 

I'd say more between 4-6 for the throttle body, esp if untuned. Not many people have done this so you'll be kinda on your own I suspect...

 

Oh, I meant the TB, polished ITM, and head for 8-10. Think thats on the low side? high side? I would love to dyno each piece and see the results, but at $25-30 per run, or $130/hour, that's alot of money to be spent elsewhere. Especially with the install time.

 

With all that you'll be seeing at least 10whp, properly tuned i'd say something like 12-15.

If youre using AEM EMS, it would be crazy not to sit on a dyno for an hour or two to get it absolutely perfect, or why bother getting it

 

Yeah, I'd like to get each mod dyno'd separately, then I would purchase a couple hours of dyno time to tune it all in.

 

I would be very interested in seeing dyno before and after each piece is installed, mabye others such as myself could donate to a paypal acct. Kinda like you had setup when there was the JET controversy...but I would really like to see these gains....also, if and when you got the EMS, I would love to take the flashed ecu, off your hands, and mabye your old header, if you got another....

Chris

 

That all sounds great. But first, I need to get these parts! I would start with the TB and Jet ECU. Then PnP ITM and head. Then possibly the header (if i get enought info about replacing it). After everthing was done, I'd like to throw in the EMS and see what improvements it can make where JET left off.

All of this will take time and money, both of which I'm short on right now. The TB should be easy. Hopefully the PnP could be done in December, and I can't wait to get my hands on the EMS, even if it is the last mod to go on. Overall, I'd like to have all of these completed by the end of this year. Between parts, when the dyno runs come up, I might bump thread to see if anyone else is interested enough to make donations.

 

I've got a friend in Ohio with a 6G Accord. A bored out TB, and P&P IM are on his car right now. He has a Gude cam, and P&P head sitting in his garage just waiting to be installed. Besides these mods, he has a few bolt-ons, and nitrous.

From what he told me, the bored TB did yield a small power gain, but if you punch it a lot, you'll just notice your gas gauge drop like crazy. The IM gave off better gains throughout the powerband, but he knows the head, and cam will be the ultimate factor after they finally go in.

I still haven't gotten a reply from JET about using either a V-AFC, or an S-AFC to improve tuning. It'd be nice to know if JET's settings would be reset.

There aren't many good headers available for our cars. You've got DC, Kamikaze, Vibrant (not sure of the availability, then the no-name brand ones.

A Kamikaze header comes with a 2.5" collector, which works very well with a nitrous, supercharged, or built N/A setup. Put it on a motor with anything else, and you're just asking for a disappointment.

Your best bet may be to mod your current header by just having a shop weld on a bigger collector. LDY KLLA did it to his DC ceramic header, and felt some good gains, believe it, or not.

 

Try giving them a call. 1-800-535-1161 I had to dig through people sometimes, but I eventually found someone who knew their stuff.

The only thing i'm concerned about with opening up the exhaust anymore is my back-pressure walkin out the door and my torque going with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AFAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only thing i'm concerned about with opening up the exhaust anymore is my back-pressure walkin out the door and my torque going with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree.

I'm going to be running 2.36" piping for my setup, and my friend will be swapping it out to 2.5" piping after his new setup goes in. Anything above that is just overkill, IMO.

Most boosted 6G Accord owners were/are using 2.25" piping, and still put up good numbers.

 

I just don't think my N/A 2.3 is going to be at the point where it needs anymore exhaust flow than is already available. I feel that back pressure is still on my side.