D16 W/ Boost Head question
#1
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D16 W/ Boost Head question
I was wondering what kind of output would I see if I sent my head to get worked on. P&P, valve angle, etc. I know that I will spool faster but in terms of top end power what could I see on a D16 motor? I have read that its really not worth it being that the D16 head is already good for flow although I have not seen anyone with before and after dyno's and HP/TQ figures. I am at 210whp @ 10 PSI. Thoughts on this?
FYI: Nothing in the head will be replaced with aftermarket parts
FYI: Nothing in the head will be replaced with aftermarket parts
#2
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Re: D16 W/ Boost Head question
honestly it would be better to spend the money on pistons/rods/headstuds if you havent already done so. after that an intake manifold and cam would be done before any real portwork
#3
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Re: D16 W/ Boost Head question
blackeg - I am doing a belt replacement so I figure with everything off maybe its the time to send it out. It was questioned to me and did some research which lead me here to this question. I will be installing headstuds from ARP no matter what. I also did think about doing the bottom end as well but as of right now was just looking at the top "section" of the motor.
My main concern is at 210whp and 10 PSI is kind of the max for those rods in the d16 in terms of longevity and not having a motor go boom. I would think that opening the head up would only remove this "security" because the motor will be making more power even though the PSI remains the same on boost.
Thanks for the response...
My main concern is at 210whp and 10 PSI is kind of the max for those rods in the d16 in terms of longevity and not having a motor go boom. I would think that opening the head up would only remove this "security" because the motor will be making more power even though the PSI remains the same on boost.
Thanks for the response...
#4
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Re: D16 W/ Boost Head question
PSI is and always will be irrelevant for what you are asking. The gains To be had rely on the type of port job and/or the skill of the porter. The engine can only handle a certain amount of WHP regardless of PSI. The D-series stock rods aren't good for too much past your current setup. If you are dead set on sending the head out then do it. If there isn't a problem with the head/head-gasket then why take the head off? At those power levels head studs aren't needed. So either be prepared to start spending some money and upgrading the bottom end first or leave what you already have alone.
Unless you already understand that then, sorry.
Also, there is a lot more work and money involved to remove the head than just pulling a timing belt.
Unless you already understand that then, sorry.
Also, there is a lot more work and money involved to remove the head than just pulling a timing belt.
#5
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Re: D16 W/ Boost Head question
If you are going to be pushing the limit of the rods and replacing them then my advice is go with a vitara setup. They are soo cheap to do compared to what it can cost and have been proven to hold the power and go fast. I was 110% happy with mine a few years ago. **** I have a set of nib vitaras still I know im gonna do another one at some point in the future. Only advice if u go that route is to get the 75.5mm pistons so u can set the piston to wall to something reasonable like. 003 or. 004.
If not then get your new hg with arp's. Replace the tb and water pump and keep on rockin as it is currently
If not then get your new hg with arp's. Replace the tb and water pump and keep on rockin as it is currently
#6
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Re: D16 W/ Boost Head question
PSI is and always will be irrelevant for what you are asking. The gains To be had rely on the type of port job and/or the skill of the porter. The engine can only handle a certain amount of WHP regardless of PSI. The D-series stock rods aren't good for too much past your current setup. If you are dead set on sending the head out then do it. If there isn't a problem with the head/head-gasket then why take the head off? At those power levels head studs aren't needed. So either be prepared to start spending some money and upgrading the bottom end first or leave what you already have alone.
Unless you already understand that then, sorry.
Also, there is a lot more work and money involved to remove the head than just pulling a timing belt.
Unless you already understand that then, sorry.
Also, there is a lot more work and money involved to remove the head than just pulling a timing belt.
Nah no worries just figured I would ask. Well the head does not need to come off but with the belt being removed, the valve cover, etc, I figured while at it just remove it and be done with it. Then I thought about the rods and how once you hit 10 PSI and 210 whp you are at the max unless you rebuild the bottom of the motor, which I am not ready to do as of yet. Thanks for the info though.
I was thinking of changing the head gasket as well from OEM to a metal one. Again 130K miles original gasket on boost. Hence the ARP heads, sorry if I left that out or why it was confusing.
#7
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Re: D16 W/ Boost Head question
Good thinking about the TB. The water pump will be as that is a standard anytime you do a belt. Can you explain a bit more on the TB? Wouldn't that push the rods past that break point by allowing more air = more power correct? Sorry thinking out loud here but I think I am at the breaking point, no more power adders until rods right?
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#10
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Re: D16 W/ Boost Head question
Word, timing belt.
If u do upgrade the throttle body which isn't really necessary u can pick up a b series one for usually around 50 bucks. Again if you have any goals to make more power in the future, put some pistons and rods in
If u do upgrade the throttle body which isn't really necessary u can pick up a b series one for usually around 50 bucks. Again if you have any goals to make more power in the future, put some pistons and rods in
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