I finnally got my built H22 started and it runnls like ***. first off it idel surges really bad, it is running WAY rich, and it has between 0 and -3in hg vac.

Here are my variables:

stock h22 basemap
stock 340cc injectors
venom intake manifold

here is what we have checked:

Leakdow test showed 4-7 psi across the cylinders
cam timing is DEAD ON to spec
valves ARE adjusted to spec


And I do get a check engine light when the car is running but we cant check it in fear of washing the cylinders, and it is like it gets erased when the engine is turned off.

So if anyone has any insight on this that would be great. I relly think its that damn manifold but i could be wrong, thanks.

 

Definitely sounds like a vacuum leak. Check all of your vacuum connections and make sure you don't have one left open, or a leak.

 

Check and make sure your MAP sensor is hooked up properly...and functioning.

 

bump for more input

 

i think stock h22 injectors were 290cc? if they are then those 340s wont be running with a stock h22 basemap. you know you can turn the key on and check the CEL. the care doesnt ahve to be started

 

o and check your injectors clips to make sure they are all on tight. sometimes they come loose and the car runs like ****

 

3in-hg... either cam timing is off, ign timing is way off or its running way too rich.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mahcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think stock h22 injectors were 290cc? if they are then those 340s wont be running with a stock h22 basemap. you know you can turn the key on and check the CEL. the care doesnt ahve to be started</TD></TR></TABLE>

^^ Thats for the 5th gen(290cc)................4th gen OBDI injectors are like 345cc.............or 340cc

 

hmm, make sure your IAT and IACV wires aren't switched, had this happen on a friends car and turns out the the connectors are the same with different wire colors and he ended up frying his IAT by switching the wires and the car ran similar to what you are describing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3in-hg... either cam timing is off, ign timing is way off or its running way too rich.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The cam timing is DEAD ON, and as for fuel and ignition, it is just a stock uberdata h22 basemap. I have 340cc obd1 injectors, a walbro 255 pump, msd 6a, blaster ss coil.

We tried to tweak the basemap, but after taking away like 50% fuel and adding 30% timing, it was running a tad better, but still terrible, and still no vac, and at that point we stopped tuning because we didnt want to f anything up. And we cant read the wideband because it takes like 1:30 to warm up and we dont want it to run that long.

 

Datalog in uberdata and see what CEL is it running in...

 

unfortunatley my ecu isnt hooked up for dataloging, bump for more help

 

who burned your chip? i had the same problem (while burning the chip the BIn got corrupted, car ran like ***) also make sure your chip is in all the way, and in the correct way as well.

my buddy forgot to put his chip in, ran like ****, like 3 hg at idle, would rev and everything and we realized we forgot to put the chip back in

on a side note, another time the BIN was corrupted, i flooded my engine with so much fuel, it wouldnt start, i had to wait for the next day, and it started right up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3in-hg... either cam timing is off, ign timing is way off or its running way too rich.</TD></TR></TABLE>

my thoughts.
i was leaning towards cam timming.

 

Do a crank vacuum test. Hook a gauge up to the manifold and crank the motor. Disable something so the motor wont start up. The vacuum should be between 4 to 6. See if it drops then comes back up. If so a cylinder is haveing problems Or if it jumps between a bunch of numbers. That is usally something with vavles. Then do a compression test. Let it crank and the needle bounce about 5 times. Check all cylinders. After that put a little oil in the cylinder and it should bump up about 5 to 10 psi. The compression should be above 100 psi. If not look at all cylinders. If all low you proably have wrong camber timing. If just one cylinder bad you have a bad cylinder. The wet test checks the piston rings. So if compression doesnt go up your cylinder ring is haveing problems sealing. But if it does go up then you have other leak some where else. Like headgasket, vavle, or intake manifold gasket. If all test are good then you can rule out something is up with your motor and the problem is somewere else. That is were I would start

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BB6-213 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">unfortunatley my ecu isnt hooked up for dataloging, bump for more help</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well...it really sounds like you dont have the right stuff to do proper troubleshooting.

Instead of taking stabs into the dark on such a precious motor...why dont you get the reight equipment for the job.