Hey im trying to turbo my 1993 civic ex i got a 14b turbo, front mount intercooler, boost gauge, and blow-off valve. I know i need a manifold, intercooler pipes, oil return line, fuel pump and injectors. Is there anything else i might need or problems i could run into, and where can i find a the other parts i need? thanx for any help you can give me.

 

to boost ur fuel pressure for each lb of boost get a cartech fmu. this one work better than say a vortech since it is adjustable.. 12:1 doesnt work for everyone and the Cartech although more expensive give you a broader range of tuneability

 

wastegate

 

Ok way:

Boost dependant FMU ~$50-$100
Check valve ~$25

Optional:
MSD BTM6 (to retard the timing per pould of boost) ~$400
(or u could just retard the distributor manually which will alter the whole timing curve)

Better way:

since you already have a ex, just get your P28 chipped ~$50
Moates chip burner ~$80
Uberdata ~Free
(uberdata will allow you to control almost every aspect you can think of)

 

a turbo timer and fuel rail would be a good investment. the turbo timer will make your turbo last longer. and fuel rail will just make things better by getting more fuel to the engine. dont run past 7 pounds of boost

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wastegate</TD></TR></TABLE>

14b's have internal wastegates.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by streetracerof06 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a turbo timer and fuel rail would be a good investment. the turbo timer will make your turbo last longer. and fuel rail will just make things better by getting more fuel to the engine. dont run past 7 pounds of boost</TD></TR></TABLE>stock d series fuel rails are good up to 300 hp. You ain't gonna get 300 hp out of a d series without doing some major work. I'd stick it out w/ stock. btw, doesn't he need to do something w/ the manifold absolute pressure sensor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nsane1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock d series fuel rails are good up to 300 hp. You ain't gonna get 300 hp out of a d series without doing some major work. I'd stick it out w/ stock. btw, doesn't he need to do something w/ the manifold absolute pressure sensor? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would like more info on this...? i have never heard of anything having to be done to the manifodl absolute press sensor.. nor have i ever heard of it... More info please?

 

its called the missing link i think, from what i understand it "tricks" the computer into not seeing the boost. if im wrong please someone explain so i can learn as well?

 

uhh.. map sensor? isn't that what you need bleed off valves for? so you can bleed off the boost before the ecu can read it?(i'm probably talking out of my ***..)

 

haha i think Nsame1 has us all* confused...


Modified by JDMKid71 at 10:31 AM 7/20/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MiMiK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">uhh.. map sensor? isn't that what you need bleed off valves for? so you can bleed off the boost before the ecu can read it?(i'm probably talking out of my ***..)</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's exactly what it does. It's bleeds off air coming through the IM so the MAP doesn't see it and throw a CEL. If the MAP sees boost the ECU will do some retarded **** because Honda ECU's have zero tolerance for boost.

Save yourself a huge headache and go to Moates.net. Get the Burn1 and Uber1. Then go to this link https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1179346

I got an M-300 WB. Call them and tell them you want to buy an M-300 wideband O2 sensor. Tell them you saw it in a thread on Honda-Tech. Price is $310 shipped.

For the Burn1 & Uber1 its around $110 shipped.
For the Widbeband its $310 shipped.

$420 for a better chance of your motor lasting and doing things right- Priceless