so this weekend i put a 92 integra brake booster and master cylinder in my crx (which is a huge pain in the *** without removing the dash) but now the pedal goes to the floor... i blead the brakes and got air bubbles out of the lines. it is not leaking fluid anywhere. should i try bleading them again or is there something else i could have done wrong? also should i use the prop valve too?

 

You might have a bad MC, ohh and don't worry about the prop valve, if you've gone from rear drum to disc, you may want to change it, but under most conditions, you'll never notice a difference.

 

did you make sure that the master cylinder didnt have any air in the chamber? either that you might as well change the master cylinder to a new one... only cost $60 w/ core exchange....

 

You should remove the MC from the booster and clean the internals. Disassembly is pretty straight forward. Will require a spring ring tool. Once open, check main and secondary cylinders for any heavy wear or damage to the surface. If its bad, replace the whole unit, otherwise just clean the whole unit good and remove all debre. Replace the rod seal (seal between the MC and Booster). Then put back in car without connecting lines and do an incar bench bleed. Once all bubbles are gone from MC, then connect 2 brake lines to MC and bleed all 4 corners. Continually check all fittings for leaks while you are pumping. Highly recommend getting the Russell Speed Bleeders ($20 for 4 corners; Summit Racing has them and they ship FAST).

 

The first guess is that the master cylinder is bad and back bleeding internally.

The second thing to think about is if you mis-matched a ABS master cylinder and not-ABS booster.

I can't understand why you had to pull the dash!! I did the swap last week and the only "problem" I had was trying to get the booster in place (getting it past the Skunk 2 intake manifold on my B18c). The solution was to remove the clevice while putting the booster in.

Wes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The first guess is that the master cylinder is bad and back bleeding internally.

The second thing to think about is if you mis-matched a ABS master cylinder and not-ABS booster.

I can't understand why you had to pull the dash!! I did the swap last week and the only "problem" I had was trying to get the booster in place (getting it past the Skunk 2 intake manifold on my B18c). The solution was to remove the clevice while putting the booster in.

Wes</TD></TR></TABLE>
the master cylinder and booster where still bolted to each other in the car so i don't think the abs and non could be mixed up. i didn't pull the dash i was just meaning it would have been easier. (i got fat fingers )

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92integra_gs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you make sure that the master cylinder didnt have any air in the chamber? either that you might as well change the master cylinder to a new one... only cost $60 w/ core exchange....</TD></TR></TABLE>
what do you mean air in the chamber? there was no fluid in it when i pulled it if that is what you mean.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bunger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You might have a bad MC, ohh and don't worry about the prop valve, if you've gone from rear drum to disc, you may want to change it, but under most conditions, you'll never notice a difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it is an si so i already got rear disc so i guess i wont change it... thanks


how do you do the incar bench bleed? just take off the brake lines and pump the brakes till a steady stream of fluid?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by limpy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you do the incar bench bleed? just take off the brake lines and pump the brakes till a steady stream of fluid?</TD></TR></TABLE>

get a bench bleed kit from auto store (~$8) comes with plastic fittings and hoses/clamps
remove the brake lines from the MC (2) then attach fittings and hose, routing hose back into resovoir. Fill res and make sure hoses are below fluid surface at all times. Slowly pump brakes (so you don't make a mess) and have someone watch resovoir to check when bubbles stop, and to make sure level does not drop below hoses. Once done, remove hose and fittings, then reattach brake lines.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andy R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a bench bleed kit from auto store (~$8) comes with plastic fittings and hoses/clamps
remove the brake lines from the MC (2) then attach fittings and hose, routing hose back into resovoir. Fill res and make sure hoses are below fluid surface at all times. Slowly pump brakes (so you don't make a mess) and have someone watch resovoir to check when bubbles stop, and to make sure level does not drop below hoses. Once done, remove hose and fittings, then reattach brake lines.</TD></TR></TABLE>
great... thanx i will try this tomorrow

 

alright i did all that and the brakes are much more firm now but they still drop to the floor kinda fast. i went through and re-blead everything and made sure the bleeder screws were all tight but still to the floor. there doestn't appear to be any fluid leaking from any of the calipers or the master cylinder or booster so what could it be now.