LOL my car has developed this problem tonight which is rather amusing. I was stopped at a traffic light and my mate was turning off so I gave him a little toot with the horn, then my car cut off. I started it back up thinking nothing of it then I stopped and tooted just to test it and my car cut off again. When I toot when im driving you can feel the car hesitate or miss.

What a funny problem

I have airhorns I installed a few months ago, with no problems whatsoever until today.

Also the other day I noticed during the day when I pressed on the brake the clock went dimmer like it does at night and also the headunit went dimmer, but the problem went away shortly.

WTF is wrong? Im guessing some dodgy or shorted wiring?

Help :idea:

 

check your wires... also. try staying away from beans... the more u eat the more u ____

 

There is obviously a bad ground or shorted wire somewhere, possibly related to the air horn install.

 

could be a bad alternator, youll find out soon if it is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is obviously a bad ground or shorted wire somewhere, possibly related to the air horn install.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what it sounds like it is to me.

 

i like the fact that you say "toot."

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by llxzxll &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i like the fact that you say "toot." </TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL you Americans, what do you guys use? Beep? Honk?

Anyways I don't think its the alternator. Because when the clock and headunit went dim it's like what happens when you turn your headlights and your headunit dimmer works.

Well there is definately some dodgy wiring. When i "honk" with the engine on I can hear a relay click underneath the dash. Now im pretty sure the horn relay isn't under the dash, so maybe somehow my horn is cutting off my fuel relay???

It's never happened before until last night.

What should i check first?

 

So just don't use your horn (problem solved)

 

Your horn is too strong - it creates a vortex that sucks away available oxygen from the surrounding environment. At idle or low speeds, your engine is only breathing small amounts of air and when the vortex is activated all oxygen is gone, and that's why your car cuts off.

At higher speeds the vortex has more oxygen available and does not take all available oxygen from your motor. It appears to be a level 1 vortex. A level 2 vortex is created from a single cam VTEC activation. A level 3 was discovered with the dual cam VTEC. A level 4 is wildly rumored to exist, but no scientific data has been sufficiently collected.

 

i had the same problems with my car ... out of the blue ... when i press the horn the dashboard and clock flicker...i still dont know whats wrong with it today... i just avoid pressing the horn at all...and it usually burn out my brake fuse in the relay box....well if u find a way to fix it ... can u write it up again..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by senpai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your horn is too strong - it creates a vortex that sucks away available oxygen from the surrounding environment. At idle or low speeds, your engine is only breathing small amounts of air and when the vortex is activated all oxygen is gone, and that's why your car cuts off.

At higher speeds the vortex has more oxygen available and does not take all available oxygen from your motor. It appears to be a level 1 vortex. A level 2 vortex is created from a single cam VTEC activation. A level 3 was discovered with the dual cam VTEC. A level 4 is wildly rumored to exist, but no scientific data has been sufficiently collected.</TD></TR></TABLE>

rofl

tian: nobody knows what you did to that car but you. the only way to know for sure is to grab a helms and a test light and get to work. good luck, I know a lot of people that have sold awesome cars because of stupid things like this bugging them lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by senpai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your horn is too strong - it creates a vortex that sucks away available oxygen from the surrounding environment. At idle or low speeds, your engine is only breathing small amounts of air and when the vortex is activated all oxygen is gone, and that's why your car cuts off.

At higher speeds the vortex has more oxygen available and does not take all available oxygen from your motor. It appears to be a level 1 vortex. A level 2 vortex is created from a single cam VTEC activation. A level 3 was discovered with the dual cam VTEC. A level 4 is wildly rumored to exist, but no scientific data has been sufficiently collected.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahaha lmao where do ppl come up with that ****?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidwestSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So just don't use your horn (problem solved) </TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly i never hooked mine back up after i change my momo wheel back to stock (which is for sale btw) and although it is fun sometimes i have never HAD to use it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by senpai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your horn is too strong - it creates a vortex that sucks away available oxygen from the surrounding environment. At idle or low speeds, your engine is only breathing small amounts of air and when the vortex is activated all oxygen is gone, and that's why your car cuts off.

At higher speeds the vortex has more oxygen available and does not take all available oxygen from your motor. It appears to be a level 1 vortex. A level 2 vortex is created from a single cam VTEC activation. A level 3 was discovered with the dual cam VTEC. A level 4 is wildly rumored to exist, but no scientific data has been sufficiently collected.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dry dude

Yea it's probably a bad ground of some type or bad wiring.

Yes it does sound funny but it's an annoying problem

 

Checkyour battery terminals and make sure they are tight. I had a similar problem except when I would step on the brake, my car would basicaly have a surge (if you want to call it that). My radio, lights, and cluster would lose power for a second then come back on. Turned out I had a loose ground wire where it connects to the body of the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by senpai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your horn is too strong - it creates a vortex that sucks away available oxygen from the surrounding environment. At idle or low speeds, your engine is only breathing small amounts of air and when the vortex is activated all oxygen is gone, and that's why your car cuts off.

At higher speeds the vortex has more oxygen available and does not take all available oxygen from your motor. It appears to be a level 1 vortex. A level 2 vortex is created from a single cam VTEC activation. A level 3 was discovered with the dual cam VTEC. A level 4 is wildly rumored to exist, but no scientific data has been sufficiently collected.</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha hilarious. you have a horn that works as a kill switch =]

 

damn, that is a dilemma. Especially if some dude decides to cut you off and you decide to honk your horn and chase him down for a verbal bashing. He'll definitely lose you.

TTT

 

Been testing yet again.

When i start the car up and press the horn, the car will cut out or want to cut and the engine check light comes on... and goes into limp home mode. When i jump the connector there is code 15 - Ignition output signal .

Does this ring any bells?


Modified by tianporn at 1:12 AM 7/13/2005

 

Throws code 15 - Ignition output signal

 

Bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tianporn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Throws code 15 - Ignition output signal </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bump

Why would my horn cause my car to cut out and throw code 15 - ignition output signal?

 

Did you ever think that maybe that horn doesn't belong on that car and that is why honda didn't put it there?

Problems like this occur a lot more than you could ever imagine. I tear a remote starter off of a car at least twice a month because they cause all sorts of problems before you realize what it is. I had one throw an SRS code.

Moral of the story: Aftermarket electronics of this nature cause problems. Put your stock horn back on and see what happens.

 

OK mate, i'll have a look. But i think i threw my JDM horn in the junk. Boohoohoo