I have a stock 1992 EG Civic H/B with a crank, no-start problem. A few days ago I started the car and it ran for a few seconds and then died. After that, the car would crank and crank but not turn over. After some poking around, I realized the fuel pump wasn't coming on. I checked the connector that supplies power to the pump, but no voltage was found. And I checked to see if the pump main relay was coming on, and it did. So, I'm thinking there may be a problem in the connection from the relay to the pump. But when I put my test light to the back of the #8 wire on the terminal attaching to the pump relay,(GREEN wire with YELLOW stripe), the test light lights up, and the pump comes on when I have the Key On/Engine Off. Oddly enough the car still won't start even when I keep the pump on with the test light and crank it. The wiring diagram I have says that #8 terminal goes to or comes from the ECU. I am all out of ideas....

 

you checked the voltage going to the pump? test light is too vauge of a tool to use IMO. It doesn't tell you if there's alot of voltage or just a little bit. BTW I'm guessing that your pump is going bad BUT don't take my word for it. Continue testing it with a multimeter instead of a test light

 

I did check it with a digital multimeter, it showed 0 voltage... and a bad pump is what I thought at first too, but 100 dollars and a brand new pump later, still not coming on.


Modified by Retribution at 9:51 PM 6/15/2005

 

there is a fuse for the fuel pump on 92 and up hondas. its on the fuse box under the dash. check that.

 

The fuse for the pump, and all the other fuses in the car are ok. I'm not for sure, but I think the ECU might be at fault, or at least the wiring from the ECU to the pump relay. Because when I touched the back of one of the wires that goes into the relay with a test light, it clicked on and than the fuel pump came on too. I guess I grounded the wire out, but I kept the pump on than cranked the car but it still wouldn't turn over....would a burnt out ECU cause the car to not start?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Retribution &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The fuse for the pump, and all the other fuses in the car are ok. I'm not for sure, but I think the ECU might be at fault, or at least the wiring from the ECU to the pump relay. Because when I touched the back of one of the wires that goes into the relay with a test light, it clicked on and than the fuel pump came on too. I guess I grounded the wire out, but I kept the pump on than cranked the car but it still wouldn't turn over....would a burnt out ECU cause the car to not start?</TD></TR></TABLE>

check for damage to this area.

 

when you turn the key to the run pos (not crank), does the check engine light come on and turn off with a click sound? Reason im asking because the main relay gives power to the ECU and the fuel pump, and that could be reason why your car didnt start even when you jumped power to the pump.

 

Yeah, the engine check light comes on, then turns off just like normal...

 

You used a test light on a wire that goes directly to the PCM? I hate to say it but you may have just destroyed it. To test on electronic circuitry you need a DMM with at least 10 mega ohms of impedance.

As for your no start problem, have you checked for fuel in the combustion chamber? Pull a plug and crank the motor. Smell gas? Then you have fuel. Have you checked for spark?

 

Today I swapped in another ECU, and low and behold, it started up with no problems. The original smelled burnt and found a spot that looked like it was fire damage. Don't know why it would burn out like that...

 

Yep. Ecu chip for the main relay/fuel pump relay is attached in pic below. That was my issue when the fuel pump would prime only sometimes, car would die while running, and not start well when cold. Replaced the chip. Primes everytime BUT it put my ecu into limp mode (car wouldn't run over 3.5K RPM). BECAUSE, I fucked my ecu doing this, and paid 770 to get it repaired at a lab. Didn't work. Now I sent it back, (not very hopeful) and have found some replacement ecu options (after months mind you, very rare). So yes, very may well be the chip, but for the love of god get it done by a professional and don't worry about the price. Trust me it'll have SAVE you a grand or two. Lol. See pic.

Chip number is ta8903sn it's the 5V regulator.