Ok im gonna be removing me head to install my new crower stage 2 cams and crower valvetrain. I have a skunk2 intake manifold on my h22 in my accord. I was wondering if anyone knows if it will come out with the manifold on. I wanted to keep it on so i have something to hold on too when pulling it out. This is gonna be the first time ive removed my head so any helpfull information would be appreciated.Thanks.

 

Yes you can remove it all together...

We just performed a swap too and let me GIVE U SOME HUGE SUGGESTIONS.


LABEL EVERY SENSOR with a sticker

LABEL EVERY BOLT


Use a torque wrench for specific Specs


Use an deep impact for Head Studs (broke 3 sockets)

 

more info.
When taking off valve cover be very care full with the 5 bolts holding it on they break very easy.

When putting the head back on tighten bolts in a criss cross manner. Same for putting the valve cover back on.

Don't use a tour wrench on the valve cover nuts guy hold the socket in the palm of your hand and tighten with putting to much force on it.

 

Ok i will def label everything and i have the torque wrench ready. I just need to go buy a deep socket. What mm are the head studs im geussing 14mm. The reason i didnt think i would be able to pull it all out together was bc the manifold is by the firewall. I was thinking for some reason i gotta pull it straight up. I froggot once i remove the studs i can pull it up and towards me. This should allow the manifold to clear and come out with the head correct.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92hondalude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't use a tour wrench on the valve cover nuts guy hold the socket in the palm of your hand and tighten with putting to much force on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea i already learned my lesson on that. I tried using my torque wrench on the valve cover right after i bought it and broke the stud. Now i just hand tighten it. Thanks for all the help so far 92 and dark.

 

Are you installing aftermarket valves too? Otherwise it is not necessary to remove the head to install springs/retainers/cams.

Pirate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you installing aftermarket valves too? Otherwise it is not necessary to remove the head to install springs/retainers/cams.

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>No im not installing aftermarket valves. Im just putting in some cams, springs and retainers. I dont have a compressor. Wich i thought was needed to keep the valves from dropping. So im just gonna pull the head.If there is another way to do it with out compressed air please let me know before i start pulling the head. Ive got the exhaust manifold off already and tommorow i was gonna finish.

 

I might do a .020 mill that was another reason i might wanna pull the head. Im just not sure if i wanna mill it yet. I was thinking maybe just take the middle layer out of the headgasket.

 

Head studs are 14 mil, use impact sockets like said above.

Yes, you can leave the intake manifold on, just be a bit more careful not to knock it on the back firewall when pulling it out, and use a magnet to pull out the headstuds instead of letting them dangle in the head.

I don't find labelling everything necessary; I just put every bolt back in the hole it comes from, and everything is easy to fit back together when its time to reinstall.

Good luck!

EDIT - How the hell did you get down to 94%?!?!

Also, what are you swapping the Sk2 stgI's out for?

 

You can keep valves from dropping into the cylinder by keeping the piston at TDC on whichever set of valves you are working on. The friction from the valve guide and valve seal should also help keep the valve on its seat.

I installed mine with the head on... if nothing else it can save you $50 on a new Headgasket




If you do decide to leave the head on then be sure to plug the oil drain passages with paper towel or something. You don't want to go fishing in the oil pan for your keepers.

Pirate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you do decide to leave the head on then be sure to plug the oil drain passages with paper towel or something. You don't want to go fishing in the oil pan for your keepers.

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you DO, keep one of those telescopic magnets handy.....TRUST ME, they come in handy at the worst times...

Another tip: when reinstalling the valve keepers, put just a dab of vaseline on the end of the valve then stick the keeper onto the end of the valve. The vaseline will help keep the keepers on the valve, making things MUCH easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EDIT - How the hell did you get down to 94%?!?!

Also, what are you swapping the Sk2 stgI's out for?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im not sure why i was docked points but i wish someone would have told me why?
Im putting in some crower stage 2s.The obx cams held up with stock springs but alot of people are claiming there eating the rockers but they all have stiffer springs.
I dont wanna have to worry about my rockers and picked up a set of crower stage 2s brand new for 400.00 got the springs and retainers brand new for 250.00 so im pretty happy.
Thanks for all the helpfull info everyone. Im probably just gonna use the tdc trick and just leave the head on. I always thought you had to have compressed air.

 

helms is your amigo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22 civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">helms is your amigo</TD></TR></TABLE>
The haynes manual is my freind lol. Never got around to buying the helms yet. Im def gonna pick one up when i decide to go into the block. I think this should be easy bc I decided to leave the head on. Im just worried about using the spring compressor for the 1st time. Not totally clear on how it works.

 

i have that set-up let me know the diff between the obx and the crower's.

 

keep in midn if u have arp head studs, u need a 14mm 12pt socket

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddiebx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep in midn if u have arp head studs, u need a 14mm 12pt socket</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the info bc if i do pull the head im gonna buy some arp stuts.