Ok so I finished inspecting the valve clearance and when replacing the valve cover I accidentally over-tightened one of the screws and it snapped just above the washer.



Any ideas how I go about fixing this?

(I presume that the snapped screw will come out by turning it anti-clockwise and it is simply replaced by inserting a new valve screw - is this right?)


Modified by r`Geno at 7:47 AM 4/3/2005

 

yeah you have to replace the stud. it can be biotch to remove though.

 

So, I remove the top 16 screws to get access to the underside of the plate (where the rest of the screw is situated)?

It'll probably end up "screwing" *Punn intended* more things than it will fix (looks like more trouble than it's worth - you weren't kidding about it being a biotch!)

(These aren't the actual pictures, just verbal props borrowed from our friends at C-speedracing)

 

no, you just unscrew the stud thats broken and replace it. really simple

 

i just replaced one about 2 weeks ago.
about $5 from the dealership for a new one.

just use a 12mm (could be 14mm i cant remember off hand) socket and loosen the old one off. then carefully thread in the new one and torque it down to 20 ft/lbs

when you put the valve cover back on, make sure you only snug the bolts to about 8ft/lbs

 

I did the same. Just find a dealer that stocks a replacement and screw it in (you can see the new one in the last pic)







definately makes you go "****!" though!

 

Cheers for your help lads, fixed it with Kavehman today:


Hmm...now there's our problem.


Ouch - looks nasty!


Here's the remedy.


Ahh...good as new again!

 

well done i must say.

thank god the guy that designed these engines thought **** like that might break and made it replaceable.

 

MR ITR = :drool:

looks like you fixed her up just right.

 

Alright guys I know this is totally back from the dead but I need help, my dumb *** snapped one of the screws last night, doh! ....Is there a specific part # for that screw that i need?...Or do i just kinda tell them what i need at the dealership(i doubt it)...Im hoping a local honda dealer has them in stock because my cars off the road right now and I need it 2morrow...

 

Hey,

Whats the part number of the screw, I ordered a replacement with the intention of fixing it on my next valve adjustment, but if my memory serves me correctly, it didn't look like that... (Need to dig the box and check)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by r`Geno &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

its a good idea to buy some extras, or learn your lesson and only torque to 7lbs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a good idea to buy some extras, or learn your lesson and only torque to 7lbs</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2 I have broken my fair share of those studs with my gorilla hands.

 

I think everyone breaks those studs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hungsteR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think everyone breaks those studs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't jinx me I'm replacing 4 of those cap nuts tomorrow.

*looks over at torque wrench* my friend

 

Don't even use the torque wrench. Use a 3/8 inch wrech and a short socket and just as it catches give it one last nick and you're good. There's a technique to it.

I even used to use a 1/4 inch wrench with a 1 inch extension and a short socket and finesse it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Opie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't even use the torque wrench. Use a 3/8 inch wrech and a short socket and just as it catches give it one last nick and you're good. There's a technique to it.

I even used to use a 1/4 inch wrench with a 1 inch extension and a short socket and finesse it </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol you cant finesse jack ****

just set a 3/8 torque wrench to 7lbs, or just snug it. 7lbs isnt much really.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Opie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't even use the torque wrench. Use a 3/8 inch wrech and a short socket and just as it catches give it one last nick and you're good. There's a technique to it.

I even used to use a 1/4 inch wrench with a 1 inch extension and a short socket and finesse it </TD></TR></TABLE>

330R has OCD

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you cant finesse jack **** </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's not what your mother said, Trebek.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2fanboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey,

Whats the part number of the screw, I ordered a replacement with the intention of fixing it on my next valve adjustment, but if my memory serves me correctly, it didn't look like that... (Need to dig the box and check) </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just for reference when someone finds this thread 10 years from now...

So it seems like I ordered
90012-PM7-000 BOLT B, HEAD COVER (under CYLINDER HEAD COVER)
instead of
90014-PR3-000 BOLT A, HEAD COVER (under CYLINDER HEAD)

BOLT B is what Alexander replaced and BOLT A is what r'Geno replaced.

I guess I'll have extras when I break BOLT B then

 

anyone else think that it is funny that the op used the word "anti-cleockwise"?

never heard that one before, sounds like an anti-establishment remark... lol

 

dc2, you got PM , is till dk what the hell is the difference, and which part to order, theres 2 diff partn umbers (obviously) but it looks to me like geno and alexander replaced teh same exactly bolt, but apparently im wrong...