Hey guys... I've been busting my *** redoing the suspension in my teg all day. I followed the Team-Integra article to get the fronts out... That's done. However as soon as I attacked the first bolt on the rear's, the **** started flying. First off... I couldn't get the bolt off... So I tried harder and actually broke the head right off the bolt. Great.

So now I need another bolt, but firstly, I need to get that damn bolt out. I'm talking about the bolt (I think its 19mm) that bolts directly into the strut assembly. How are you supposed to get that bolt out? I'm really up the creek on this one I need to get my car together by tomorrow or I'm just screwed.

Does anyone know any good writeups on a suspension install? Z's was good, and I read a couple on H-T, but I'm very mechanically challanged and I really need help with this sort of thing.

Thanks guys.

 

that rear bolt was a big pain for me. Try to get a thick pipe to fit over the handle of your wrench and use it as a breaker bar and it should give you more leverage. I ended up breaking my wrench tip and bent a pipe in the process of taking that bolt out but i finally got it. O yeah, spray some wd-40 and let it sit for 5 minutes then give it a go. But you said you broke the bolt head so i dunno what else so say.

 

Yep I did that... And I broke the bolt.

How the **** am I gonna get that thing out?

 

same thing happened to me , i just got new lca's , cant beat them all nem bushings and all for like 120 shipped , cant go wrong

 

Ooh that sounds nice... But i can't do it heh. I just need to get this goddamn bolt out. Did you guys jack up the rotor or do anything to take the pressure off of that bolt? I'm flipping out.

 

OXY-Aceletin torch will melt it right out but you'll need to replace anything it burns. (plastic not metal)

 

is that the bolt with the shanks on it. Like ribs or whatever. God dam that was a bitch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-CeReaL#4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is that the bolt with the shanks on it. Like ribs or whatever. God dam that was a bitch. </TD></TR></TABLE> Wtf are you talking about.

 

No offense to the other people, but skip the WD-40, the breaker bar, and the acetylene torch. Only consider the WD-40 or liquid wrench if you want to wait a 1-2 days for it to work. If you use the breaker the bar on the other bolts you might snap them too. I would think the acetylene torch is over kill. Use a propane torch with a good tip or map gas. It will get hot and not melt the metal or burn your eyes like and acetylene torch. Propane is much safer. Still avoid breathing fumes when using the torch.

OK, now to the problem you have. Once you have the strut supported, try to slid or knock it off the support bolt without damaging the upper mounting. USe the propane torch on the threads of the bolt in the support bracket. Keep it on there for 5-7 minutes to assure the rusts bonds are broken, then use a vise grip around what is kleft of the bolt and take it out. I've been where you are before, and this method always gets the bolt free.

Good luck!

 

Same thing happend to me and my 94 teg. I took out the whole control arm and heated it up with a propane torch and punded the bushing out. Then bought a new buching and bolt from honda and pound it in. It sucked ***, but I couldn't get the damn bolt out. It was my last option and it worked. Good luck man

 

If you have access to a welder you can also drill a small pilot hole, install a piece of metal into that pilot hole and weld it into the broken bolt. Use that extension to whatever use you need to get that thing screwed out. When you re install them, put on a coat of anti sieze.

 

Understand that when it comes to siezed bolts, more leverage (bigger breaker bars) is a NO-NO!! You're almost guaranteed to break a siezed bolt when you try to apply a high sustained torque load against the bolt head.

An impact wrench is the absolute best solution to stubborn bolts. The repeated impacts help to break the bolt free.

I've taken my rear shocks off lots of times. The first time I took them off was when I lowered the car when it was 8 years old and had 105K miles on it. I've always used an impact wrench and I've never had a problem getting the bolts off.

If you don't have an air compressor to use for an air impact wrench, I suggest an electric impact wrench. I was using a 12-volt electric impact that first time I lowered my car, and it got those bolts off no problem. It was pretty slow (1 impact every 1-2 seconds), but it still worked. I suggest you try that when you get ready to remove the other shock. The 12V electric impact wrenches are pretty cheap.

 

I don't know if an Impact wrench will have enough torque for these bolts man... I'll give it a try if the other one appears to be siezed too.

So I need to replace the bushing on the passenger side though. Anyone know a good place to get em?

 

are you replacing you struts too or you useing your stockers?....casue you cauld just get a angle grinder and cut of the nut off the strut and get a punch and pops the bolt out,this is if you use new shocks or you could use the old ones and get a nut and bolt it back together,...then later weld it