Suspension Help
#1
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Suspension Help
Well, my friend came over and wanted to help, so I said okay take this bolt off and don't snap it...so what does he do?
If you look at this picture...
The head of the bolt holding the shock to the LCA snapped off (the left-most bolt). I'm 99% sure that there aren't threads on the LCA where the bolt goes through, but the threads are just on the other side of the shock. So I just cut off the shock near the bolt, and thought the bolt would just slide through, but it didn't. Could someone confirm that the threads aren't on the inside of the LCA, but are on the shock?
Also, if it won't just slide through, how can I get it off?
I'm completely done except for the right rear... :thumbdown
If you look at this picture...
The head of the bolt holding the shock to the LCA snapped off (the left-most bolt). I'm 99% sure that there aren't threads on the LCA where the bolt goes through, but the threads are just on the other side of the shock. So I just cut off the shock near the bolt, and thought the bolt would just slide through, but it didn't. Could someone confirm that the threads aren't on the inside of the LCA, but are on the shock?
Also, if it won't just slide through, how can I get it off?
I'm completely done except for the right rear... :thumbdown
#2
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Re: Suspension Help (thw_goalie)
The middle section of the bolts are not threaded, but they will seize inside the metal sleeve of the bushing very easily. Sounds like they are seized up in your case. You can try lots and lots of heat to break the rust loose, but you will probably just end up having to cut through the bolt on either side of the bushing, between the fork, or simply cut the fork, depending on whether or not you're planning on re-using the shocks.
#3
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I actually already cut the fork. So I've just got the bolt with no head going through with a piece of the fork at the end with threads. There's no fork at the other end because I was able to slide it off since there's no head on the bolt.
Any ideas on how to get the bolt to slide through? I was advised against heating because I need that bushing and distorting it with heat may cause problems.
Any ideas on how to get the bolt to slide through? I was advised against heating because I need that bushing and distorting it with heat may cause problems.
#6
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Re: (thw_goalie)
Like stated before, your gonna have to cut through the bushing on either side of the LCA (between the shock fork & LCA). Then once you've separated the shock, you will have to replace that bushing with a new one (press out, press in)...
When this happened to me, I was already trying to replace the LCAs. After I couldn't re-use my shock, I used it as an excuse to get some Koni Sports... I still have the shock w/ the LCA fused to it in a box . If you do get it apart, make sure to use new Honda bolts on those spots, and coat the new bolt with with anti-sieze (especially the non-threaded parts).
All 6 rear LCA bolts can have this happen to them, but the damper bolt is the most common...
When this happened to me, I was already trying to replace the LCAs. After I couldn't re-use my shock, I used it as an excuse to get some Koni Sports... I still have the shock w/ the LCA fused to it in a box . If you do get it apart, make sure to use new Honda bolts on those spots, and coat the new bolt with with anti-sieze (especially the non-threaded parts).
All 6 rear LCA bolts can have this happen to them, but the damper bolt is the most common...
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Re: (94eg!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
All 6 rear LCA bolts can have this happen to them, but the damper bolt is the most common...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes I've seen bolts seized in all locations on different installs, but IMO the WORST son of a bitch to get stuck is the LCA-to-chassis bolt. Space is already tight enough down there, without having to try and maneuver a sawzall into that tiny space, and trying to sawzall the bolt. I think you mentioned the entire car was done save for the right rear, if you haven't gotten to that one yet, make sure you don't snap it when you do...
All 6 rear LCA bolts can have this happen to them, but the damper bolt is the most common...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes I've seen bolts seized in all locations on different installs, but IMO the WORST son of a bitch to get stuck is the LCA-to-chassis bolt. Space is already tight enough down there, without having to try and maneuver a sawzall into that tiny space, and trying to sawzall the bolt. I think you mentioned the entire car was done save for the right rear, if you haven't gotten to that one yet, make sure you don't snap it when you do...
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