BrynnTheSlut

Today i was taking apart my rear suspension and snapped off the head to this bolt. (Sorry have no idea what its called) I tried to use my extractor on it and i broke it. Would it still be okay to drive on it for a few days? Im probably going to get it fixed monday. The rest of the bolt is still stuck in there, its just the head that snapped off. Thanks!

PinchE NegRo

**** no! dont take that **** out o the free way... that bolt will wiggle itself out, just wait until u get it fixed... better to be safe then sorry...

BrynnTheSlut

how will it wiggle itself out?

pdiggitydogg

try another metal bit and a larger extractor...thats about all you can do for now

davken1102

**** THAT!!! dont try driving it! that just asking for something to **** up..

BrynnTheSlut

How will it **** it up??? Im just curiois? Its still threaded in there, i just need to know.

acuracing

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrynnTheSlut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Would it still be okay to drive on it for a few days? </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have to ask, you know the answer.

Synergy001

try to make a notch on it so you can you use a flathead screwdriver to take it off....and NO dont drive on it....vibration and weight might take it off

BrynnTheSlut

well, im gonna drive on it. I have to go to work. That bolt is not coming off. I tried taking a pair of vice grips to it to take out the bolt, no luck. I just lowered my car back down and jumped the **** out of it. Thing didnt move. I talked to a few shops and some friends, all said that it will be okay to drive on it for a bit. Im gonna drop it off tomorrow at a shop to have them fix it. You guys say that its going to come out....HOW? Not trying to be rude, but i dont see how it can come out. The only thing im worried about is it bending. But no joke, im driving 1 mile at the most to go to work. I dunno!

Lamchop0000

dont do any crazy turns or hit massive bumps if your going to have to drive it like that...

edit: it looks like it would bend the lip of the trailing arm where the bolt still holds on.

jcarothers

you my friend are asking for trouble driving on that ****...

98SilverCivic

I did the same thing almost except mine was where the lca goes into the hub thing off the trailing arm. Yours is the upper control arm I was thinking like you did "why not its stuck" I drove mine for a week. The fork where the lca goes in. The side where the nut is broken off slipped out of the fork. Kinda twisting the trailing arm a bit and put a crack in the other side of the fork....kinda hard to explain. |-| the middle is the bolt...it slipped out on one side and went |\| sorta....not good Cost me around $150 at a scrap yard to get the trailing arm replaced....Oh and if you've ever had to replace a trailing arm...haha...that e-brake cable is a B*TCH.

dang rusty suspension Good luck on getting that bolt out...I couldn't get mine out...I just bought the whole piece from a scrap yard for around $150 (lca, strut/spring, trailing arm, and uca)

EK MONEY

iTrader: (5)

drill it out. dont drive on it. bad idea.

BrynnTheSlut

well just got back from a test drive. went along some bumpy roads, etc. came home, jacked it up, nothing happened. I will be driving it to work, which is like a mile away, then home, so an over all 2 miles today. then tomorrow going to the honda-tech meet then im gonna drop it off at a shop to have them fix it. If anyone has any reason on why not to drive on it, let me know. Thanks for all the help.

97civicdx

My friends 95 accord also had a similiar situation. He ended up having the car towed to a local STS auto shop and they drilled it out.

visionsOFmadness

i would not drive it why casue bolt with no head tend come out u think not but what if u were driving down the freeway and it came out then what u would be driving a wheel less wonder called old sparky ok.

el nano1983

ok well lets start of by saying that i would drive the car for a little bit but not to long cause believe it or not that bolt there can come loose, anywayz the rear suspension do you have rear discs or drums ??? cause if i were you and i had drums then i would just spend my money on converting it to rear disc, very simple process , you can take the suspension from any civic and acura model, only thing u might need is 92-95 e-brake cable and defnitly need the brake lines from the rear disc suspenion, instead of waisting your time and money to take that simple bolt out, and oh yea E-brake is not complicated at all, people are so umb that they mak it so complex for them selves, very easy to install.

98SilverCivic

Heh...Drill it out....have you guys ever tried to drill one of those bolts out? You know they are grade 8 right? It would be easier to try to get the spot welds off the back of the nut thing and a big hammer and a punch and try to punch it out. ORR A die grinder and cut the bolt between the bushings and the forks. Then take the control arm to get the bushing pressed out and a new one pressed in...punch the pieces of the bolts left in the fork with a hammer and a punch or something of that sort. Buy new bolts and put it back together Its alot harder then "drilling it out" Damn grade 8 honda bolts

el nano1983

eh well drilling out is to hard, these honda bolts are no joke I would just convert it to rear disc if he had drums, drums discs

hayabusa160

i had that happen to me twice same way as yours and i snaped the lca bolt the same way also. was not fun cracked my 14mm sockets too cheap *** pos craftsman sockets weak *****. my lca snaped because the bolt siezed up to the bushing. had to replace the arms so i get a set of srr lca. other one was on my friends ek snaped the bolt in half.

hayabusa160

its possible yours might have done the same siezed up in the bushing. i just checked mines tryied to take them off. same thing siezed up to the bushing.

ImprtTuner88

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98SilverCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh and if you've ever had to replace a trailing arm...haha...that e-brake cable is a B*TCH.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tell me about it, now that I know the trick, I spend about 5 min per side taking it out, b4 ****, cuss at it for 30 min a side.............

RyanR

WTF? Jesus dude, how lazy are you? You live a mile from work, why do you even drive? I used to live a mile from school and walked everyday. It won't hurt you to get some damn exercise.

DCStreetHtch

trust me, this kid doesnt need exercize!!!

meh, rear disk y0!*

-Bryan-

BrynnTheSlut

Well, i drove to work and back, seems okay. I still do not understand how it can wiggle out, well if it can then **** yeah, saves me the trouble, but im pretty sure it cant. As some people have already thought, it may have seized inside the bushings, which i think is true. Im going to drop my car off at a suspension shop tomorrow. Im pretty sure they run into this problem so im pretty sure they know how to fix it. If they cant then im going to try and get the nut off the back. I have a friend with a grinder that could grind it off, then go and buy some heavy duty bolt and nut and put it through there. Would that work? To me i think it "should" work because your just replacing what you already had. I would love to convert to GSR rear brakes. If anyone has any let me know, ill buy them for sure. Thanks for the help, if anyone else has any idea let me know.