I just installed a new z6 in my hatchback and having problems starting it up. Anyone have any tips going about this? Some detailed directions would be great. I did a search but there wasn't much detailed information.

Things I've checked:
- the spark plug wire sparks
- hoses
- fuses
- wiring

Any help will be greatly appreciated
The engine is cranking, turning over, but just not starting. It does smell like fuel so I'm sure it's getting fuel. I checked for spark by putting the spark plug wire next to a bolt and yes it sparked. As far as timing goes, this engine was removed from a running civic 3-4 months ago. It started right up back then, but it has just been sitting for the past 3-4 months. As for the plugs, everything is plugged in.

If you can point out what's wrong and give me detailed instructions how to go about fixing it, I'll paypal you $20. Remember, your suggestion is worth $20 if it starts my engine.

Here are some pictures:

 

possibly flooded from tryin to crank it? this happened my friends sol. pull the A.C.G fuse and crank it a few times then see what happens. id say ignitor but you said you have spark. thats all i got

 

hows the timing, try to do a valve adjustment, seems to work sometimes

 

would timing be messed up even if it was working before, and I haven't touched it?

 

going by your word, timing would not be a problem, is it backfiring?? what does it sound like when it turns over, does it sound like it should or does it sound "off". try spraying a little starting fluid in the IM and see if you get anything different. check the compression, you should get a relatively even number across the board, check for loose grounds, specifically on the thermostat neck and all around. have you tried to jump it off, does it seem like it is turning over fast enough. check the plug wire order, just because you are getting spark, doesnt mean its in the right order. did you change ecu with the swap, are you throwing a code? have fun with these questions.

 

I don't believe it's backfiring. I don't hear loud pops. When it turning over, it should like it should. I've check the grounds (on the valve cover, tranny, thermostat). As for jumping it off, I tried a new battery instead. my garage is on a hill so moving it out would be alot harder than moving it in.

it appears to be turning fast enough. The plug wire order is correct. I'm not throwing any codes.

Pomansouth01 - these are good questions...thanks..

also pulled out the main relay to see if it looked okay and it looks fine.

 

have you tryed a different ECU? I know you said that you are not throwing any codes, but it could be something with the ECU.

 

i've tried a p06 and a p28. that doesn't seem to be the problem. Thanks for the suggestions. Keep it coming

 

try putting the stock intake arm back on. Maybee to much air. On some ford's if the intake is off the tb. the motor will die. It's worth a try. dont cost nothin.
GL

 

yea, i did that already

 

just check the timing its not hard to do. and its a good idea just in case it is. just take off the timing belt cover, line up the "UP" mark on the cam gear. then check to see if the crank is also at top dead center. then just redo the distributor timing.

did you buy the motor from a shop or did you actually see the motor coming out of the car. cause my friend ordered a b16 from nagano or some thing like that and the mechanical timing was waaaaay off.

 

i brought the motor from a running car and was there when it was being pulled out from the car

 

Maybe the timing belt jumped somewhere along the line? Perhaps a bad tensioner? Fuel, spark, timing, compression....hmmm

 

Here's an update:

When I had the injectors out of the intake manifold and tried to start it, the injectors didn't shoot out fuel. Is this how it is suppose to be?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oxSLEEPERxo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I had the injectors out of the intake manifold and tried to start it, the injectors didn't shoot out fuel.</TD></TR></TABLE>Is there fuel pressure in the rail when you try this? If not, check fuel pump, main relay, & wiring.

Are the injectors clicking? Is there battery voltage at the yellow/black wire on each injector?

 

main relay is good

 

Double check your injector wiring. And do you hear a clicking when you turn the key?

 

Pull the injectors out of the fuel rail and tap on them with a screwdriver or something. Sometimes the injectors will seize up if they sit to long. Reinstall and try again. I had the same problem with an Integra I brought. This is all dependent on your fuel pump being good though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oxSLEEPERxo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">main relay is good </TD></TR></TABLE>But is there pressure in the rail? What about switched power to the injectors?

 

UPDATE: The engine is running. However, the P28 isn't working. It struggle in 2nd gear, so I'm using a p06 for now. As for the cause of all this ordeal, it was the extra plug for the resistor box. I had to pull the pin from the "extra plug" and put it back in its original plug.

As for the reward, I have to go back and reread all the posts and see who gave some detailed information on the resister box. There were several post regarding this. I'll pick the one that was posted first and had detailed information. That person will be paypalled $20 as promised.

Thanks for everyone's help.


Modified by oxSLEEPERxo at 2:14 PM 3/18/2005

 

You use a resistor box in a EG?
Im glad to see that you got the car running

 

the dude who i brought the motor from put a resistor box connector, so i unhooked it and back it back to stock

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oxSLEEPERxo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the dude who i brought the motor from put a resistor box connector, so i unhooked it and back it back to stock</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh ok