i currently have a 00 gsr i just rebuilt the head with itr springs oem ratainers and skunk 2 valves stock size i have my gsr cams but i dont know if i should go with a diff cam setup for the turbo kit im buyin [ greedy 10psi turbo kit ] now im stuck on what i should use for pistons and rods i want to push at least 225whp but i still want to get the most reliablity out of the car considering it is a everyday driver any sugestions would help thanks

 

Stock pistons, stock rods, stock cams.

 

y

 

build and only go 225whp?

 

well i would like to see the car get around that area

 

you should be fine with the stock motor at 225, or even a little more. People on here are putting down 300whp on stock motors.
example : https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1007755
(i know its not a gsr motor, but still...)

 

i want reliablility like 100k should i at least put itr pistons

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nbintegracing00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i want reliablility like 100k should i at least put itr pistons
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No....too high of a compression ratio.

 

people do 250WHP very reliably

with your 225 with a good tune of course you will last a long time. You will lose reliability the moment you slap anything on. 225whp is not a big goal but you should be fine for a long time. The weak area in a honda engine is the ringlands....if you want get some forged pistons (not ITR pistons) the rods are fine.

IMO stay stock internals, but if you want to be EXTRA EXTRA safe, get forged pistons. Remember the tune is what will make or break you in the end! GL

EDIT: BTW 10PSI greddy kit on GSR should yield more then 225 just so you know!

 

ow long u think that will last as far as milage i drive the thing everyday also i plan on using hondata and have a fully built head with gsr cams also should i tune after motor break in right after it is installed also should i break in the motor without the turbo installed then install after break in

 

WAy too many variables to determine that......it depends on how you drive/tune/maintenance. and others i can't think of. If you take care of a car it will take care of you. And yes break in the motor without the turbo. I'm not familiar with how to break in, but I have seen tons of articles flying around. search "Earl" on the member list he created a great article

 

one more questions what if i want to go high compression what would i take to get my car in mid13s what pistons rods and cams would you or anyone recomned

 

TOO MANY ******* VARIABLES!!!!!...do asearch in the all motor forum and look around!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">TOO MANY ******* VARIABLES!!!!!...do asearch in the all motor forum and look around!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude stop flamming people and read up on the forum rules https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878169 obviously you dont know how to search yourself or you would have searched and found that telling people to search is not the thing to do. Either answer the persons questions or dont respond at all.

On another note man your GSR will run reliable at 10 psi with more than 225 whp with stock internals as said previously. Just remember making power with a turbo setup is all about the tune. Get it dyno tuned or street tuned with a wideband and run some kind of a fuel management system and you will be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nbintegracing00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one more questions what if i want to go high compression what would i take to get my car in mid13s what pistons rods and cams would you or anyone recomned
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It'll take more than just pistons rods and cams to hit mid 13's. If you already have a greddy kit, why would you consider going back to N/A? You can make more power and go faster with the turbo kit than you ever could naturally aspirated.

 

thank you but i have to build the block anyway so should i just throw oem pistons and rods or go forge ?

 

if you have to built the block, at least don't go with oem pistons and rods. The amount extra for forged will be worth it.

 

Break in the motor first. Go to

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

You will have to read a lot, but it works great. just remember no synthetic oil untill you are beyond 1500 miles on your break in. If you are building the head you might as well build the block. You could go with some *Aires Pistons. (not quite sure how to spell, I'm in a hurry) I would get rods too, because if your trying to be reliable, you've got to build it reliable.

Good Luck