Ok - having a power delivery issue with my Scout. Originally, it would just start when it wanted to (no power at all from battery). I traced some wiring and found exposed wire at a couple of spots from the solenoid back through the firewall (where all vehicle power comes from). Taped it up and all was well, except for the fact that I seem to have an open circuit somewhere, which drains the battery if allowed to sit long enough.

Now the question. The path of least resistance (and effort) would be to wire in a battery kill switch. Convenience (and lazyness) dictates that it be inside the vehicle. Is this safe to do? Is there a difference between outside and inside kill switches?

I know I *ought* to figure out what's really going on, but I don't drive the Scout enough to warrant hours spent playing with fuses and wires. Besides, if I'm going to do all that I should just get a new harness from Painless and do it right...

Bottom line: Kill switch inside the vehicle ok or no?

 

insideK but the closer to the battery the better.

if not realllll close then you better opt for a high amp. inline fuse so the orange box don't burn down incase of short...!!

 

Ok... wires are your friend...

Mechanical fuel pressure gauge = no-no

Willie

 

How close is "really close," Yack? Current setup is this: Optima red top --> 1' to remote solenoid --> 4-5' to stock solenoid. I was thinking about buying two 4' cables, which should leave enough room to get inside and then back outside the firewall.

Willard - Huh?

 

You know Will, Pat. Always drinking in the morning...

Jason- who will not have another for awhile...


[Modified by Darth VadeR, 10:50 AM 1/7/2002]

 

Alright. I figured it out. Will's saying that a kill switch mounted inside is ok, because wires won't set you on fire like a leaking mech. fp gauge would.

How'd I do?

 

J00 did just fine and did not require a

Will