Let me know what you guys think. this is pretty much all I had room for using braided lines. Do you think this will work?








It was kind of hard to take pics but I did what I could. Just looking for some input because I've never turbo'd a car before and I'm pretty much just building it from what I learned from you guys and other miscellaneous forums.

 

Hard to tell but doesn't look like it will. Is there a dip in it before the oil pan?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnmay19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hard to tell but doesn't look like it will. Is there a dip in it before the oil pan?</TD></TR></TABLE>

there is a 45 deg an fitting on the pan that tilts up so it does'nt hit the crossmember. The line is pretty much level even though the pictures make it look like its not. Sadness if the line does'nt work because I don't really know what else to do and I spent a good bit trying out different fittings and lengths of lines to get this setup . The turbo just sits so godam low

 

that line looks incredible long.

it doesn't look like it's gonna do the job.

 

does it run parralell (sp.) to the ground?

 

the line does run parrallel to the ground. It dips down out of the turbo then runs parralel to the ground until it get so the oil pan where it dips down another lil bit

 

I've always thought that the hardest thing about turbo **** is when you run into problems like this. More than likely, that drain is going to give you problems. Alot of the Hf manifold adapter plate kits I see have this same problem.
I can only thing of two solutions that might help you. Maybe run a 90 degree barbed fitting off of the drain flange, and use a straight barbed fitting coming out of the pan. A short straight piece of that braided hose may have just enough angle to get the oil back to the pan. Another thing you have going for you in that situation is that the forward momentum of the car helps to get the oil back to the pan. (In extreme cases this works, but has some smoke at stop lights or driving down hills.) Any how, it's probably a better bet than the loop, because with that you don't have that "momentum of the car" thing going for you.
And if that doesn't work, you might have some luck moving the pan flange. If you move it further away (like near the drivers side corner of the pan) and as far down as you can without being in the oil level, this might give you room to get a little longer of a "slight slant" going and may help. Either way, good luck.

 

looks like it goes down, then back up.

any time it goes up, it'll be fighting gravity to get the oil back in the pan.
and only thing pulling it in there is gravity i think.

just as long as there is no UP portion to the line, you should be ok.
maybe if you used a shorter line, with less slack?

 

Try a regular rubber hose oil return line. Its the AN fittings that are killing you, They are too long and putting it too far down.

Why does your turbo hang so low?

 

Returns are gravity fed, gravity isn't going to do much for that. :^/

 

get some of the earl fittings that swivel
that way get them looking to ea other as best as u can, and use the shortest line u can

 

I definitely wouldnt run that. Switch to barbed fittings and rubber line if you have to.

 

barb fitings and a silicone return line. purchase the return line from vertex on ebay./ pretty cheap and very flexible. im not even using SS braided line anymore. just the silicone stuff. works a hell of a lot better when it comes to flexabilty and limited ****.e

 

looks terrible

 

alright I just took my front end apart so I could get some better pics to you guys.





And mag00n I agree with you . Sad thing is that design took me like 12 hours of thinking and tinkering to construct

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM 4G VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get some of the earl fittings that swivel
that way get them looking to ea other as best as u can, and use the shortest line u can</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you have any pictures? where do I get them. Thanks for the input and optimism unlike some other comments on h-t

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">barb fitings and a silicone return line. purchase the return line from vertex on ebay./ pretty cheap and very flexible. im not even using SS braided line anymore. just the silicone stuff. works a hell of a lot better when it comes to flexabilty and limited ****.e </TD></TR></TABLE>

This is I don't want to retap my pan because I live in the woods ( about 45 minutes away from any town with a tig welder) so is there a way I can thread something into the current tap?

Thanks for all your guy's input. It helps alot because I'm pretty much going solo on this project. None of my local freinds are even into this kind of stuff

 

bump for some more input

 

The line in those pics looks like it dips before the pan.

 

What kind of manifold do you have that places your turbo so low? Ive never seen the return outlet on the turbo so close to the oil pan before.

 

http://amstreetrod.com/700145ERL.php4

10 10 5/8 Dry Sump & Remote Oil Filter Lines 700111ERL
$7.51
ea.

 

i had a similar dillema on a return i made... i put a 90 right off the turbo and tried to keep the line with at least a little downard slope... never had any problems... here's 2 pics for what its worth

 

I would definately look into the 90 degree barb fitting. The earls fittings are nice, but very bulky and that's what you need to get away from in this situation. A 90 off the turbo, and a straight shot into the pan flange you already have. That's what I would do first.

 

alright I got some parts from lowes tonight I'm gonna give it a shot and let you guys know. Thanks!