yeah, so i installed my kit this weekend, i didnt run into too many problems, but im starting to get annoyed, i have a problem with my vacuum on my boost gauge at idle im at -7 instead of around -20 like on my friends turbo b series.

Im burning through gas like a bitch, ive only driven 50 miles, and only went into boost 1 time, and i've gone through a half a tank of gas. I am running open downpipe temporarily and i realize that might have something to do with it but 5 gallons of gas for 50 miles

The last issue that i have at the moment is im not sure that i have my missing link hooked up right, Here is a pic of my manifold, you can see the 2 ports that i dont have anywhere to plug them into, and you can see my missing link, does anybody know if i have it hooked up right?



All help is appreciated, im starting to feel regrets about this whole thing,

Setup is
91 crx , jdm b16a obd0/ revhard turbo kit/fmu/inline pump/missing link.

Any help is appreciated.

 

are you throwing any check engine lights? is your car dog *** slow or is it pulling pretty quick. The fmu will lower your gas milage quite a bit.

 

well i havent gone into boost, so i cant say that its dog *** slow, but i have been driving really conservative since my dp is open and im not trying to get tickets and its been raining so i havent had a chance to really floor it yet,

the only time i went in boost i got a cel for the atmospheric pressure, the car stalled after that, i flipped the missing link (as you see it in the pic) around reset the ecu and took it out again but it was raining when i hit boost the wheels spun like crazy and it went all the way to 8k instantly so i let off it happend so fast that i couldnt tell if my boost gauge went up pass the zero or not but i know i hit boost at some point.

i randomly get a cel for the o2 sensor

 

what boost gauge are u running? check for vacuum leaks, make sure teflon that bitch

 

autometer, now that i think of it , i might be leaking vacuum from the gauge, i will check into it


Modified by slowpokesi at 12:54 PM 10/31/2004

 

is the missing link is on backwards?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


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damn, some of us only have microsoft paint you know, a bmp would help every now and then...lol.

anyway, the hose from the missing link looks like it tees off and then continues on into oblivion under that black solenoid. also, you look like you've got a metal hose/line the runs along the top of the intake manifold that just sorta "ends" openly right under where that black solenoid is (by it's hose clamp).

Um what disc are you using in that fmu?? do you even know?? if you've got anything like an 8:1 or up I'd definitely think about lowering to a 6:1 or a 4:1, you dont NEED anymore of a fuel pressure increase for anything below 10psi. Think about it man if your stock rail pressure is 40psi and you're using a 10:1 disc then at 4-5psi you've got 90psi rail pressure bye bye fuel and I can only imagine the pathetic spray pattern you're poor injectors are squirting out at that much pressure.

actually, hell, shoot that fmu you and get something better for fuel management

Also, I would seriously think about re-routing the vacuum lines you've got there and get rid of any, ANY vinyl lines you're using. Go get yourself about 12 feet of 1/4" vacuum hose from advance or something and a proper vacuum tree. Find a proper manifold vacuum source and start rerouting properly without teeing into the factory fuel pressure regulator for one (it doesn't like to share vacuum).

second, all factory fittings should be connected, shoot the guy that says otherwise. Use your new vacuum tree to give those other two nipples some vacuum. If you have to, get a few one way check valves to make sure they dont see boost.

 

yea that code would make the plugs look like a charcoaled hot dog.. &lt;-- I have no idea, I am bored... But it sounds a whole lot like a vacuum line pinch going to your boost gauge. And ALSO DO NOT TEE OFF THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR FOR BOOST GAUGE. Get it from somewhere else and then test it out. I had this problem for about two seconds and realized my dumb *** tee off the wrong line.. haha

 

i dont know what fmu disk i have, at the moment im kind of limited on funds for fuel management so i need to find a way to make it work , the fmu came with my kit so i assume its a 10:1 where would i get diffrent disc from?

i have about 20 feet of vacuum hose, the only tube i thought was vinyl was the boost gauge tube, it came with gauge from autometer so maybe i just thought it was vinyl and not plastic or whatever.

More than one person has backed up the not hooking those up, one of those is for cruise control, wich my car doesnt have, the other is to control the way the throttle body closes. shrug.

 

FMU = poblems!

 

well for one thing...any place where a vacuum line normaly should go into your manifold i would think that you need to cap off so you don't get a vacuum leak. I know when i removed my cruise control i was a dumbass and forgot to cap the little nipple up where the vacuum line went. Lets just say that my car idled at like 1500rpms and did some other crazy **** .

 

ive had an fmu go back twice back in the day before there was any real fuel management. the diphram broke and it was just dumping fuel at all times and didnt make the car very fun to drive

 

how can i tell if the diaphram broke? maybe thats what my problem is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i randomly get a cel for the o2 sensor</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm gonna put my money on that.

Also if you have vacuum leaks, you probably building alot more boost than you think. Vacuum leaks = same effect as a bleeder type boost controller. I'd be careful if I were you.

 

You check engine light doesnt have to be on all the time for you to be throwing a code.

 

that doesnt make sense,
i reset the ecu each time, so there is no code, when it comes on its a fresh code, even then that wouldnt cause it to run as rich as its running right now. its probably running rich because of the downpipe being open more so than the o2 sensor.