I have had a turbo kit for a while, got tired of going into limp mode in third gear, so I ordered a missing link. Seems simple enough, but I installed it the only way it seems possible and I have to tape off the side relief to keep it from sucking vacuum all the time. Then it still hits boost to the map and goes limp. A little help with a simple install would be fantastic.

 

ill answer your question, but with all the management and chip possibilities, why not go that route?

blow through the missing link. the side you cant blow through goes to the source of vacuum. (i.e. is open while under vacuum.)

 

wtf are you using a missing link for? Your asking to blow your sh*t up. Sh*t, running a xenocron basemap would be better than what your doing. I've tuned tons of various setups, I have something that could certainly run your setup for cheap that's safer than what your doing.




Modified by boostedcivicsir at 6:03 PM 11/8/2008

 

I'm just running ~8 lbs boost. all stock. I'm selling the car to a kid who just wants a good kick in the seat. I would be interested in an inexpensive management for my next project though. What is the hole in the side of the missing link for? It is on the map sensor side and just allows vacuum to vent. Thanks from a nube

 

It'a gonna end up being cheaper chipping and putting in a basemap... And will run a ton better. And you can tune it. Not worth the work to waste your time on a missing link.

 

what is a missing link? just curious what it does/how it works. dont worry im not gonna replace my ems im just curious.

 

A missing link is a check valve that goes between the map sensor and the intake to keep your map sensor from reading the pressure at boost. When it reads pressure over ~2lbs it kicks a code (CEL) and the computer goes into limp mode- Limits fuel and retards timing etc

 

so how do you get added fuel when your in boost?

 

^^^Larger injectors.....FMU........

 

Paying to fix a blown motor is more like a kick in the *****, IMO... I've never encountered a local car boosted with a missing link & fmu that hasn't blown up. Maybe in areas where they spend a few hundred tuning it on the dyno it will last, but by then its a savings of like 0.5% when you count the car, kit, motor, and tune.


A missing link is supposed to keep any possitive pressure from moving towards the MAP, and in vacuum it works as usual. The bleed hole is for when you change from high vacuum to low vac/boost - otherwise it would get stuck at reading over 25 Hg" when you decel. Pull a vacuum in a container with a check valve, it that vacuum will be maintained until you bypass the checkvalve.

In other words, your missing link is probably backwards or broken.

 

Figured out the relief hole on my missing link was too large, had to tape it off and put a small hole in the tape, thanks for the help guys.