99highmiles

I have a 99 Civic LX Sedan with 291,700 miles on it, and for a while when I would take off after the car was cold, with the gas pedal pressed, and after a few seconds it was like the car wasn't getting gas or the pedal was dead, then after a second or two, power was back, no CEL's. That recently has gotten worse and has happened once on the highway and lasted few more probably 5 seconds, then power was back. That prompted me to change the fuel filter which was well overdue for replacement. I did that in hopes it resolved the issue but last week when I was driving, same thing happened, this time the car stalled. It easily restarted and off I went and it didn't happen again the rest of the drive. This has prompted me to let the car sit in hopes I can figure out what is going on. I have heard that fuel pumps rarely go out on these cars, but at 291K miles is that still legitimate? I also am well over due to replace the plug wires, distributor cap and rotor button, but just don't know of those would cause what I am having based on some of the research I have done. I am still getting 33 mpg and the car runs fine. My end goal was to get the car to 300K miles, have owned it since 80K and at this point want to do it with minimal output of cash.

Any ideas? I will also continue to search around the site for answers.

Thanks

Joe S.

tamboo

my original fuel pump didnt even last 10 years/120k miles.
grab a rockauto cheapie or get a denso for 100 clams or so.
you'll need one eventually for sure even if it isnt the current issue.
i keep a spare in the car along with extra coil and icm and tools.
if you are prepared you wont get stranded.
the universe favors the prepared mind.

Megalodong

Or the OP can diagnose it first before randomly throwing parts at it that may not resolve the issue.

Is it a manual or automatic transmission?
Get the alternator and battery tested (free) at a parts store or purchase the data scanner mentioned below which will show output for both.

Check fuel pressure. One easy but not definitive way is, while engine is cold, loosen banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter and turn the key to the second position (do not start engine).and watch for fuel spray coming out. Have a rag and a bottle of soap water ready to clean up fuel spray
A better way is to use a live data scanner that will show fuel pressure, fuel trims and much more diagnostic information. Here's an inexpensive one: Download the Full Torque app (a few bucks) to your phone. The most accurate way is to use a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.

Check for spark quality: Part 1 -How to Troubleshoot a No Start (1.6L Honda Civic)
There's really no reason to buy cap, rotor, plugs and especially wires if the current ones are producing good quality spark.

The symptom you descibed is an intermittent one and they can be hard to track down. It may well be the fuel pump is getting weak/failing but not fully failed..always diagnose first and replace parts when issues are isolated.



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civic402lx

You still need a tune up whether or not it is the causing issue. Cap, rotor, wires and plugs. Does sound like fuel related.

Megalodong

No

civic402lx

So you are saying he doesnt need a tune up, he has it since 80k some miles, now he's at 291k. Yet the old cap, rotor, wires and plugs is still ok?
i guess im more paranoid when it comes to my car maintenances.

Megalodong

Absolutely, as long as the old parts are delivering high quality spark.

mk378

If it's manual, get going about 45 mph and shift into 5th (you would not do this normally of course) and floor it-- a heavy throttle low rpm situation really stresses the ignition. If there's misfiring especially in situations like that, some ignition parts may be needed.

tamboo

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...blems-2919450/

99highmiles

Thanks for all of the good replies. And the car has had several tune ups in its life, but is due for cap, wires and rotor button. It is an automatic. I did go ahead and put in a new fuel pump. Drove it about 40 miles, got within a block of my house and it quit running again. Tried to start for about 3 -5 minutes and it finally started and I parked it. Flash forward 8 months and it is more of a mess than before. I pretty much let it sit only starting it ever couple weeks just to try and keep the battery from dying. It got to the point that I had to jump the 3+ year old battery every time I wanted to start it, so a couple weeks ago I bought a new battery thinking, at least I can start it every now and again without the hassle of jumping it every time. After putting in the battery it started right up and I pulled it into my driveway to let it run for 5 - 10 minutes thinking I would take it for a short drive in the neighborhood. After about 8 minutes it stopped running. I cranked on it for a few minutes and it started back up. With it running I decided to spray the windshield with cleaner to clear the crud off the glass and the wiper arm broke and now the wipers won't go off, even when I pull the fuse. I also noticed that the interior door locks are not working, and the remote does nothing either. At this point I said screw it and put it back on the street. Just the other night I decided to start it and the battery is dead again. So something is killing the battery, some have suggested alternator, I wonder if the door locks have anything to do with it.

Considering all of this and the fact that I have other cars to drive I put it up for sale. What I didn't expect was a message from my sister saying she might want it. For her I would probably just give it to her, but would like to give her some idea of what she needs to look at fixing in order to get it running properly again. Wiper arm for sure, need to figure out why the battery keeps dying, and now the door locks. I will probably look at checking the alternator this weekend.

Sorry for the long reply, just wanted to put all the issues out there.

Joe S.