Changed the oil on the K20SC-EH3. Will have MUCH bigger updates as more parts arrive...

 

 

 

ej8.
swapped out the oem type R shift boot for the circuit hero shift plate which in my honest opinion looks waaaay better with the ktuned shifter.
soon as the parking brake brackets came in (which i have no clue what happened to the original ones. thrown away by me? very very likely smh) it was go time! the parking brake cables were the most challenging feeding them back into the cab. oh and that heat shield didn't help either. hold my beer.
drum to disc swap is done. upgraded the bushings with hardrace: camber kit arms, toe arms, lca's and trailing arms. now just gotta button up the parking brake and interior, swap out the proportioning valve and remove and replace front brake pads and swap out oem brake hose to goodridge braided steel lines. bleed system. top off. pray.
aloha

hideous!



damn bracket held up progress!



removed, it is...



aaaahhhhhhh



meh



ooooohhhh
(am i the only one who couldn't put on that damn rubber insert that came with this CH shift plate?!)

 

325whp@12-13psi on a Mustang dyno. That'd be closer to 350whp+ on a DynoJet since Mustang dynos read lower than DynoJet.

More info can be found in my dedicated thread HERE.

Here's a video clip though:

 

Say what? You have V-6 swapped EG? Damn...

What application did you buy the Konis and H&R for - Integra?

 

Do you plan on running a 15k change interval?

 

Need to have the option to "like" posts...

 

Agreed...

 

I plan on sending an oil sample out for analysis at 5K, and go from there.

 

nice

 

 

Went to swap the brake booster for the proper size one for the car and when I went to bleed the brakes (after the bench bleed of the master cylinder), the very first bleeder bolt snapped off.

Needless to say, this turned into a full brake job of the rears (fronts still have lots of meat) with replacing both wheel cylinders, new shoes and turned drums.

Old small (EF?) booster replaced with 95 DX booster and master cylinder:



The old brake (passenger rear) that the bleeder bolt snapped on:




The pretty and shiny new wheel cylinder, shoes, springs and clips:



The turned drum that's been sitting in a bag for the past 9 months waiting for this job to be done:



Wash rinse and repeat on the drivers rear.

After that, the bleed went smoothly.

The one part I did forget was to put sealant on the back side of the wheel cylinders so tomorrow, I will brake clean the back plate where the cylinder comes out real good, then do a small bead of "The right stuff" black and seal it on the outside. That stuff will take the beating nicely.

 

So I don't have much experience with drum brakes... is there any kind of adjustment in the rears? I don't mean the Ebrake. The new hatch has a presumably-broken ebrake cable so I had my wife sit in the car while I jacked it up. When I jacked up the front, with her standing on the brake pedal, the car still rolled forward with every pump on the jack. I was also able to turn the rear tires (albeit with some force) with her hard on the brakes. I don't feel like this is normal.

 

It sounds like both you guys have an opportunity to go disc brake in the rear...

 

Where did you buy your Goodridge lines?

 

It's my wife's car. She wants it stock.

The only other option is if I could source the Si rears, then it's still "stock'ish" for the era. She's getting the Si door cards and has the JDM black center arm rest. And I will be putting the Z6 with automatic ECU in it soon.

Just trying to get the brakes working properly and good at the moment.

 

And aren't the Si rear discs same as Integra? Mo' options...

Not trying to be critical, I just hate rear drums...

 

Not sure, thought the tegs were a touch larger.

Also have heard rear disc has been known to have some issues. Drum seems to be the tried and true for problem free. Just brake fade issues but my wife doesn't drive like a bat out of hell like I tend to. *shrug*

 

I too feel drum are just plain trouble free. Simple and effective. I did a drum to disc on my old eg and it never felt right.
i have drum on my current ek and it is great.

 

MKSHIFT.NET.
their webpage is under construction atm. but u can email them @sales.mkshift.net for product inquiries. they are based in hawaii. check out their IG @mkshift.

 

i'm hoping for the best with my really really recent drum to disc swap! i'm just gonna have to deal with it if it becomes a reoccurring problem since i dropped off the drum+trailing arms at the metal recycling. i've read and heard mixed reviews about the swap and they seem to be more positive but we shall see how well i did the swap in a week or two.

 

Disc are easier and quicker to change and replace when it's time. Also look better.
on my eg. I did rear disc from a ex model of same year. 15/16 MC, 40/40 prop valve. SS brake lines. Even with all that, it still feel soft. Pedal travel is far down near the floor before it feel the grab. No issue with stopping but thar far travel and soft feeling i never did like. Would it be different if i swap in the booster also? Dont know. I tried everything to get the firmness pedal feel but couldn't. Now with my current ek with stock set up, it grab high and pedal feel firm. Albeit with all new pads and drums.

 

Well that would suck to go through all the work of the swap and then end up a spongy pedal feel. Maybe that is the bad news people are talking about...