Hmm that looks kinda low....get a soldering iron lol

 

Its definitely the lowest point on the car but its not sitting terribly close to the ground. Its higher than it was when I made that extra piece. And as far as the soldering work goes I cannot solder worth a crap with an iron lol. I hope you don't think this looks bad because if that looks bad you really don't want to see my work with an iron.

Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to finish the car up. I am literally 5 or 6 wires and adding antifreeze from being ready for the dyno day.

 

Yes I totally agree with you. I am a big time K series fan. The only deciding factor for me is since the car has ps/ac I will definitely want to retain that so I am going to look into cheaper routes to retro fit these things than Hybrid racing. No that there parts aren't good just more of the fact that they would cost an additional 600 bucks.

 

u just need a good iron thats all, at the end of the day looks dont matter much we solder wires so they wont pull apart, i just feel an iron is easier/better results.

hope your pipes dont scrape on speed bumps etc

 

I sure hope I don't run into issues with it scraping. I know the pics look incredibly low but its not as bad in person. Only time will tell but regardless this isn't my permanent solution.

 

I think you’re IC piping is fine. Mine sat pretty low with the mini ram manifold and I never scraped it, even going over huge speed bumps and inadvertently hitting big bumps at higher speed lol. You should be fine.

Cant wait to she your car tuned 👍 Good luck!

 

Hope your right, that pic where it shows the piping pretty far below the tow hook just looks incredibly low, maybe its just the angle like the Op stated time will tell

 

I'd REALLY try to get that lower pipe to sit higher..

 

the only way its getting any higher is if I cut a section out of the pipe coming up to the throttle body. But then I think I would be introducing a new angle in the piping which was the original issue. I will take pictures and measure it when it is off the jack stands but the angle of the photo alone really doesn't help my case.

 

My first kswap was in an EK and you talk about low that oil pan was down there man. It scared me to death. I had to readjust my coilovers as the oil pan was 4.5 inches off the ground. I do trust you guys on this though, believe me I am not trying to avoid the issue. My tuner is also the fab guy that did my manifold and I am pretty sure he is comfortable with welding aluminum. I got to go to him after black Friday for a deal on my tune so we will definitely be discussing this issue then. I probably wont even install the bumper until I re do it.

 

ok so here it is. This is the ignition wiring. I have already wired the entire switch panel other than the power to it. I have tested it hooked to power and everything works.

The dull red wire that runs to the push button start continues to the main switch to give the other switches power. The bright red wire runs the power to the other switches and an additional acc I assume for gauges or whatever needed. The white wire runs back as a signal to engage the starter. This is where I am confused. Should that be going to the relay box to a certain relay? I included a pic of the ignition box wires and a color code for wires but I feel that if I tie into that imma cause a fire. Any advice on where to tie in the push button start? I can find an acc power fuse location no problem.

White is 12V+ input, [hot at all times]
Black/white is starter, [hot during cranking to start].
Black/yellow is ign. 1, [hot is run and start].
White/black is ign. 2, [hot in run].
Yellow is acc., [hot in acc. and run].

There are no grounds.

 

Wired up everything but the push button start. That can wait a few days but for now the dash panel turns on when I turn the key to acc so I am happy for now.
Finished almost everything on my car today. Should be able to drive it tomorrow and burp the coolant system. Hoping all goes well. Wednesday I am dropping the car off for valve springs and a K tuned timing chain tensioner. Friday I will be at the shop with JT for tuning. Looks like this will be an eventful week but only time will tell!

 

Pretty sure starter signal goes directly to starter, no need to goto a relay thats What starter solenoid is for. Use a continuity test off the ignition switch to find which wire, gonna be one of the skinny ones for sure

 

First thing I noticed.... Dope *** dragonball z shift ****

 

If you act quickly you may be able to find one of the other 6

 

Yeah I am going to look more into it soon as the dyno is over. For now I have to do a new master brake cylinder, clutch slave cylinder and wire in the ethanol sensor. Forgot all about those things but Ill get it done first thing tomorrow.

Well thank you good sir. I got that in an old wagovan I had bought when I was going for an awd setup. looking back that was an expensive shift ****. I salvaged the car and took all the rt4wd parts. I still have them but have yet to decide what to do with them.

I'm currently in search for 6 more. Maybe I will wish for my car to be done lol.

 

No pictures of todays progress but really no need for them. I installed a new master brake cylinder for the sick speed were about to hit. Then I bled all four corners. Installed a clutch slave cylinder and bled it. it has a light feel for about the first two inches and then firms up. I bled it for a good 30 mins with a rental hand pump that worked great. Witnessed the bubbles escape the reservoir. But I don't care for the pedal feel. I suppose being my first heavy clutched Honda this could be normal. The first couple inches of the pedal feel like the stock clutch then it firms up like some other heavy clutches I've had. When I start it up I will know for sure but I don't think that I can adjust it regardless unless I invest in something after market.

Tomorrow I will install the new gas tank, run the power, ground and out signal for the flexfuel sensor, start the car and burp the coolant system. Finally I may just get to see it run more than 5 seconds!

Original plans were to have the car done today and drive it under light throttle to ensure the new trans shifts well, coolant is burped, and anything else that could be wrong would be recognized and fixed before dropping it off for the dyno. But the universe hasn't worked in the favor of this so tomorrow I will be finishing it all up. I may even call off of work and drive it on down to the shop who knows. Regardless I am hoping to have it tuned and running good Friday, as always plan for set backs and hope they don't happen lol.

 

Sounds good overall man. Hope it all works out, hell yeah!

 

With the history I have had since august of last year, I am very happy to just have a complete car now. It seems like its going to do well, fingers crossed.

 

So a small update. The car is at JT's shop and he has been hard at work on it. Today he pulled the timing cover off the engine and found that the chain has a little stretch. I would hope and assume that being a 79k engine and knowing it came from hmotorsonline that its just a stretched chain rather than a shaved head or deck. So off to Honda we went to get an oem timing chain. While he installs my 82lbs supertech dual valve springs he is doing valve seals and a ktuned tensioner as well.

At this point we are hoping to tune the car Saturday. I will get some good footage of the the process on the street and some final pulls on the dyno as he lines out the e85 setup.

I also picked up a set of fiberglass NRG seats for the car two days ago. I was originally wanting kirkleys for it but I got a great deal. Two Racequip 4 point harnesses, Two NRG fixed back seats in mint condition, and Two fixed EG rails that fit the seats for 280 bucks. Also I pulled them out of my friends EG hatch so I can assume that they fit perfectly. The main concern I have is that I wonder if they need a support on the back attaching to the roll cage that I don't have yet. I know with kirkley seats its a mandatory item for safety sake. These being made out of fiberglass and not having an area to attach to a roll bar does spook me a little.

 

Oh what a headache I have created, I have to laugh at myself really! I just realized that Summits typical SS line is rubber based no PTFE. All of my hoses are rubber based and I plan to run e85 through it Saturday. Now obviously this is something that will be addressed asap but do you guys feel a tank to 2 tanks of e85 for the sake of tuning will destroy these hoses? I can stay with 93 octane fuel after the tune until I can afford to put the right hoses in the car. Its a shame really, I have about 25 foot of SS hose ran in that car....SMDH. Its these type of mistakes that get made on your first full on build at home I would guess lol.

For those that scratch your head at me saying I will run 93 until I can replace the lines, I am doing a 93 and e85 tune with a gm flex tune sensor.

 

I wouldn't risk running E85 through those lines if they aren't rated for it. I have absolutely 0 experience with E85 as it's not readily available in my area, but you've put a lot of work into this build and I would hate for you to somehow pull a bunch of gunked up/deteriorated garbage from E85 chewing up the fuel lines and then block your rail/injectors or whatever. Seems potentially risky on the catastrophic level if you get unlucky.

Personally I think you should try to stay straight 93 for right now, and get those lines switched ASAP before trying E85. Just my .02, I'd play it safe.