^^ just have greg fabricate the correct piping if needed

 

My thinking exactly

 

I may have a picture of it all off of the car. If I can't find a picture I will take some detailed photos of it on the car. the issue is that a type r manifold ( I don't remember the code, RBC I believe) slants back and upward. My intake is squared to the engine and parallel with the ground so it makes for a bad angle off of the intake to the bottom pipe.

 

Is greg the owner of Go Autoworks? I may get up with him and try to get some custom piping if I cannot alleviate the issue with that 30 degree boot. I still have that spare pipe that I can cut all to hell. If I end up using that spare pipe I will just have a friend run a weld around the piping to replicate a bead rolled pipe.

I am also trying to get the bend of the pipe farther towards the driver side because if you look at the photos its in the way of a great spot for a jack stand.

 

lol the person posting under autoworks is greg lol.

 

What bugs me about that piping is the flange welded onto the turbo flange. It isn't fully welded (because of the bolt holes) and it seems like it's a guaranteed exhaust leak in those areas. Is it welded inside the flange as well or just the outside?

 

Yes

IMO, K swap charge piping is beyond tricky. There are too many mount/radiator/intake manifold combinations to make a "basic it fits" kit. I would first take that hotside U bend routing around the frame and try to get it as high as possible (about an inch away from hitting the frame rail...enough room for torque/vibration w/o it touching). That is probably going to throw off that cut down 90 hard pipe that is connecting to the 90 degree coupler at the FMIC; but you need to do that to get lower cold pipe room to move up and go around the frame comfortably without the pipes hitting. It will also take that bind out of that hump hose coupler angle.That should make your bind /angle issue more visible/workable.

You don't really want to try to route a 3" cold pipe and a 2.5" beneath the frame rail. There just isn't ample room unless you plan on bolting the pipes together to avoid vibration contact.
Here's a 3" cold pipe w/ that manifold. In your case w/ a turbo app I would have made it 2.5" and turned it 90 down off the TB to create room (avoiding the shifter) and run it as low as possible to leave room for another pipe to run above it...but again, different radiators etc make that extremely difficult to jig and accomodate w/o it being in front of you.


(disclaimer...I know nothing about K Mod, what he does, or how he does things. Not here to discredit or compare what we do to what they do [I don't get down like that]...just giving my $.02 on the application and what you can do to solve an issue that is going to without a doubt come up if the fitment is left how it is)

 

No one here would ever compare Kmod to Go-Auto anyway. That's apple to oranges, black to white, crap to gold.

If you ever publicly sold full K turbo kits I think you'd pretty much immediately own the market. The only good manufacture right now I can think of that makes full K kits is Full-Race (I'm not thinking very hard here if there are any competitors).

 

Not to play devil's advocate, Greg, but would you really want to get into all of that? Considering this exact question regarding intercooler piping alone is one reason why I don't think anyone would ever want to without inherent risk and additional fitment work. There are so many variables and physical changes with these types of k-swaps, compared to b-series that it'll make your head spin. ( then again, that was said about B series swaps in other Civic chassis over 20 years ago, although, to be fair, B series engines from the factory were always available in Civics, just not in the US, until the EM1 was created).

Very nice disclaimer indeed.

 

If I had I K i would be looking at sheepy . but yeaah I guess your right not full kits availible

 

Prolly a threadjack, but greg does offer 8th gen civic kits now. We completed the install and dyno tuned on hanky kraftwerks si. Great results. And that chassis was way more complex

 

It's not a threadjack, but the point being made is that it's hard to have kits made for older chassis with a K-swap in them, not more recent cars that have a k-series engine as a standard from the factory.. It would be insane for Greg to do that for k-swapped engines in say 92-95 civic.

 

I've done a few full K Swap kits...and each of them was different in one way or another. Different enough for me to not list them online as readily available. I see a few try to sell them...and you see consistent issues such as the ones in this thread (though some of these issues were absolutely avoidable)

Example, I built the kit in this feature. At the time I just happened to have a K swap car sitting here to build the complete kit (including ordering the intake manifold here), fit it, then remove it and ship it all (along w/ a few others that you really wouldn't know unless you read the fine print...)

K20 Honda Civic Si - Both Worlds


Your right for those exact reasons. To sell a K swap FULL KIT now you have to sell it with a " this intake manifold, radiator, mounts, relocate this, that disclaimer" and even then you still have to weed out x things to minimize the headaches. Selling/building parts of a kit is rather simple.

Thanks man, I'll have to save those pics

That 8th Gen kit only became available a a full kit because a client came in to get a kit he already had replaced in pieces (first the hot parts, then the FMIc/piping). At that point I'm able to make notes, build, jig parts, make pipe separations etc. to make a fairly straight forward production/reproducible kit. K swap cars you're going in "blind" so to speak because there's just so many ways to set one up when it comes to a COMPLETE layout.
Honestly, I have a client scheduled for Jan with a K EG that has purchased the bulk of his parts swap pieces from here; those pieces probably being the most common of K swap stuff. He will turbo it...that will probably come as a kit soon to follow with a specific/non deviating parts list as far as fit/position goes...

 

He did in fact weld up the inside as well as grind down the edge of the t3 flange to try and have less turbulence from choking down to the t3 opening in such a small space. He left the bolt holes like that so I could one day move back to a t4 if I so choose to.

 

I do agree, so many variables when it comes to a Kswap. so many different mount kits and positions alone, much less radiator location and size. I haven't had the chance to work on the car as of the last few days but I will be addressing this fitment issue when I do.

 

Oh that's great!

 

Ok so today I cut that extra piece of piping all to hell until I made it fit the angle of the piping. I took pictures but forgot to upload them before work so that's going to have to wait. The good thing it there is now no issue with fitment and the couplers are all straight. The bad news is it still sits rather low (about as low as the oil pan but farther forward. Because of how well it worked I will most likely still order 30 degree coupler and see how that treats me. I just hate to eye ball it and buy one.

Having that fixed, I took out my radio and began installing the dash board rocker switch panel. When I was pulling all the wires through I found out that my glove box is literally broke all to hell in the back So....I decided to cut the back out and run the relays inside the glove box. There is actually 4 screws holding the glove box together that worked great for holding the relays so at this point that's where they will stay.

I have already wired up the fuel pump with a 70 amp relay (overkill I know) and tested it. It's a walbro 450 running 8 gauge wire, and 70 amp relay so I don't plan on running short of a power source. The weird part is I cant get anymore than 15 psi to the rail. I had a local tuner send a basemap to me so I could start it and bleed the coolant but It will not fire. He knows the injector size, map sensor, turbo setup and fuel setup. His base map wouldn't fire at all. I tried my own tune and just changed the injector size and iacv ( was previously deleted) and it would spit and sputter but it wouldn't start. This was all on Kpro. I still don't understand why the fuel rail wouldn't get but 15 psi. I checked all over for leaks and even took the FPR apart and cleaned it well. The FPR wasn't stuck but I did find some gunk in it that scared me. it was from this gasket maker I bought when I first built the car. It was supposed to be petroleum safe but I don't think it was because it got all inside the fuel pressure reg. The FPR was fine when I parked the car but that's been over a year ago. I did clean it out though so Idk if that's the culprit or if its not ment to make more pressure until start up. I know that the stock system primes for 2 seconds then shuts off, then turns back on when the engine starts. I had this hard wired with the relay. Also I will be running it to the dash panel rather than running it off the old fuel pump wiring as a remote.

I do remember previously with my old engine when I would do a cold start it wouldn't make the full 50psi until it started but it would hold it for a few mins afterwards. Right now as soon as I let the pump turn off the fuel pressure instantly drops back down to 0psi. Is it possible that my local tuner didn't set it up correct for the injectors and they are pushing out so much fuel that they aren't hold pressure at the rail? Before I say its anyone elses fault though, I haven't connected the coolant temp sensor because the k tuned coolant neck adapter hasn't came in yet. I would imagine this sensor plays a vital role in cold starts.

 

I would say no, either way u should get full fuel pressure with key on (Your car is not yet running so injectors are completely closed) your coolant temp sensor is not going to have anything to do with this either.

if your pump is working properly you have a bad/leaky line or fpr is returning too much fuel to build pressure.

One time I secured the inlet to my bseries fuel rail with a d series washer/nut on the rail the design did not allow fuel through and I had a similar issue to what you have - just an idea


I think it has to do with your wiring or the fpr is not adjusted properly/broken
After reading this a few times definitely sounds like fpr is returning too much fuel


Not sure​​​​​​ why you don't use oem fuel pump wiring, I guess I'm a sucker for keeping things oem, I also used a relay but the oem wiring triggers the relay so that circuit functions like stock

 

The only reason I didn't use the oem wiring as a trigger was honestly to fill a spot on the dash panel. I know that may sound dumb but I did it for effect when people go for a ride. I am going to look into issues with the fpr and fuel pump because I have not found a leak but when I turn the pump on I start smelling fuel in the car. I seen it coming out around the seal of the pump hanger but didn't have time to mess with it before work. I didn't replace the seal but I did inspect it and honestly it looked very fresh as did the oem fuel pump. I am going to inspect it all again when I have time.

When I had the fpr out for cleaning I had the fuel line that connects it to the fuel rail in a bucket and turned the pump on. It is definitely flowing without an issue but doesn't seem to have much pressure. but in a -6 an ss line Idk how much pressure its going to really have without a resistance such as the fpr. But because of this I know for sure that the inline filter is flowing and so is the fuel rail so I am really becoming suspicious of the fpr like you are.

 

I would say something like a water hose, it's not gonna have a ton of pressure free flowing like that but at the same time it should be pouring out pretty good, the fpr is what's gonna build up the pressure

 

Well I have been sick for the past week or so, haven't had much time to invest in the car as well. I did find a rookie mistake and fix my problem with the fuel pressure. I will go ahead and flame myself here as I made a dumb mistake. I didn't put hose clamps on the fuel line connecting the fuel pump to the hanger. So first big mistake in the build, I'll take it.

Anywho fuel pressure is at 70 psi with the FPR adjusted all the way out. I noticed a plastic insert in it so I am going to take it back apart, remove the insert and install -6 ss line for the return rather than stock. Still have a lot of work left and a ton of wiring before dyno day. I haven't setup a dyno appointment yet but I am hoping to have it done before December, given the weather works in my favor.

 

get errrrrrrrr done bud

 

Well I installed the 30 degree elbow
today and BAM! That fixed every issue the charge pipes had. I then tightened down all my clamps and finished some other stuff up.

I've been feeling better so I took advantage of the decent weather and did work. I fixed the issue at the fuel pump and removed the insert on the FPR. Before I was making at the lowest 62psi on the rail. Now without the insert the lowest is 40psi. I adjusted it to 50psi. The only thing I am noticing is that the fuel pressure still doesn't hold when I turn the pump off, this bothers me because it used to hold pressure for a few minutes after shutting the car down. I Installed the coolant sensor relocation piece and sensor. Wired in the sensor (I don't know why but I cut the wires off when I pulled the old engine.) . Wired up the coolant fan switch.

I hooked the battery up and even with all the things I did today still no dice. The engine turns over and will fire but just for a second. I am pretty sure that I don't have any discrepancies in my wiring but I am going to double check next chance I get to work on it. I decided that maybe I should put the stock injectors in and try that on my old tune. That wouldn't run either. As I am typing, I just realized I didn't adjust the stock tune for the 4 bar map, so I will try that as well. The car tries to start but something just isn't right. I have checked spark on every plug and I am getting a good white color. I don't know how to check injector pulse but I can strongly smell semi burnt fuel when cranking the engine.

I still have some things to finish such as a ton of wiring, so I am going to just clean everything up and get that stuff done. Then when its all put together I will retry tracing this problem down. If I can't figure it out, as bad as I don't want to, I will have the shop that is going to do the tuning double check everything. I want a running car before I drop it off. I don't want them to have to deal with potential leaks, burping the coolant, making sure everything is installed correctly etc.

I took photos today of some stuff but didn't have time to upload it before work. I will try to upload them on the next update.

Also I picked up a 96 civic ex with a spun crank bearing from a friend for 500 bucks. Clean body, no dents, no rust, no leaks. Clean interior with a 1 in tear in driver seat. I haven't decided yet but I am either going to do a rebuild on the d16y8 or a base model K series since I already have a set of EK Hasport mounts, a dash harness, immobilizer and a ton of spare K series parts.

 

Nice!

My vote is K...and I like the D series motors (just not a D16Y w/ a bearing issue already [part the motor out] )

 

I got a ton of work done today. Not sure if the pics and video with upload with my phone but I got the car started and done the majority of wiring.