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Honestly the original idea (as if no ones done it) was to keep a pretty much stock engine and just stay that way until failure. Of course when my cuz blew mine all to hell that threw a wrench in the gears. I guess at this point its a patience thing.
That happens, I was looking for some more parts, then on new years day two of my dogs got into it and cost me a pretty penny... So I am in a holding pattern right now. LOL
I just witnessed a stock internal k20 with boltons put down 241 hp. I was pretty dang impressed. Be patient, it will come in time.
Back again with another glorified update. I still have the car and plan to finish it, however I finished the trans swap in my Cobalt SS just a couple weeks ago in time to drop 1800 dollars in federal taxes that I owed. (luckily the worst part of the divorce).
I am at it again saving up money for the engine. After that I'm a mear 500ish bucks from finishing the build.
Thanks man, Im at just under 1k saved up now and looking into wiring for the fuel pump, a new underhood wiring harness with fusebox, and of course an engine. After all this is bought the install begins. Im a few pay days away and my guess I won't have the car ready by the end of the race season.
Well the time has come that I must make a tough decision. I haven't been able to even work on this build do to countless setbacks over the last year. I have lost hope in the build and sometimes regretted buying all the turbo components to only come up so short.
With that all being said I just purchased a K20z1 from HMotorsOnline, fuel components, wiring, supertech valve springs, M H slicks, and 13 inch lenso wheels. Ive been talking to D-Rob from innovative motorworks about the tune, engine selection, and valve springs. I will most likely setup a 2 step launch and boost by gear. Also a sure thing is my flexfuel sensor and a 93 octane/e85 tune.
Without a doubt I can now finally say the build is back on! Excited isn't the word that does justice for how I feel at the moment!
Future additions after the car is back on the road and tuned will include a full race traction bar, chromoly cage, and two kirkey seats.
Can I get opinions on how to run my vacuum lines? I provided the diagram as my stab at how I will run things but I am uncertain if this is acceptable or even functional. I realize the first thing that may be said is that the wastegate needs its own supply of vacuum. the only sole reason I would think this is fine is because it is on such a big vacuum line. Keep in mind that this is the first time I have pieced a turbo setup together.
So after a ton of research today I have learned a little more about how to route my vacuum lines. I have learned that letting a wastegate experience vacuum is a bad thing and could harm the diaphragm. So a boost reference for the wastegate should be pre throttle body do to this. I already knew that the waste gate needs its own source (vacuum line) without any tee's. And I learned that if I route the BOV pre throttle body then it will not function correctly if at all. This makes since to me considering a vacuum causes the bov to open and when the throttle body closes the intake manifold goes back to a vacuum rather than a boosted condition. And the wastegate uses the boost pressure to over power the spring and opens the wastegate to insure the turbo provides consistent boost pressure. I would assume that I could avoid overspeeding the turbo in the case of a boost leak somewhere in the plumbing, if I used the comp housing as a boost reference for the boost controller and waste gate correct? That theory makes me believe the compressor housing is the best place to tap for a boost reference. If I were to tap from the piping somewhere I would have to have someone weld it all up with a plate, plus it already has a nice coating that I don't wish to ruin.
I've ordered a ton of parts and received a lot of them within the last week. Im completely confident in myself but would love some input from FI forum regulars!
Also having a fun time figuring this one out. This came on my piping from Kmod. I had assumed this was a place to put the 4 bar map which makes no sense but it's not.
So after a ton of research today I have learned a little more about how to route my vacuum lines. I have learned that letting a wastegate experience vacuum is a bad thing and could harm the diaphragm. So a boost reference for the wastegate should be pre throttle body do to this. I already knew that the waste gate needs its own source (vacuum line) without any tee's. And I learned that if I route the BOV pre throttle body then it will not function correctly if at all. This makes since to me considering a vacuum causes the bov to open and when the throttle body closes the intake manifold goes back to a vacuum rather than a boosted condition. And the wastegate uses the boost pressure to over power the spring and opens the wastegate to insure the turbo provides consistent boost pressure. I would assume that I could avoid overspeeding the turbo in the case of a boost leak somewhere in the plumbing, if I used the comp housing as a boost reference for the boost controller and waste gate correct? That theory makes me believe the compressor housing is the best place to tap for a boost reference. If I were to tap from the piping somewhere I would have to have someone weld it all up with a plate, plus it already has a nice coating that I don't wish to ruin.
I've ordered a ton of parts and received a lot of them within the last week. Im completely confident in myself but would love some input from FI forum regulars!
use the vaccum manifold for vaccum. And run the wastegate from the compressor. Wastegate shouldnt see vacuum, your correct. Pic below looks like its for the MAF
Also having a fun time figuring this one out. This came on my piping from Kmod. I had assumed this was a place to put the 4 bar map which makes no sense but it's not.
That's for an intake air temperature sensor. Obd1 style with a circular connector.
Hmm I will have to text Marquise at Kmod and verify with him about that then. Is this something common guys are running on their turbo K cars? I know it makes since to know the IAT's but IIRC I already can through Kpro.
Hmm I will have to text Marquise at Kmod and verify with him about that then. Is this something common guys are running on their turbo K cars? I know it makes since to know the IAT's but IIRC I already can through Kpro.
But the Kpro has to read an IAT sensor voltage in order to show it to you.It is common for IAT sensor bungs to be relocated to the intercooler intake pipe after the charge air has cooled. this is to ensure that you have an efficient intercooler.
Confirmed: it is an IAT sensor bung. So, this is normal. Keep proceeding forward, sir.
Good call! didn't think about it being post IC. I was looking at 92-95 model sensors and plug ins online last night. Gonna try a local Honda salvage yard first.
Going to get some work done tomorrow on the car. Will be the first opportunity I have had yet since ordering everything. I'll try and snap some pics, gonna start the fuel system!
First off is to clean the car out. When I parked it last year after the incedent, I left a half roll of paper towels and well it seems a not so welcome friend got in and tore them all to pieces. Then I will pull the seats and maybe the dash. Not sure on the dash yet but I am trying to find the problem with my blower motor to the hvac. I may find the harness and hook to straight power to try and rule either a bad motor or possible relay/fuse <<<The one I'm hoping for! My race spec dash ignition switch board is going in place of the hvac so my plan (as ghetto as this may sound) is to leave the hvac on heat and defrost, hide the hvac panel in the dash and just run power to the blower on one of my toggles in the board. I figure at this rate I am offering the engine and turbo extra cooling, and without a/c I wont need the blower on cold anyway. That can be subject to change though. Also I plan to plumb the turbo coolant inlet from the heater core return, if I do that I will have to leave it on heat or else the turbo wont get a moving supply of coolant. Thus hiding the panel will lead to less errors. The thought is there to just take out the shut off valve on the heater hose.
First major install is my fuel system. the parts list starts with a walbro 450lph (400 ethanol), 70 amp relay, and 8 gauge wire. (overkill? no worries is what I had in mind). Deatchewerks 1300cc injectors, hybrid racing fuel rail and FPR. The lines start with a metric to -6 fitting in place of the banjo bolt on the fuel pump hanger, then straight to -6 an line all the way to a earls in line filter just before the fuel rail. Then a -6 to -8 reducer to fit the rail. the other side of the rail is -8 ( what came with the rail) to a reducer on the FPR, then a return -6 line with push lock fittings onto a gm ethanol sensor. Then return to the tank. I'm really scratching my head when I try to remember what I did with my kpro box. Im pretty sure it has the adapter for the gm sensor to the k pro ecu. like a fool I didn't just sit this on a shelf in a closet.
UPDATE: The car is starting to come together very nicely now. I have installed all the components to the new engine including flywheel, stage 5 clutchmasters 4 puck sprung, Drive shaft shop 2.9 axles (my weak point which scares the **** out of me) and all the little things off the old engine.
Bolted up the transmission to the engine and in the car she went. installed the new injectors and my hybrid racing fuel rail. Walbro 450 is about to be put into the tank, -6 feed line is already ran except for a part I am waiting to receive to adapt it to the -8 fuel rail.
I plan to run the stock fuel return line as its only 1/16th of an inch smaller but before the stock return line I am placing the ethanol sensor away from heat below the fpr.
I'm really close to starting the engine up and then its off to the fab shop to fix my manifold.
Had a huge misunderstanding with KMOD. Their site shows the sidewinder mani with a t3 or t4 option. BUT if you buy it in a hot pipes set then it only comes in a t4. I was asked by marquise specifically if I had a t4 housing and I quote (that looks like a t4 turbo, is it?) but due to answering several questions at once I did not see it and did not reply to that specific question. Long story short I was sent a t4 mani which now I know that the site states a t3 isn't an option. Marquise wanted a hefty fee to fix the manifold SO I opted out and found a local good reputable fab shop.
I was very angry with marquise and how he got out of the issue because he did ask if it was a t4 but was never told for sure. Also he had told me before in a previous conversation that he would fix the issue if I pay shipping. I was angry because I can buy the t3 mani from him but not in a hot pipes kit which doesn't make sense and I honestly wonder to this day if he purposely changed the web site as he sent me a screen shot of the page where it is stated, hours later. BUT I am over it and I will finish this build as its took long enough as it is and I am ready to drive it once more. I just wanted to share this information not in saying that he has shotty products because they do look very nice, just be careful and precise with marquise when you order. Also he will not talk to you on the phone, text only. That in its own seems shady and poor for business but what do I know? I will admit my own faults though as this is my first time piecing together a turbo setup rather than doing a kit, mistakes will be made and I am sure its not the last one.
Now with that out of the way I just want to say its been a long road and I do feel like I am closing in on some results finally!
If you just google "KMOD review", you'll find nothing but negative experiences from them. They're to be avoided, and have been known for quite some time to be shifty.
Yeah man unfortunately I figured this out about one big order too late. I am very good friends with a guy that I met at the track, him and marquise are tight and he was strongly recommending KMOD. I didn't really question KMOD due to that but I am well aware now, unfortunately.
What makes that all suck even more is for the final price after having his mani fixed and a different v band put on my down pipe, I will have the same amount in his hot pipes as I would a sheepy built hot pipe setup. I shouldn't have cut the corner but I did see an easy 300 to 400 dollar difference....upon ordering that is.
Ok so HUGE update time!
I have been working on the car for a couple a weeks now but haven't took the time to update this thread. sadly all the previous images are not gonna show but from here out I will post the pictures through the forum.
Lets start with a small and short showcase of all the mistakes Kmod made and how Kmod refused to help fix any mistakes, much less speak to me. I was lucky enough to speak to marquise on the phone rather than text for the first time a few days ago and it still got me no where. He assumed I had a t4 flange and so he put a t4 on the mani. he said he would fix it for me for 380 dollars. Given that we did not agree on whos fault this was I outsourced to a semi local fab shop Called freedom motorworx in Oak ridge TN near Knoxville. Let me just say JT at freedom motorworx is hands down a great guy and he knows what he is doing. he was fair on pricing the work and fixed way more than just a flange. So I also had the wrong v band flange on the down pipe which was my mistake so I had JT put the correct one in place. Once the mani and down pipe flanges were fixed we ran into another issue. The down pipe in no way shape or form would fit below the mani and when we worked it to fit it would not line up to the turbo. when it lined up with the turbo it didn't fit under the mani without being at an awful angle in the converter area. So a few pie cuts and added pieces of 3 in stainless pipe later, the down pipe was usable and looked really nice. Then the next issue. the dump off the waste gate is to atmosphere which I prefer, but it was only about a foot long with about a 70 degree angle at the end to point it downward. If left untouched at that length it would have been shooting hot air and flames for a good 1.5 feet between the engine, battery, harness and firewall on its adventure to the ground. I could expect this from an ebay turbo kit but dammit man come on!.
Now with the hot pipes squared away and on the car you would believe I am good to go? Wrong. the intercooler piping was clearly meant for a type r type of intake mani rather than a stock k20z1 mani. That wouldn't have been an issue if I had known but KMOD's web page does not mention this one time and in the single conversation I had with marquise on the phone he directly told me this is not an issue and the piping will still fit. He then told me to cut a piece of the 45 degree pipe in the kit and that would give the correct fitment. not wanting to do this because I paid for a bead rolled pipe kit! I simply sized it up while he was on the phone and told him I don't think it will work. He did not fix this issue either he simply said well I don't know then. In the pictures you can see that their is a really bad angle for the intake mani pipe to the bottom intercooler pipe that would not work by shortening the IC pipe. knowing I was on my own I went ahead and ordered two hump style couplers and removed the 45 degree pipe from the equation. It's by far not perfect but will do until I save up for a custom setup from freedom motorworx. And the last complaint I have is the T bolts in the kit were 3 inch and my piping was 2.5 inch....you do the math! this last issue was why marquise actually had a conversation on the phone with me. His statement was "We never have this happen, I'm going to need a few pictures because I am having a hard time believing you." for real man? Great customer service. I supplied the photos of every last thing he wanted and he agreed to send me a shipping label. That has been almost 2 weeks ago and I never received the shipping label. I ordered my own t bolts from an online source called silicone intakes and guess what they were the same brand but the correct size and worked perfectly, go figure?
Now that my Rant/Review of KMOD is complete I will say this, I will never buy from him again. Its a shame I didn't google reviews on his company before dropping 3300 bucks on a single order because apparently this is the norm when dealing with marquise.
Last edited by GoldieWang; 10-11-2017 at 12:47 PM.
So I had the trans rebuilt at Freedom motorworx while the car was there. Simple rebuild with synchrotech hardware and a wavetrac lsd. I also need to mention that the car was at Freedom motorworx for a week and one day. He does great work and gets it done in a timely manner. the rest of the photos are just of basic fitment and such. The car is literally a couple hours work from being started FINALLY! It was a long road dealing with everything that has happened in the last year and not im not exactly there yet. But I will say I am so glad I had support from friends at home and on here. I almost gave up on this build but the fire is burning now more than ever.
Next thing on the list is get the car started, coolant burped and check for leaks everywhere. Then setup the appointment for the dyno day with Derek Robinson at Innovative motorworks. When that's all done I may go to the last couple events this year before I disassemble to begin the body work and paint!
Here is a good reference to the pipes in how they were built. If I can I will pull it all and show a picture of them now but you can definitely see how the wastegate dump is way to short.
01-03-2017, 04:05 AM
re: Goldiewang's K20A Swapped TR3030R "VelociRaptor" Project Build
