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I tried it and I did it! very difficult. and had to get creative with a vice grip attached to a wrench to do it. also had to use vice grip to get the bottom bolt out that fastens the bypass valve down, as it backs into the blower like a half thread away from coming out.
Venting the valve cover doesn't do a very good job of venting the block though?
if you have large enough AN fittings. venting from the VC alone is more than sufficient to my understanding. I have read that cars that are road raced refrain from venting the back of the block, as oil likes to travel up those lines. this is more difficult through the valve cover.
Stupid question , So looking to see if anyone has run into anything like this before, just put the supercharger kit on my em1 (car is stock otherwise) with a stock fuel system and pcm (pcm/wideband) is in the mail and this is just to pull the car out of the garage no actual driving) Car started first crank idles great, giving the car any sort of throttle the car bogs and dies. Does this sound like it just needs more fuel/tune and that's causing it to bog or something like vacuum line routing/vacuum leak
your map sensor is seeing boost for the first time and the ecu has absolutely no idea what to do with it. she just needs a tune
your map sensor is seeing boost for the first time and the ecu has absolutely no idea what to do with it. she just needs a tune
thank you, it's been freaking me out as I've driven a turbo civic that was untuned and it was totally driveable just couldn't get into any kind of boost, where this is like you mildly press the gas and the car is dead lol
if you have large enough AN fittings. venting from the VC alone is more than sufficient to my understanding. I have read that cars that are road raced refrain from venting the back of the block, as oil likes to travel up those lines. this is more difficult through the valve cover.
But how does positive crank pressure get to the head? Goes up the holes that the oil is trying to drain down?
Just went through the same things with mine lol. what i found to be the best solution, is to block off B,C, and D and utilize a vented valvecover with 2 AN fittings to a catch can. youll cut down on your oil consumption quite a bit (especially on track) and you simplify the back of the block area thats already packed tight with the blower.
thats how I have mine currentlly:
The valve cover goes to catch can, and A) goes to pcv valve, then catch can.
B) and C) are capped.
But I want to make D) a drainback for the catch can to return the oil.
I always thought of swapping out my B for K and putting on a kraftwerks system on it. Just don't know if I want to dump money into a Honda again. Maybe going through this thread will rekindle my interest.
I can't say that I've ever heard anything negative about Apexi exhaust. A good mandrel bent 70mm system will be ideal. The WS2 has a resonator built in, so that might help a bit. I'm not sure where you would put another resonator, looking at the system, but your local muffler shop could recommend something. I kinda cringe at cutting up a good cat-back system.
Unfortunately the WS2 catback offered is only 60mm, so I am contemplating getting the universal WS2 70mm muffler which was why I inquired about resonators because I don't want it to be too loud with just a straight pipe.
Originally Posted by hondalocal
I have read some people have made good power with the Skunk2 Alpha header, but I hesitate to recommend, for fear of being stoned by someone from GDD.
To make the most power you will want to keep bottleneck's to a minimum. A good 4-1 header with 2.5"+ collector would be the main thing to keep in mind if you're going to go with 70mm exhaust. If you have to deal with smog (legally) you might be stuck with using a header with 2.25" collector and cat. If this is the case, I'm not sure you would benefit as much from the larger piping. At least in $:HP
I'm not too concerned with staying CARB legal as I originally did.... 4.5 psi just doesn't sound fun at all. As for headers, I found a seller trying to sell me his kami but he ended up being a flake. So to speed things up a bit I'm going with any (besides Kami) 4-1 2.5" header that would pair well with JRSC. So anyone here have experience with the Mugen 4-1 headers in a JRSC setup? If it pairs well then I might jump on it since I found a good deal on a Mugen 4-1 2.5".
Another question for anyone here. I'm getting really antsy to just get the install going. But I'm worried about having too much boost getting backed up due to lack of exhaust flow since I'm shooting for 12 psi / 11 psi intercooled. Would it be wiser for me to bring boost down to about 8 - 9 psi if I'm going to stick with stock USDM ITR cat and exhaust (for now at least)? Or would it be okay for me to install the high boost setup anyway?
I bought a partial GSR JRSC kit. One of the parts I had to make was the T-bolt. I have dimensions of it. Not hard to fabricate if you have a basic milling machine. Pretty tough if you don't. I haven't finished installing my kit yet, so I can't prove that my design works, but I feel pretty confident that it won't be the weakest link in the system. If anyone is interested in my design, just let me know. I can post a picture of it this evening. Basically, I milled the "t" head portion and tapped it for the main stud. Then, I used a regular bolt, removed the head and threaded the end to screw into the new "t" head. Then I welded the two together. Then I drilled and tapped the small tensioner hole thru the side. Seems to fit and should work?? I had to buy the alternator mounting casting. I lucked out and got one from Moss. They said it was the last one they had (sorry!). I made a 3D CAD model of it if anyone is interested. Attachment 362801
i am in desperate need of one of these, it is pretty much the only part I need to finish my install, didn't know mine was no good until just now when I was going to assemble my tensioner assembly. My bolt appears to have been broke and shortened in the past. So I anyone has one that they would sell please message me ASAP.
Anyone else's JRSC setup is loud as fk with a 2.5 inch exhaust system? I'm running 200 cel cat + resonator + muffler (magnaflow) and it's pretty loud... D16
i am in desperate need of one of these, it is pretty much the only part I need to finish my install, didn't know mine was no good until just now when I was going to assemble my tensioner assembly. My bolt appears to have been broke and shortened in the past. So I anyone has one that they would sell please message me ASAP.
You can still buy the idler pulley for both the tensioner and alternator brackets on Moss's JR site
ATTENTION Kamikaze owners: I found these bad boys but the seller has no idea what application it's for....can anyone tell me if this header is for the B-Series? It looks like the downpipe is curved a bit AND it isn't a two-piece unit.
If anyone has one they'd like to sell send me a PM as well...
^^
The bends in the "down pipe" don't look like anything I've seen on a Honda application. If the bolt holes on the manifold fit the head you could just custom fab the rest to fit.
First things first... hold a "B" series exhaust gasket up to the back of the flange and see if it matches the openings. Second, the jog in the downpipe appears like one for a CR-V 4WD... where the exhaust passes around the transfer case and drive shaft.
Stupid question , So looking to see if anyone has run into anything like this before, just put the supercharger kit on my em1 (car is stock otherwise) with a stock fuel system and pcm (pcm/wideband) is in the mail and this is just to pull the car out of the garage no actual driving) Car started first crank idles great, giving the car any sort of throttle the car bogs and dies. Does this sound like it just needs more fuel/tune and that's causing it to bog or something like vacuum line routing/vacuum leak
ok so wanted to requote this because the issue still there, bought the kit used, and have no idea about its history. It does not have any of the Jackson racing bandaids. Car now has the blower with a 4.2" pulley/ stock b16 crank pulley, hondata intake manifold gasket, rdx injectors, aem wideband, sri, and a cat delete, currently a vafc 2 is being used until funds become available for a s300. Car starts and idles absolutely fine, but as soon as you give the car any kind of throttle it instantly bogs out and dies. It did this with stock injectors and with the rdx injectors/vafc 2, car has plenty of fuel, fuel pressure is also good, and we sprayed around every thing with brake clean and saw no visible vacuum leaks. We've run out of ideas on what would be causing this to happen, so any ideas or advise would be appreciated
Anyone else's JRSC setup is loud as fk with a 2.5 inch exhaust system? I'm running 200 cel cat + resonator + muffler (magnaflow) and it's pretty loud... D16
I run a 3" from the header collector back. It's annoying. If I could go back I would run a Apexi WS2 and sacrifice power for sound
Re: ***The Official JRSC Thread***
