***How-To Clean*** Your IACV a.k.a. Idle Air Control Valve
Question with iac valve.... I have a 97 civic with fluctuating idol... Whenever I tap on it the idol goes back to normal temporarily... Is it save to say that it's the cause of my symptoms?
Could someone please confirm if this is the Idle Air Control Valve on my 01 Civic? thanks


Last edited by tech8; Jan 8, 2022 at 09:26 PM. Reason: Deleted irrelevant video.
Question on this process, I've got a 1995 Acura Integra and am wondering, if I don't have any idle issues as listed in the OP, should I go through this anyway? The car has about 218K on it but I've never had any kind of hunting/rough idling.
so i cleaned my iacv and put it back on gaskets there ever thing looks in order but still has an idle surge i took a can of brake cleaner to see if maybe there is another exhaust leak and when i didnt find another leak i sprayed my iacv again and the cleaner bogged the engine after spraying it im thinking maybe i need another gasket? maybe its warped?? any thoughts.
hey guys--i just solved the problem w/ my 94 GS-R dropping idle to 500rpms/dimming headlights and eventually dying on me while at idle at a stop after my vehicle has been warmed up to operating temps. i solved this problem by cleaning out these three components: IACV, FITV, and throttle body butterfly. the problem now is that i have coolant leaking from my IACV...i believe its leaking from the bottom square plate w/ 2 bolts that covers a thin gasket in a narrow groove. i tried purchasing this gasket at the dealer but, they say that's not a serviceable part so they don't selll it! i wanted to see if anyone has a similar problem and what did you do to solve your coolant leak? i was thinking i could make my own gasket w/ some permatex gasket maker or does anybody know if i can order this gasket online or if there is an aftermarket gasket available? any help or information would be much appreciated...
howard: i would check and clean out your FITV if your experiencing idle flucuations as this part controls your idle speed after startup and when your englne is cold then switches over to the IACV after your car has reached operating temps. to control idle when at a stop.
thank you.
howard: i would check and clean out your FITV if your experiencing idle flucuations as this part controls your idle speed after startup and when your englne is cold then switches over to the IACV after your car has reached operating temps. to control idle when at a stop.
thank you.
No! why fix something that isn't broke!
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
This is the only time it makes sense! I have seen some guys clean it only to have a idle issue after and sometimes still have it so unless its easy to access or you have symptoms leave it be.
I know this is an old thread, but if the user is still around and still has the pics, can you redo the pics so we can see them?
They are currently stored in Photobucket, so are blurred by Photobucket, meaning users of this thread on how to clean an IACV cannot see the pics.
We would have access to clean pics if we get an annual prescription to Photobucket (I believe currently at $99 per year), which I think many users would be averse to.
They are currently stored in Photobucket, so are blurred by Photobucket, meaning users of this thread on how to clean an IACV cannot see the pics.
We would have access to clean pics if we get an annual prescription to Photobucket (I believe currently at $99 per year), which I think many users would be averse to.
my rpm comes down to the extend the engine goes off when i drive with a temperature of 34 degrees celcius.not once it can happen when am in the hot sun but is cool in the evening and early morning when i start the enging.but all happens and go off when i on the aircondition.when the air condition is on the rpm is not stable it sometimes drops and even off the engene
The IACV motor shaft runs thru the IACV and rotates the shaft according to the idle air flow needed to maintain proper rpm's. The shaft has a metal mass which rotates according to the magnetic field applied by the electromagnet stator and varies according to the voltage applied to the stator, which rapidly opens and closes the intake air passage according to idle air needed. What often happens is the shaft gets dirty and the shaft rotation is obstructed. It must be cleaned so that the shaft rotates freely with little to no binding. Usually the shaft must come out and a long duration lubricant sparingly applied.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jdm Blood »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I clean the IACV and the FITV...new TB gasket...yet it still idle rough. When the car is warmin up...its fine until I gas it alittle then it idle fast...1 to 2. What to do? Also when I unplug the plug to the FITV...it idle fine with the check engine light on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
open up the copper-colored plate on the back of the FITv located attached to tha throttle body. there is an off-white circular ring on there that unscrews loose over time. that is sometimes tha culprit of erratic idling.
also make sure your cooling system has no air in it. tha FITv opens/closes according to temperature of coolant. air can sometimes screw it up. this is sometimes the culprit of erratic idling.
you must mean you unplugged tha plug to tha IACv. tha FITv is controlled by coolant temperature. tha IACv is controlled in combination with FITv, idle adjusting screw, and ECM/ECU. but if you have proper idle to begin with, tha idle adjusting screw should not cause or affect any erratic idling problem. you can adjust idle between IACv and ECM. do tha following steps:
- warm engine to normal running temperature.
- check gauge and make sure upper radiator hose is warm/hot. fan should turn on.
- unplug tha IACv from ECM. just remove tha plug on tha IACv. idle should settle low and CEL will come on.
- adjust idle adjusting screw (on throttle body) anywhere from 400-600 (dependant on engine).
- turn engine off. remove key.
- plug IACv back.
- reset ECM. don't remove fuse, ECM will still hold CEL codes. you have to unplug battery.
also, make sure your FITv and IACv are workin' properly, and that you have a good PCV valve. tha TPS is rarely tha problem, unless you screwed around with it. and really make sure you have no vacuum leaks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeadEnd9009 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you need to bleed the cooling system after doing this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i would. i mentioned why above. air pockets can also cause extra heat within your cooling system.
_taF
Modified by tallazzFilipino at 1:14 PM 7/13/2006
open up the copper-colored plate on the back of the FITv located attached to tha throttle body. there is an off-white circular ring on there that unscrews loose over time. that is sometimes tha culprit of erratic idling.
also make sure your cooling system has no air in it. tha FITv opens/closes according to temperature of coolant. air can sometimes screw it up. this is sometimes the culprit of erratic idling.
you must mean you unplugged tha plug to tha IACv. tha FITv is controlled by coolant temperature. tha IACv is controlled in combination with FITv, idle adjusting screw, and ECM/ECU. but if you have proper idle to begin with, tha idle adjusting screw should not cause or affect any erratic idling problem. you can adjust idle between IACv and ECM. do tha following steps:
- warm engine to normal running temperature.
- check gauge and make sure upper radiator hose is warm/hot. fan should turn on.
- unplug tha IACv from ECM. just remove tha plug on tha IACv. idle should settle low and CEL will come on.
- adjust idle adjusting screw (on throttle body) anywhere from 400-600 (dependant on engine).
- turn engine off. remove key.
- plug IACv back.
- reset ECM. don't remove fuse, ECM will still hold CEL codes. you have to unplug battery.
also, make sure your FITv and IACv are workin' properly, and that you have a good PCV valve. tha TPS is rarely tha problem, unless you screwed around with it. and really make sure you have no vacuum leaks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeadEnd9009 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you need to bleed the cooling system after doing this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i would. i mentioned why above. air pockets can also cause extra heat within your cooling system.
_taF
Modified by tallazzFilipino at 1:14 PM 7/13/2006
how it going i know this is a old threat but im hoping to find some help. i recenlty cleaned out the iac and now im having low idle issue. when i turn my steeringwheel and when i give it gas it goes low to like 300-400 ish area and sounds like it wasnts to turn off. my first issue was that same thing but now its worse.
my question is
1. do i need to bleed it after just cleaning the iac (no coolant hoses where disconnected)
2. i did also noticed my coolant level was higher than usual, i did try turn on ac but its not working right i think i have one of the hoses leaking (will replace soon).
after i drove it for like 20 min i came back home and noticed the idle wasnt going as low as before but still think it needs some work, my main concern now is the coolant level. did some research and have seen ppl say its normal for coolant to rise since its getting expand by heat, just not to sure would like a second or third opinion. ty
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