Wrenching--Time

Posted about which K series head & block combo would be the best for boost. Well, now I'm asking the same question, BUT instead it's for a n/a build.

1. Which K series head, and block would I wanna start with? K20a?...K24 block w/ K20 head??...

2. What what would the WHP limit be when building this, "perfect N/A K series engine". 400whp? 550? I'd like something some what reliable, yet plenty of power.

3. I'd be more then happy with a 350-400whp N/A built K series. Not to worried about labor, and don't wanna spend 10k on engine alone.

What mods should I start with, and if possible, how much $$$ are we talking to see 350-400whp outta the build.

If it can't be done, and I'm wrong, I'm sorry lol. Just need a little advice.

Thanks!!!

JRCivic1

There is nothing cheap or reliable about a 400 wheel HP N/A "K" series engine. 300-325 wheel HP seems to be the sweet spot for a shot at long term reliability for a street driven engine... without blowing up your bank account.

pogeeboy27

iTrader: (3)

K24 block with a K20 head would be your best option. Couple questions for you:

1. What fuel are you running? Trying to hit 350-400 hp will be tough to do on pump gas.
2. How good are you at balancing and blueprinting? Do you have the necessary tools and skills? At the horsepower levels you are trying to attain, it will be all the little things that will determine the life of the engine. Spending $10k to have a reputable shop build your motor may seem expensive but it's much cheaper than having to do a rebuild due to something you missed or overlooked.

Reason I ask those 2 questions is because I myself have been tossing around the idea of building a high horsepower K series. But when you see threads on how meticulous and detailed 4Piston is with building engines, you begin to see the value in spending top dollar to have a reliable high horsepower race engine. However if you are out for the experience, then I say have at it. Just be sure to do your research.

CHiLD

To hit 350, it won't be cheap, it won't be on pump gas (which may or may not be practical for where you live), a 2.4l block or stroked k20 block, a ported head, big cams which will be more stressful on the valvetrain, large intake manifold or ITB's.......unless.....you build a mild engine and just spray it with nitrous.

I have a pretty mild build, nothing was upgraded that I wasn't forced to upgrade and most of the parts aren't the top dollar pieces. I've got around $5000 in my engine alone, not including assembly or bearings or valves (i got valves free from a friend), I don't have aftermarket rods, and I left out the machine shop costs to do my block. I'm sitting right at 300 whp on 93 pump gas. Add the cost of a nice ported head and there goes a couple of thousand, plus and things like that to help it to be reliable and you're getting really close to that 10,000 mark you don't want to reach. You'd easily eclipse that with top of the line products (which you'd want for reliability). You're goal isn't impossible, but you can forget about it being cheap and the bigger that engine gets, the more fragile it's going to be on the streets.

pogeeboy27

iTrader: (3)

^^^Awesome car right there! Love the build that you did.