i having a lil problem on my timing i just bought a b16 timing belt from honda and when i put it on i dont under stand why the timing skiped. when i started it up it was idolin fine then i reved it up a lil like to 4500 rpm then it skiped.

b16 block and b16 water pump

 

you didnt tension it properly

do it again, this time before you start the motor, crank it over by hand 10 times or so.

 

how u tension it properly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you didnt tension it properly

do it again, this time before you start the motor, crank it over by hand 10 times or so.</TD></TR></TABLE>


just like that.

 

i just did that today and i drove it and it cut off on me and the timmin skiped....... i cranked it over 10 times by hand and arm. and timin was still ok i drove it down the street when it was in 4th gear going about 40 mph it cut off on me sooo what now

 

http://www.helminc.com
get a service manual, follow the instructions for tensioning it.

 

naw man i giv up thank u doe ima just take it to teh shop i give up lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just did that today and i drove it and it cut off on me and the timmin skiped....... i cranked it over 10 times by hand and arm. and timin was still ok i drove it down the street when it was in 4th gear going about 40 mph it cut off on me sooo what now </TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't need to crank it 10 times, 3-4 will be more then enough to seat the belt. The purpose of cranking it over is not to "tension" the belt, its to seat it and line it up with all the various pulleys correctly. There is a tensioner bolt just above the crank pulley towards the firewall. Its usually got a rubber plug in the hole covering it up. Remove the plug and expose the bolt. Its a 14mm head. Loosen it about 1 full turn. Do NOT overloosen it. Now, rotate the crank (not the cams) four full turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE. On the last turn, line the marks on the cams so the "UP" faces up. Make sure the crank is also on TDC. If all checks out then rotate the crank an additional *3 teeth* on the cams COUNTERCLOCKWISE and stop. Tighten the tension bolt to approx 40ftlbs. Your done.

 

dang u smart ahah but thanks ill try that tommorw

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You don't need to crank it 10 times, 3-4 will be more then enough to seat the belt. The purpose of cranking it over is not to "tension" the belt, its to seat it and line it up with all the various pulleys correctly. There is a tensioner bolt just above the crank pulley towards the firewall. Its usually got a rubber plug in the hole covering it up. Remove the plug and expose the bolt. Its a 14mm head. Loosen it about 1 full turn. Do NOT overloosen it. Now, rotate the crank (not the cams) four full turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE. On the last turn, line the marks on the cams so the "UP" faces up. Make sure the crank is also on TDC. If all checks out then rotate the crank an additional *3 teeth* on the cams COUNTERCLOCKWISE and stop. Tighten the tension bolt to approx 40ftlbs. Your done.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont get this... i did my belt with the engine out ... took the old belt out.. put the new 1 in.. line it all up (didnt have to move any pulleys since i didnt messed with them when takin the old 1 out) tighten the teniosn bolt and checked if everythin was lining right and it did... is this right??? btw this is on a single cam

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCracer723 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i dont get this... i did my belt with the engine out ... took the old belt out.. put the new 1 in.. line it all up (didnt have to move any pulleys since i didnt messed with them when takin the old 1 out) tighten the teniosn bolt and checked if everythin was lining right and it did... is this right??? btw this is on a single cam</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tensioning procedures are similar on a SOHC as well. You are still supposed to rotate the crank 3 times to make sure the belt is seated on the pulley, regardless of what you did. It has nothing to do with the engine being hot either. You are also supposed to rotate the cam 3 teeth counterclockwise off of TDC and THEN tighten the tensioner. Failure to do so may allow excessive slack in the system.

 

i did it... and it felt the same ... before i did it... i felt the tenion on the belt.. (felt the 1/4 play on the belt) .. then after i was done.. it felt the same .. still the 1/4 play ..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCracer723 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did it... and it felt the same ... before i did it... i felt the tenion on the belt.. (felt the 1/4 play on the belt) .. then after i was done.. it felt the same .. still the 1/4 play .. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I won't say that it can't work any other way. I am simply stating how Honda says it should be done.

 

so does the tension of 1/4 turn play sounds ok?? ive read it in a couple of post here

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCracer723 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so does the tension of 1/4 turn play sounds ok?? ive read it in a couple of post here</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, sounds fine.