Going from b18a1 to obd-1 gsr vtec.

This b18c is stated as having 40-50k miles, from HMO, but it's still got to be pretty old. My tendency is to replace things like the clutch/flywheel, throw-out bearing, etc...water pump/timing belt. Maybe even the starter. It would be much easier to replace that stuff with the engine on a bench, then after the installation, sometime down the road.

I'd like you guys opinions on this. Not many miles, but an older engine that may have sat around for a while.
Thanks

 

starter is simple to replace, even when it's in the engine bay.
If it was me, I would replace:
- both cam seals
- cam seal plug
- rear main seal
- any stripped exhaust manifold studs
- oil pan gasket, if leaking
- oil pump seal (aka front main seal)
- axle seals

 

Good suggestions!
I've already got the axle seals on the way, and the rear main seal is on my list. I'm just putting my existing header onto the gsr engine so I'll be looking at the exhaust studs. I hadn't thought about the oil pump and front seal. I should look at it real well.

I just received an aftermarket clutch cable. They don't sell the OEM anymore. I don't think it's as good as the Honda version. So I am looking at the Hasport master cylinder bracket.

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The last time I pulled an engine was in '92. An air-cooled VW, 15 min. if you've got all your tools ready.

There are a lot of little things you need and I'm finding some of them. This engine is way different. 6 years ago I was buying something for this car and noticed on the website, "engine removal bolts", with the spacers. I got them thinking I'd need them some day. The place to hook to on the trans is still a mistery. I can't see it in the manual (poor photo) and I can't see it down underneath everything in my car.

I've found the oil pump seal...for the crankshaft, but haven't found the rear main seal yet, just because I don't know what Acura calls it...or puts it on their website.

I guess I'll keep posting my adventure (swap) here, thru it all and take a few photos. Sometimes I'll put questions that people here are bound to know about. The engine doesn't come for another week and a half and I may not start taking my car apart until September when it starts cooling off. I don't like sweating all over my wrenches much.
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Not cheap, but I know i'll like it when it's in. I've had a light flywheel before. Makes a difference and this one should last.



....and their pro clutch kit. Oem strength.
I decided to have the oem flywheel resurfaced instead, but got the clutch kit.

I saw a good way to remove the linkage pin last night. Bottle jack and 1/4" octagonal driver.
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Replace all seals and gaskets minus the headgasket. F/R main seals, oil pan gasket, intake/exhaust manifold gaskets, cam seals, valve cover gasket.

Change the timing belt and water pump

Inspect and clean out the oil pickup and pan.

Do a valve adjustment.

That's basically all the maintenance you can do, all at one time, easily with the engine out.

 

So far I've already purchased:

The engine, of course...on the way.
crane hoist and engine leveler
Hasport mounts
The rywire conversion harness etal.
4-wire o2 sensor for my exhaust. I'm using the header I've got now.
Axle seals
Both engine seals
Exhaust gasket

The list has more to go....engine isn't due till August 6-8.
Timing belt and water pump are probably next, but I've found the flywheel for $218, so I may jump on it, they're low on stock at that price.
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I've run across an issue with the air filter inlet. I've looked at the short rams and cold intakes and none fit. That's no surprise, they're made for specific cars, not swaps.
The short rams put the filter right where my battery is....I'm not interested in moving my battery. The longer, full cold air intakes turn the wrong direction.

I'm wondering about the stock inlet that connects to the throttle body, and some combination of that plus maybe, my current K&N inlet that puts their filter right over the inlet that comes up from under the bumper.

Has anyone done this? Go from the obd1 gsr vtec to the DA? Any suggestion is appreciated.

Thanks!

 

The problem is the manifold.

If you run a type R style manifold, you can use your factory intake. Skunk2 street manifold would be a good option.

 

on those Honda/Acura online sites, the rear main seal is under the ENGINE...CYLINDER BLOCK-OIL PAN category.
Part number should be 91214-PLE-003

 

Did I read something about the skunk2 manifold changing the oem vtec configuration?
...or you're just saying I should use the oem type-R manifold without changing the vtec?

Maybe I read it changes the secondary runners, but I don't know if my engine has those or what year it came from. I don't have it yet so I can't look.

 

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I see some type-r intakes from the b18c5. That what you talking about?
Except, the only factory intake tube I have is for my 1990.

The skunk2 ultra street intake also requires a larger throttle body. That's not really the direction I prefer to go in....not to mention another $500 for both.

 

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I may take the aem short ram and at their sister company "spectre performance", ....cut the aem and get a piece to turn it in the right direction. Then I could use the K&N front piece that puts the filter directly over the cool air inlet next to the battery. Sounds nuts I know, but I tend to be good at these type of solutions.

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I dunno. It seems a little unlikely I could cut this short ram here. What's the hose connection for, a map sensor, or just vacuum? True this photo is not exact, out of scale and the angles are off. I might have more room, I might not. I'm not real positive about doing this, but I'll see how it lines up, after I get the gsr engine in.

 

This is all I've got at the moment....even if I can move it over a little, just a big guess, or I build the whole thing out of parts. Spectre Performance has everything.

 

The GSR intake manifold places the throttle body MUCH lower in the engine bay than what you have pictured above with the stock LS engine installed. What Caoboy is referring to is IF you replace the stock dual-plane B18C1 GSR intake manifold with a single plane like a Skunk2, Blox, etc, you will be able to use an intake tube/system that fits your original LS engine and chassis... or at least very close, requiring minimal modification.

 

What does that mean exactly, dual vs. single plane, besides that one is higher and one is lower? I have no idea in the differences in these manifolds. I would however, prefer not to gain higher rpm performance at the cost of the bottom and mid-range. I see from some of the images I've looked up, the OEM gsr intake is sort of upside down. It curves upward and then back down.

added:
I did call skunk2. If I used the ultra-street, I'd have to use a number of sensor deletes. If I use the pro series, the oem connections are there to use. They did say that chipping the ecu for hondata or aem is highly recommended, or the engine will run rich and I wouldn't get as much benefit that the pro series is designed for. I wouldn't want my engine to run rich regardless....not to mention I'd have to also get another throttle body. $1200 more to my cost of my swap (intake, throttle body, ecu mod).


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I took a good look at my current flow pipe setup. There seems to be plenty of room to drop it, up to about 2" max. The only place I'd have to change it, is right where the K&N connection is. There's an electrical harness there mounted to the fender well. A 22 degree bend there would probably work.

My '90 flow tube has the fitting for the breather....and two vacuum lines, which would have to be sealed or removed.
but.....from the '95 parts catolog on any Acura site is this below. I have no idea if all of these things are on my engine. HMO states all the water connections are there, but I haven't asked them about the intake connections. My '90 flow pipe does not have these connections and many of these items aren't labeled with part numbers and most discontinued.






I have found the primary pipe, number 11. For $100, but what the heck is 12 and 17?

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Probably resonators or something not needed.

it's not there on aftermarket intakes....you're making this too complicated.

 

I imagine you're right Caoboy. I'm trying to know as much as possible and gather as many of the parts as possible to avoid lengthy downtime. I'll be relying on my '97 Ranger while the Teg engine is swapped. My Ranger at 165k miles has had nearly nothing done to it (fuel pump) and I'm out in the country, so if it goes down I'm screwed....can't even get groceries. Like to do the swap in 2 weeks max. Somehow I doubt I can do it that fast.

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Easiest way to solve that downtime part is to have the engine on a stand, get everything possible done to it, even put the harness on. When you are ready, pull out the old, pop in the new, (shouldn't take more than 8 hours by yourself) and that gives you a whole day to get any issues with wiring sorted, and it's done in a weekend

 

Well maybe in the ideal situation with everything needed, but yes I'll do everything possible before the swap. Clutch, engine seals, water pump.... I've got a number of issues that will keep that from happening. I have 4' 2" in front of my car to work in. If there's anything I didn't think of I have to find it, ordering....have it shipped. Once it's over 90 degrees, I'm heading inside for the AC. I'm intentionally going to do the job carefully and take my time. There's a lot more reasons I could name.

 

Why do do people make it so complicated? Use the $12 correct tool and it comes out with five hammer taps. Goes back in just as easy.

 

So you're saying that even on 25-30 year old cars, the rubber covering it is never broken, then pin is never corroded or deteriorated....stuck. And using the hammer when the car is 12" off the ground is easy?

I watched several videos of this and at one pro shop, the pin was fused and they had to drill it out. I think the rubber on mine is cracked, but I've never looked at the pin.

....thanks for reminding me to order that stuff. Particularly the rubber boot covering the pin.
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I use a 1/4" punch and an air hammer... forget five hammer taps... how about one trigger bump !!!