StreetRacinThug

I searched but every post was irrelevant and had really dumb comments about not to do it because its heavy and that was it. Or Type R is better than H22 but a B18C5 cost like 4 grand for the swap and tend to burn oil and smoke after some mileage. Atleast all the Rs I have seen.
No stupid posts about Its heaver because with everything done it only ways 70 lbs more. I am not worried about understeer and stupid things like youll crash into a mountain side even with a JDM sway bar.


Okay so basically I was talking all this BS about going Nitrous and B18C1 bla bla bla. More info and more knowledge I am not liking N20 because the cars wont be as fast as it should be without the bottle. Ive been looking into something not as typical as a B18C swap to run low 15s. For the price I can work something out to make 14s all day.

And just so people dont think I am a bench tuner or e-tuner last time I posted car was completely stock on shitty tires, blown suspension and different set of steel wheels and rims.

Now car sits with new Headlights sanded and buffed, 12K HID Kit, JDM Parking Light, New K+N Air Filter, fresh uncurbbed 15" Si rims with 195/55 Falken Zeis rotated balanced, new axles, outer tie rod, KYB GR2 Struts on Eibach Sport springs all around and front Power Slot rotors with Hawk Pads. Still working on suspension, still looking for LCA, ASR and Swaybar.

Situation- Friend blew his boosted H22 block. He was in a emergency pulled over from the cops and turned off the car immediatly and caused some damage. Drove home normal and by the time he got home the rod blew a whole in the block. He says the head is perfectly good.

Head-Comes complete with I/M, Dizzy, Sensors, Cams, Gears (Skunk 2 adj). As a good friend that I have he made me an offer I cant refuse. Block comes along with the motor for $300 all sensors.


Block-Now, a bare block wouldnt cost much. The biggest concern would be of mine is the H22/H23 VTEC Frankenstein. Would it be worth it since I hear once you start with a H22 its much cheaper to complete. Or just go again with a H22 block and build to last with some good rods and piston. Anything that could still be used from the stock block I would use for the new one meaning sensors and stuff.

Trans-As far as a tranny Im thinkin a H22 with LSD would suffice since I have a friend that has one lying around that would trade with me plus cash for my B18 swap.

Axles- What kind from what cars can they be taken or made with?

AC/PS- Is it possible to retain DD qualties. Not interested so much in P/S but A/C IS A MUCH there is no option for no A/C. Any custimizations needed and how intense?

Mounts- I need a 3 peice kit from Hasport or the like?

Linkage/Cables- What car needed or custom bought?

ECU- A stock P13 would suffice for now, no problem getting one of those.

Firewall/Frame- Will there have to be an cutting like in EGs other than the shifter?

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Pics Tomorrow!
Hey guys, good news I just bought my friends Blown H22 with some goodies. Comes with Clutch Masters Flywheel, Stage 3 Clutch, Skunk2 Camgears, Alternator, Dizzy, Longblock, Wire Harness and rear Torque Bracket.. He explained to me the head gasket it has is a thick one for boost looking at like 8:9 compression or something. Motor was boosted. Im not looking for boost but yeah its all good. So, my other friend has a JDM H22 Trans So all I need is Axles, ECU, Shortblock, Side mounts, and Integra GSR Harness. Any ideas for side mounts and axles?

Okay I keep reading in the archives about H23 VTEC but its not helping me understand more power. Or the best block setup.
Okay I understand more Displacement=More TQ right? The point of doing H22 Head on a H23 Block is to have like a B20 VTEC Torque and HP all in one engine.

So Should I be looking for a H23 Block and using a H22 crank with H22 Rods and H22 Type S Pistons?

Or is it H23 block with H23 Crank and H23 Pistons and H23 Pistons?

I understand that I need oil squirters for the block so it can run correctly. To 7600 RPM.

I need a definate answer cause I am totally confused. Im not sure what to buy and what to look for. I want a sterdy bottom end for N/A and maybe bottle fed in the future for a daily driver. Not sure what to look for yet.

P.S My friend gave me a Internal Coil VTEC Distributor, from my knowledge H/F series were external coil. But then his new H22 Turbo setup on his EG is Internal Coil too. He wasnt to sure about it when I asked.

alterdcreations

h22/h23 block
f22/h23 crank
h23/f22 rods
h22 type-s pistons
gsr arp rod bolts
balance everything
p28 chipped with crome(h23 vtec will run with the p13 but not as good as with crome)

and no you do not need the squirters.

StreetRacinThug

So I have come to the conclusion that I will just go straight H22, not worth the hassle of H23. So is there a benefit of getting Type S pistons in a H22?

h22chilton

bro, you havn't read ****. not on this forum any way. on the trac tho, just read. I know every 1 of ur ?'s x2 from h-t and a few moments of "my' time, not every one elses.

StreetRacinThug

Frankly, you dont know what I have read. Any a lot of the stuff on here was misleading. Thanks anyways and for my ?s I have most of them answered to fellow HT members who actually answer a question. Doesn't matter if I read, If I asked a question, and you know the answer and want to share like it supposed to on a forum then be it. But you didnt so thanks anyways.

PS By the way I wasnt wasting anyones time If they took the time to read and themselves to respond.

alterdcreations

i have a h22a4 97 block with a h23 crank and rods with type s pistons, new water pump and endyne high flow oil pump. i spun a rod bearing and its for sale
250 plus shipping. let me know if you want it. its going into storage for now