how to make an ls/vtec or cr/vtec reliable?...
06-22-2002, 09:14 AM
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Re: how to make an ls/vtec or cr/vtec reliable?... (Blown90hatcH)
oil squirters?
don't want to, I did install a GSR oil cooler though..had to tap the block again for that one...
don't want to, I did install a GSR oil cooler though..had to tap the block again for that one...
06-22-2002, 07:53 PM
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Re: how to make an ls/vtec or cr/vtec reliable?... (T.O.tegs)
i would also get the girdle and the 3 inner main caps reamed to accept dowel pins. otherwise running the girdle is pretty much useless.
goodluck on the buildup
goodluck on the buildup
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06-23-2002, 07:47 PM
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Re: how to make an ls/vtec or cr/vtec reliable?... (T.O.tegs)
oil squirters?
don't want to, I did install a GSR oil cooler though..had to tap the block again for that one...
don't want to, I did install a GSR oil cooler though..had to tap the block again for that one...
06-23-2002, 11:14 PM
#9
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Re: how to make an ls/vtec or cr/vtec reliable?... (Blown90hatcH)
oil squirters?
don't want to, I did install a GSR oil cooler though..had to tap the block again for that one...
What do you mean you dont want to do it? That is pretty crucial for a "reliable" crvtec setup.
don't want to, I did install a GSR oil cooler though..had to tap the block again for that one...
What do you mean you dont want to do it? That is pretty crucial for a "reliable" crvtec setup.
06-24-2002, 01:34 AM
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Re: how to make an ls/vtec or cr/vtec reliable?... (poison)
Oil squirteres aren't really needed if you are going to use aftermarket pistons. The oil squirters are used to cool off the factory cast pistons. I brought this topic up before in the tech section, the link below will take you to that thread.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=159662
I was going to install a z10 block girdle into my motor but I found out that once the girdle is installed there isn't much clearance. Something my mechanic told me and I will take his word for it.
Looks good and keep us updated on your project!
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=159662
I was going to install a z10 block girdle into my motor but I found out that once the girdle is installed there isn't much clearance. Something my mechanic told me and I will take his word for it.
Looks good and keep us updated on your project!
06-24-2002, 06:04 AM
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Re: how to make an ls/vtec or cr/vtec reliable?... (Maximus)
the lack of oil squirters does not worry me, I actually have a set for sale if anyone is interrested ...I would rather the B20B circulate the oil the way it was designed to. Also, the aftermarket pistons and rods will not get as hot as the factory piston/rod combo. I personnaly woud never build a fankenstien with stock bottom end.
I will not however start another oil squirters vs no oil squirters discussion. I did however add a GSR oil cooler and I will outline that edition shortly.
I'm sure that my frankenstien will be as reliable as any performance built honda motor. My crankshaft was extensively reworked(those details remain secret though
), the full rotating assembly was balanced using the GSR crank pully as well as my flywheel/clutch combo...I'm also not sure if any of you noticed the ARP bottom end studs. although there is no kit for a B series bottom end, we simply measured what we needed and ordered it, I personnally have never seen anyone else do this before 
another shot of the arp bottom end studs, notice the 3 pairs at the center are longer to accomidate the Z10 block girdle...
...I would rather the B20B circulate the oil the way it was designed to. Also, the aftermarket pistons and rods will not get as hot as the factory piston/rod combo. I personnaly woud never build a fankenstien with stock bottom end.I will not however start another oil squirters vs no oil squirters discussion. I did however add a GSR oil cooler and I will outline that edition shortly.
I'm sure that my frankenstien will be as reliable as any performance built honda motor. My crankshaft was extensively reworked(those details remain secret though
), the full rotating assembly was balanced using the GSR crank pully as well as my flywheel/clutch combo...I'm also not sure if any of you noticed the ARP bottom end studs. although there is no kit for a B series bottom end, we simply measured what we needed and ordered it, I personnally have never seen anyone else do this before another shot of the arp bottom end studs, notice the 3 pairs at the center are longer to accomidate the Z10 block girdle...
06-24-2002, 01:44 PM
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Re: how to make an ls/vtec or cr/vtec reliable?... (Maximus)
That is correct what earl said in his post, but you have to remember that he builds his engines for maximum performance/modest reliability. He builds race engines. It is your call, but for the 150 bucks/2hrs it cost to do them, I think the benefits in the long run are greatly increased. Especially for a street engine that is powerful, but very reliable.
Jason
Jason
06-24-2002, 04:48 PM
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Re: how to make an ls/vtec or cr/vtec reliable?... (ridge racer 2)
This has to be the most rediculous post ever.
You are bragging that after all this money your as reliable as what? a stock b16.
Second of all a 1.8 Ls is only has 2% more dispalcement than the GSR which means only 2% more power though with lower compression pistons that's not really the case.
Where simply changing your piston ring which typically lose 6-7% compression to gapless rings which usually lose less than 1% you would have made 3x more power than this route on a reliable other wise stock motor.
One of my neighbors has a hatch with a b16/LS and bolt ons and he still loses to my b16 hatch every time with only boltons and 4.91 final drive and I still saved almost 1K over his setup.
You are bragging that after all this money your as reliable as what? a stock b16.
Second of all a 1.8 Ls is only has 2% more dispalcement than the GSR which means only 2% more power though with lower compression pistons that's not really the case.
Where simply changing your piston ring which typically lose 6-7% compression to gapless rings which usually lose less than 1% you would have made 3x more power than this route on a reliable other wise stock motor.
One of my neighbors has a hatch with a b16/LS and bolt ons and he still loses to my b16 hatch every time with only boltons and 4.91 final drive and I still saved almost 1K over his setup.
That motor with forged rods and pistons along with a balanced bottom-end when properly assembled will be far more reliable than a stock B-16A, along with being a shitload more powerful.
06-25-2002, 03:59 PM
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Re: how to make an ls/vtec or cr/vtec reliable?... (ridge racer 2)
The fastest All motor car is currently a GSR motor with vtec killer cams. Now can anyone tell me here that a non vtec motor which is simplier and possibly more relible for race aplications could not with the kind of work that your talking about be as or more powerful than a frankenstein style motor. When you look at the fastest drag race and road race cars not one of them has these setups. And personally I don't like this setup based on two experiences where I built two different variations and had them checked by an outside source who is supposed to be an expert and neither engine was a reliable as they had been stock.
For the price of a block swap or head swap chances are that put towards improved gearing, tires and suspension your car will be faster than a hybrid motor.
"Lisa Kubo runs 9's all season long without a rebuild on a race motor how come your street motor can't do the same?"
And for what you could do a block swap crower offers a 2.0L conversion which gives new better than stock rods new better than stock pistons and you get to keep the stock oiling sytem and make more power than simply swapping the block.
For the price of a block swap or head swap chances are that put towards improved gearing, tires and suspension your car will be faster than a hybrid motor.
"Lisa Kubo runs 9's all season long without a rebuild on a race motor how come your street motor can't do the same?"
And for what you could do a block swap crower offers a 2.0L conversion which gives new better than stock rods new better than stock pistons and you get to keep the stock oiling sytem and make more power than simply swapping the block.
Actually, the crower kit requires removal of the oil squirters. The Crank is also a rewelded unit. The new forged crank is mucho expensive.
A B20 with a VTEC will have a better rod ratio than the crower kit also.
06-25-2002, 04:51 PM
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Re: how to make an ls/vtec or cr/vtec reliable?... (ridge racer 2)
"Lisa Kubo runs 9's all season long without a rebuild on a race motor how come your street motor can't do the same?"
06-26-2002, 03:25 AM
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Re: how to make an ls/vtec or cr/vtec reliable?... (CRX_VTEC)
a cr/vtec is not for every one...if you scared then don't do it but do it rite and it may scare the **** out of you
a link to the finished product: http://www3.sympatico.ca/h.leung/Camo
happy hibriding
but do it rite and it may scare the **** out of you a link to the finished product: http://www3.sympatico.ca/h.leung/Camo
happy hibriding
06-26-2002, 06:42 PM
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Re: how to make an ls/vtec or cr/vtec reliable?... (CRX_VTEC)
"Lisa Kubo runs 9's all season long without a rebuild on a race motor how come your street motor can't do the same?"
Its all about the $$$$
Its all about the $$$$
[Modified by Maximus, 4:49 AM 6/27/2002]
06-27-2002, 10:58 AM
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Re: how to make an ls/vtec or cr/vtec reliable?... (Maximus)
Yeah, but Kubo's motor is stroked, where's she gonna find a girdle for it ??? Drag racers don't have stupid problems like us...
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