DAmnquickDA

I like to keep it simple so here goes...

Chassis:
1993 Civic coupe EX (EJ1)

Motor:

H22A1 block
stock pistons and rods
Hastings rings
ACL race main and rod bearings
micropolished crankshaft balanced to 10k
OEM headgasket

H22A4 head
hot tanked
milled .020 by RLZ (should yield 10.5ish:1 CR)
stock valvetrain and cams (pro 1's soon)

RC 310cc injectors
stock IM with IABs removed and custom billet EGR block off plate
NSR Motorsports H2B header (in the works)
NSR Motorsports/PDP Racing 2.5 in mandrel bent exhaust w/ thrush turbo muffler
NSR Motorsports H series tucked harness
NSR Motorsports intake
ZEX 55 shot dry single fogger
8mm plug wires
NGK race plugs (stage 9 for the nitrous)

Mangement:

P28 will be tuned at RLZ on Crome Pro

Transmission:

S4C from 99 Si
Exedy Stage 2 Thin

Kit:
Evo/Bisi for EG/DC

Will be posting pics at earliest convenience.

Shooting for 12's all motor and 11's with spray.

Despite having searched and searched and searched and reading stev3o's and amys thread I still have questions. I have read things about balance shaft removal and block off, auto-manaual timing tensioner conversions, notching frame rail, hammering on frame rail, running 3 rib instead of 6 rib on alt pulley, using d series alt instead of h, shaving crank pulley, running f20b or evolution crank pulley, not using timing covers, spacing the crank pulley with washers, etc etc etc and i am SICK of hearing a million different methods and responses to question. I have never done anything but b series before. i dont have the option of test fitting a motor 10 times before i bolt it in. dont have an engineering degree and i dont work at dsr or qsd or any other baller shop. and i sure as hell dont live in southern cal where shops and honda gurus are plentiful.

The MAIN POINT of this thread is what do i NEED to do to get this **** to fit in the bay. Not what i "should" do, or "is a good idea," or what people suggest. I will do those things at my leisure and monetary convenience. Just what is necessary to make H2B happen in an EG.

Im pulling the crank out to put the ACLs and the rings in so if balance shaft removal is needed is shouldnt be too bad.

Please, H2B guys, chime in and help me out. Im trying to spend time and money wisely as i dont have much of either.

I know im asking alot but, like i said, im short on time and money. After spending 12 hours on HT today im left with questions and a pissed off girlfriend. So please, give me a list of the basic needs and i will be eternally grateful.

I would PM all you H2B guys but i feel that to be unnecessary.

-Dale
NSR Motorsports

SL0WEGG

I can't really speak for the evo/bisi kit as I've never seen one up close and personal. But apparently You have more clearance on the driver side frame rail so you don't have to bang as much if any at all. You'll need to grind the lower end of the block to clear the half shaft(there's a video on youtube showing this with the evo kit). But mainly If you want to bang the **** out of the rail you can. This is just general advice, I don't know whether or not this applies to the evo kit because I haven't seen one and not too many people seem to use them. Well if they did, they sure as **** aren't posting on the forums.

F2b-eg8

I actually just finished my h2b in my eg8. Though it is an f20b connected with a b16ttans as well. It is the same ad an h22. I used the qsd kit not the evo. So I will tell you what I had to do. There really wasn't a whole lot,

1. the timing belt cover has to come off and be cut to fit the new block bracket fit

2. You HAVE to grind the back of the block ALOT to fit the halfshaft as boostedej1 said. Just put the bracket on grind a little test fit grind a little test fit ect ect repeat this until it fits. Then bolt the half shaft to the bracket once it fits. The you will want to test fit the axel also as you will need to grind for that also (just repeat the steps).

3. As got having the qsd kit I had to beat the hell out of my fram rail to clear the balancer pulley. (I also beat in a small spot for my alternator pulley, just incase)

4. b4 you put the h2b plate on there is a little tit on the h block just below the thermostate housing you need to grind off, otherwise the plate will not bolt flat to the block.

5. After you have it installed make sure you run atleast a half quart of oil over the 2nd dot on the oil stick. (it tilt forward so oil doesn't make it to the pump as well when the normal amount is in there)

AGAIN THIS I ALL FOR THE QSD KIT (I couldn't imagine the ego kit being much different)

Hope this helps

ef9_lover

iTrader: (1)

evo kit move the motor to give clearance on the driver side^ so there no bashing or removing cover required. big difference. that the whole reason evo kit has flaws becuase its moving the tranny shiftlinkage axles from there ideal position to give hood clearance and driver side clearance. cuasing shifting problems at high gears.

--know from experience. had an evo kit before and couple of my boys bought at the same time everyone had same problem shifting high rpms

F2b-eg8

You still have to remove the timing cover and cut it to fit the new h2b block mount.

DAmnquickDA

Thanks for the responses guys. Answered a few of my questions.




How high of an rpm are you talking about? I will only be revving to 7200ish.

ef9_lover

iTrader: (1)

im my own car i had problem shifting at 7400-7600. my boy motor that was fully built would not let him shift passs 7k. but i since then scratch the evo and went with the qsd which will soon be out

DAmnquickDA

bump for more input