deSigi

I just finished my GSR swap into my 96 DX. When I turn my key to acc. the radio, lights , dash, ect. goes on. That's normal, but when I turn the key to start the engine, all the shut off and nothing happens. Engine won't even try to crank. When I had connecte the wires to the battery, I remember smelling a bit of hot acid..... Could my battery be dead, it was basically sitting in my garage for 1 week, w/o charging (I know I should have charged it).

Any suggestions on what else it might be.

Kamin

um, go check your battery.

civicsib16b

if that doesnt work check your fuse box u might have blown on its the ecu fuse its a 15a fuse check it out if the battery doesnt work!

Zerob16eg

then check your grounds .

Mr Boston

Which year ecu are you using? Immobilzer maybe?

deSigi

Well I found the problem....the starter doesn't work. I pulled the starter out of the transmission and bench tested it....nothing. The gear didn't extend or spin, so off to the parts shop tomorrow...again!

Why didn't the guy who sold me the engine tell me it wasn't working....oh well whatever. I'm just happy I found the problem.

Another thing when I tried to start the car there was fuel coming out of the fuel filter banjo bolt....I thought that thing was tight on. I don't think I can tighten it anymore. Anyone else have thing problem when changing the fuel filter?

Kamin

you have the washers in place?

deSigi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have the washers in place?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah but I reused the old ones. I'll get some new ones and see what happens.

Another thing, when I turned the key in the ignition, the speedometer went way up to 120 mph. What's up with that? What could have caused that to happen?

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by e-kay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah but I reused the old ones. I'll get some new ones and see what happens.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You put one on top and bottom of the banjo fitting?

deSigi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You put one on top and bottom of the banjo fitting?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes there are two.

deSigi

Does anyone know why my speedometer went up to 120 when I turned my key in the ignition?

deSigi

ttt for the last question.

Lord Helmet

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by e-kay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone know why my speedometer went up to 120 when I turned my key in the ignition?</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's exactly what happen prior to me changing my starter. after I changed the starter, the problem stopped. I still don't know why it did that though.

deSigi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleeperciv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that's exactly what happen prior to me changing my starter. after I changed the starter, the problem stopped. I still don't know why it did that though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you so much for reassuring me. I was freaking out! I thought my ECU was fried or something (even though I don't know what really happens when an ecu is fried).

Anyway, thanks for the feedback. I'll let you know it stops once I change my starter.

deSigi

Finally got my swap started. Once I had changed the starter and turned the key, nothing was happening again. So I took your suggestions and checked for bad grounds. I took my booster cables and hooked one end on the engine and the other end on the chassis. Engine started no problem. Took a little bit to actually start, but that was because there was no fuel in the lines yet.

Once it started everything went great. I checked for a bad or loose ground and it turns out that the ground hooked up to the head was loose. I tightened that one up, unclipped the booster cables and the engine started no problem.

Thanks a lot for all your suggestions. H-T is the greatest board for tech advice. Thanks a lot guys, your feedback was very much appreciated. I'll be sure to return the favor to anyone who needs it.

96lxb18csoon

From what i have learned, just a suggestion the 96 does not have a low pressure fuel sensor thereby you must allow the fuel lines to pressurize by turning the key to the acc position for about 15 sec quick fix to the problem this is when using a usdm ecu
hopefully helped
Im doing the same swap
e-kay when you did your wiring what ecu did you use wire harness ect.???
to make the wiring easier could i use an si harness and the gsr ecu???
this is what i got from a friend is he right?? is there any way to use the si harness and what do i have to modify to it is it easy???

Sir Harness does NOT have the IM secondary butterfly connector or wiring plus some of the sensors are in different places on he GSR Basically you will throw codes or you will have no top end...

thanks

deSigi

For the fuel tank pressure sensor the best way to solve the problem, would be to have a 96 or 97 p72 ecu. This is because the 96 and 97 GSRs don't have fuel tank pressure sensors.

I do know about the 10-15 sec pressurization technique, I still don't know if it works for me, because I have other codes that appear as well...nothing to worry about.

I used a 98 p72 ecu with my DX wiring harness. I needed to add the 2 vtec sensors, the IAB, and the knock sensor. I needed to extend the IACV wires and the CKF sensor wires. Besides that everything else basically connected up without a problem.

I don't suggest you use an Si harness, because 96-98 EKs are OBD2a and 99-00 EKs are OBD2b. OBD2a uses plugs A, C, and D at the ECU. OBD2b uses plugs A, B, and D (if I'm not mistaken).

You could always work around this, but you would need the C plug and repin it. Which would be a lot of trouble. I suggest using any 96-98 EK harnesses. If you use an EX harness, you won't need to wire up the Vtec wires.