f20bek3

dyno'd mine with aem intake and 2.5 exhaust ..stock ecu ..

171whp and 135 tq..aem wideband reads 11-11.5 @ wot
just ordered a phearable obd1 ecu and base map hoping for some better results.

what headers and management are you using? ...

rsmatti

Here are the ECU pinouts diagram I'm using. Also figured someone would need the driver side plug pin outs for the OEM F20b Harness(there are two).



I'm still missing the blanked items and cant figure what they mean.

F20b97AccordLx

can any one help me out with my f20b issues?

rsmatti

What's the problem

F20b97AccordLx

the problem I am having is I have code9 for cyp flashing and code 21 & 22 vtec codes flashing. my dizzy is new its a TD-61 I wired it up correctly according to all the guides out there, and for the vtec issue it Is pinned correctly, added the vtec pressure switch and wired that but I still have the codes flashing. Also I have a nasty gas leak looks like my fuel pressure reg is not lining up with the hole on my AEM fuel rail which has me at a lost because they said the stock pressure reg fits perfectly. I thought it was because I got a fuel rail for a H22 but I checked the part numbers and it is the same part for the 97 accord too. So does anyone know if I need to get a pressure reg from a lude or should I order a aem one and know that it will fit right?

F20b97AccordLx

NVM problem fixed =P

F20b97AccordLx

OK so i have a problem i have a connector just hangin on my harness and i do not know what it connects too it is a gray 2wires connector one wires is red/wht the other is grn/blu does any one know where this connects too

rsmatti

A picture would help.

F20b97AccordLx

oh yea sorry
warning big pic =P

rsmatti

Follow the wire to the male plugs that go into the ecu, then just find out what those pinouts for the ecu are online.

F20b97AccordLx

omg thats such a simple idea i never thought of that lol i will do just that thank you

HiProfile

I find it easiest to use a multimeter with an alligator clamp & wire to stick into the plug, then another long wire on the other multimeter tip run into the cabin. Stab each ecu wire until it beeps. BTW red/white & green/white is ECT plug, I'm not sure I know of any green/blue wires in any important plug (excluding extra obd2 crap).

skoebl

Ok so I'll be starting this swap in a month or so (in the parts acquisition stage currently), and need some clarification on what H22 parts I'll need.

If I understand correctly I'll need a starter, and power steering bracket, and timing belt?

Is there anything else I'll have to get?
Also, which years preludes can I get these parts off of?

Oh forgot to mention I'm doing the F20b in a DC integra ('94), using the QSD kit, and a chipped p28.

Bense

are you planning on using power steering?

skoebl

Yes, my hope is to keep p/s and a/c. I know with the QSD kit I'll probably have to do a little metal massaging, but that's no problem.

Htwentydeuce

Hey guys, I havent used this forum much but i was hoping someone could help me with timing on my f20b..
-qsd h2b kit(b-series trans, mounts, axles)
-balance shaft delete
-manual tensioner conversion
I do not have a lower timing cover because it wont fit.. (97 ex coupe)
I got everything TDC by putting a long screwdriver in cyl #1
aligned the cams and tightened the tensioner. Cant get it to fire
and it was just running last week. Is there another way to make sure the crank pulley is dead on without taking it off? from what i have found there are no timing marks so I am stuck.. i cant seem to find many write ups about f20bs.. someone please help!

preluder90

I am about to reinstall my head and noticed the H22 studs are much shorter than the stock head bolts. Is this normal for studs? Or do I possibly have the wrong studs?

CTCD5

Is anyone running an upgraded H22 valvetrain? I'm about to order a set of blox high compression valves (For an H22) and my fear is the larger valve may touch the piston, which is no fun

Z-freak

Here's some information I'm working on currently.... Read below as to valve sizes.... Trying to set the record straight!




OK, There is one thing that I have run into that has FRUSTRATED me to no end and that is the INCREDIBLE amount of INCORRECT information out there on the internet for this engine (F20B). I am spending a (lot) of my money to set the record straight:

INTERNET: K20A ARP Connecting Rod Bolts (part #208-6003) will fit the stock F20B Rods.

TRUTH: THEY WILL NOT FIT! I spent $100 based on more than one person saying they will fit, and they are thicker and longer than the F20B bolts. They WILL NOT WORK. Other than having them make a custom set ($$$) or finding one from the old F23A1 group buy on here a few years ago, you will need the 98-2002 F23A1 Rod bolt. They are about $3 each (my dealer "lists them" for $11.10 each LOL). Part Number 13204-P8A-A01 (Honda),

Stock F20B/F23A1 Connecting rod bolt (#13204-P8A-A01) specs:
- 10mm, 12 point head
- 51.50mm (2.029") overall length
- 8.0mm (0.315") thickness/diameter

ARP K20A Connecting rod bolt (#208-6003) specs:
- 10mm, 12 point head
- 62.50mm (2.461") overall length
- 8.0mm (0.315") shank, 9.0mm (0.355") at threads, so it is considered a 9mm diameter.






INTERNET: H22A4, H23A Non-VTEC, and F22A1 Valves will fit the F20B Head.

TRUTH: THEY WILL NOT FIT (H22A4 without modification). I spent $150 buying intake and exhaust valves (one of each, for each of the 3 engines) to find this out because new OEM F20B valves are $40 and $60 EACH for Intake and Exhaust, respectively. I am having custom valves made by Manley for $350. See the pictures below for PROOF.

UPDATE: As far as exhaust valves go, after measuring the exhaust valves, the F20B exhaust valves are IDENTICAL in every way to the H22A4 exhaust valves. See measurements below.













VALVE SPECS (measured by me):
NOTE: H23A is the NON-VTEC, US-Spec 92-96 Prelude engine, not the Torneo/JDM H23 VTEC engine.

INTAKE VALVES (Face) (Length) (Stem Diameter) (OEM Honda Part Number):
F20B: 34mm (1.338"), 107.00mm (4.212"), 5.5mm (0.215"), 14711-PCB-000
H23A: 34mm (1.338"), 104.00mm (4.095"), 6.5mm (0.256"), 14711-PT2-000
H22A4:35mm (1.380"), 107.00mm (4.212"), 5.5mm (0.215"), 14711-P13-000
F22A1:34mm (1.338"), 112.00mm (4.410"), 5.5mm (0.215"), 14711-PT3-A00

EXHAUST VALVES (Face) (Length) (Stem Diameter):
F20B: 30mm (1.182"), 107.00mm (4.212"), 5.5mm (0.215"), 14721-PCB-000
H23A: 29mm (1.142"), 104.00mm (4.095"), 6.5mm (0.256"), 14721-PT2-000
H22A4:30mm (1.182"), 107.00mm (4.212"), 5.5mm (0.215"), 14721-P13-000
F22A1:29mm (1.142"), 124.000mm (4.882"), 5.5mm (0.215"), 14721-P0J-A00







INTERNET: H22A4 timing belt will fit the F20B.

TRUTH: It will physically "fit" and the internet is saying that one is a 155 tooth and one is a 156 tooth. This is false. They are both 155 tooth. The difference (verified by myself and by HMotorsOnline where I got the OEM F20B Timing belt from) is that the F20B belt is the same length, but it is actually WIDER (as are the cam gears). GET THE RIGHT BELT FOR THIS ENGINE. You'll thank yourself later. The crankshaft pulley is still the same width (PCB vs P13) but the cam gears appear to be different.

F20B Belt #01641-PCB-305:
- Width: 24mm (0.945")
- Tooth Distance (tooth to tooth): 8.00mm (0.315")
- Number of Teeth: 155

H22A Belt #14400-P13-014:
- Width: 23mm (0.9055")
- Tooth Distance (tooth to tooth): 8.00mm (0.315")
- Number of Teeth: 155












INTERNET: H22A4 Valve springs, guides, and valve stem seals, as well as camshaft and camshaft seals will all fit the F20B.

TRUTH: This is correct. Identical sizes.



Other Information:
Head Studs/Bolts:
OEM F20B Head Studs/Bolts:
- Overall Length:
- Diameter: 12mm
ARP H22 Head Studs (#208-4304):
- Overall Length: 209.55mm (8.250")
- Diameter: 12mm

Main Studs/Bolts:
OEM F20B Main Studs:
- Overall Length: 131.50mm (5.177")
- Diameter: 10mm (same thread pitch as H22A4)
OEM H22A4 Main Studs (Part # 90007-PAA-T01):
- Overall Length: 131.50mm (5.177")
- Diameter: 10mm (same thread pitch as F20B too)
ARP H22A4 Head Studs (#208-5401):
- Overall Length: 136mm (5.351")
- Diameter: 11mm (wider shank, but same thread pitch as F20B and H22A)

F20b97AccordLx

Whoa

great info

I am currently using a H22a4 timing belt on my f20b but i will be switching it out shortly, could explain why it was a bitch to get on and line up right.

thanks for the info

Z-freak

Post #519 updated.... H22A4 belt IS different. See above.

victahh

hey guys. i literally have read through all the pages of this thread and i got quite a bit of my questions answered.
so i just wanna make sure i have all my info correct before i start my swap.

just a FYI, im swapping the F20b in my 96 Accord Ex, which is OBD2.
im going for a stock setup really. and i'd like to keep my power steering and a/c too. if anything, im just gonna be running i/h/e.
so far, i know im gonna need
H22 intake manifold
H22 downpipe

ive also read i can keep these parts off my f22b1 and put on the f20b.
confirmation would be appreciated
f22b1 motor mounts
alternator
power steering pump
crank pulley



any other parts im missing?
also, im planning on using the wire harness and ECU from the f20b. since the f20b is OBD2, do i have to do any cutting, extensions to the harness?
how about the distributor? which one should i use if im staying OBD2?


i would also like to keep my car as quite as it is now.(stock f22b1 exhaust all the way through)
which exhaust setup would you guys recommend?
preferably OEM.

all help and info is greatly appreciated!
this is literally the only thread ive seen where the f20b has been discussed so much.
hell yeah!

F20b97AccordLx

Finally after being so lazy and falling in to depression i decided to start working on my car was able to clear all cel lights and one problem left......idle surge......replaced tps/iacv/checked all vaccum lines/bleed coolant/checked the FITV everything seemed good but problem still.

Finally after hours of research about skunk 2 intake manifold.....my throttle body gasket was the issue. went to auto zone 5 bucks later new gasket made and idles damn beautiful. Waiting for this weekend to really get to enjoy the f20b for the first time.

Love this thread so much help and great info.

quickwa1

Hey all,

I am kinda new here and I am planning a swap that doesn't seem to be all that common or popular (or at least it used to, some of the info I have been reading is pretty old). I have a 97 Civic Ex Coupe (I thought it was chassis code EK9 which now I think is the hatch version, but I have seen conflicting info that says it's an EJ8) <some one will clear that up quick I am sure, I can find that info easy though

Okay, as many already know I am running a D16y8 SOHC Vtec. It's a manual transmission, and by the wheel spin and torque steer I am pretty sure it's not LSD, lol. I plan on going with the ultra controversial F20B T2T4 LSD swap from an 97-00 SiR JDM Accord. I already know all of the traditional arguments. H23 has more torque, FRM sleeves are the bomb, better wider earlier torque curve, readily available parts/swap kits, cheaper sourced engine (which doesn't seem to be true at all anymore), just turbo my Y8 (well it needs engine work and I think I can do this for slightly more with what I have found). The D16 might only need a head gasket, but I am weighing my options if it needs more.

I have already found several sources for complete JDM pull outs that are actually pretty reasonably priced considering the H motors are going for a thousand for block and head (maybe they have int/exh mani, maybe they have harness, ignition and injectors. The pull outs I have found are typically low mileage (30-60k) and they come complete with ecu, harness, trans, shift cables (on a few), half shaft (on many), inner axle (on a few), at least two have downpipe and o2 pipe, at least 2 have all stock accord mount brackets and shifter box. The one I was looking at particularly had eng, trans, ecu, harness, mount brackets, half shaft, inner axle, int mani, exh mani, down pipe and test pipe all for around 1750 usd, plus shipping 200 usd to TN. So less than 2k and I have everything I need, but.... and this is where you guys chime in .

Actually, I am much further along in my research than that. Aren't you all proud of me? Okay so I am not planning on doing some ridiculous build with custom ECUs and remaps and special wiring (although I know there will be a little bit), special build, special head, H/K tranny yadda yadda etc etc.... so on and so forth. One reason for this is to reduce the amount of additional stuff I have seen people needing to do, extra dizzy wiring, IAC wiring issues, ob1-ob2 and ob2-ob1 issues, injector modding/rewiring. This is my plan. Straight, F20B stock swap and I will probably keep my y8 completely together and attempt to resell to recoup some of my investment (or to finish, whichever comes first lol). There is a possibility that one day I may turbo, but that is one day and after another project I have in the works. I need to get my daily driver back cause my gas gulzzler isn't cutting it . The most extreme I may get with the build in the early stages is a wire tuck, but I don't want to spend a ton of time doing custom work at first though. I am the type that if I start to dig into it I will have to go all the way, so getting it in stock asap is important .

This is what I have learned so far about this swap from the F20B FAQ. Assuming I get the most complete setup that I mentioned above, I will only need to swap to a 90-97 accord half shaft and use 90-93 integra axles (or keep my half shaft and rebuild an 88-89 integra axle with a 92-96 prelude inner axle and put 90-93 integra axle on pass side), get/fab Hswap mounts, some radiator/heater hoses, weld up some exhaust and wire up the chassis side electronics (gauges and what not)? I am fully capable of notching existing hole or drilling new holes for relocating pieces that I have from my D and coming with the swap on the chassis side. I am also capable of welding a bracket here and there if needed (not a pro welder, it's not pretty, but it will be strong, lol ). If there is anything else that I am missing that will cause a major issue in my swap please feel free to chime in. Thanks for all that I have learned already and for any assistance I receive from the community in the future. F ur K, lol I read that on another post <3 it, no disrespect to the K series guys I know they are some serious engines.

Lildj2983

i have a 99 prelude with the f20b swapped in before i got it. ok. changed the charcoal cannister a egr valve,and couple other sensors for emission. nolonger throwing the codes for emission. i also changed the timing belt(to make sure timing was correct),plugs,plug wires,cap and rotor,pcv valve. the only 2 codes i have left are p0172-p0170. and cant get them to turn off. also have replaced the oxygen sensors. going from USDM to JDM engine what would cause the restriction issue. theres nothing restricting the exhaust or the air intake tube. i noticed whoever done the swap though has used the H series intake and ECU,and has an external mounted coil. any ideas of what to look at would be greatful. i dont care about it running rich. i just want to be able to drive it without having to worry about a geo metro passing me up!