crxhondata

hello everyone i have some questions i went junkyard shooping last sunday morning and i found a acura integra ls 95 with trans and motor and shift linkage ??.. i was thinking getting the trans and parts to make a f2b with my f20b ?? can i do that will the stock motor mounts will work on the f20b what about rear mount..axles.shaft.??cluch and flywheel?? the only i think i need get is just the adapter?? and would the ls trans will be a good start ??

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

Technically yes for a few things above but....

1) You need the entire kit not just the adapter
2) You need to use B series mounts and if you planned to use stock B series mounts, even on the QSD site, it states to, at the very least, urethane inserts (though new fresh aftermarket mounts would be best
3) You can use those axles, linkage, rear trans bracket, flywheel, clutch (get a new one) and shaft
4) At the very least, get a GSR trans if not a B16 or even a Type R trans. LS trans has pretty long gearing and you wouldnt get the most out of it

oneoffaccord

i got a set of RC 310cc from my friends prelude h23 setup a few years ago. they have been rarely used. so from the post before f20b injectors are 310cc? so i should have no problem using these at all. unless they are peak/hold or saturateed. right?

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

Bingo. Most likely those RC injectors (if used on the H23) most likely means they are peak and hold (around 2 ohms) If used in an Accord or OBD0 Civics and Tegs they will work just fine. If used in OBD1 and newer, a resistor box is needed.

By your username im going to assume its an Accord. They'll be just fine if thats the case

oneoffaccord

i do own a 1990 accord with a h23 turbo but im installing this in a 95 civic ex. so pretty much these injectors are no go then for my civic. so ill just use the f20b injectors and plice the wiring or get a passwordjdm injectors harness and call it aday. but i wanna use the euro-r intake manifold instead. im pretty sure i can use a 90-93 accord fuel rail with the f20b injectors or not?

mrdale90

What ecu did you use to get it to work? the chipped p28? or the f20b ecu?

oneoffaccord

im going to be using a chipped p28 with either a h22 map or a f20b map

mrdale90

well the problem that I encountered with the chipped p28 is that you have to get it tuned just right otherwise it wont work without having problems. Once I had those problems I purchased a conversion harness from obd1 to obd2, and also bought a f20b ecu and plugged it up and solved pretty much every problem that I was having. now the problem that I'm having is I cant rev over 4100. Its almost like it hits a llimiter or something. The only thing that I can figure is that I have a manual trans and I'm running a auto ecu. I tried looking for a manual trans ecu for the f20b, but thats almost impossible.

oneoffaccord

are you throwing a check engine light? normally if a car wont rev past 4k its a bad ecu

scvludedood

im running the stock obd2 h22 ecu. is this fine or am i missing out on possible power?

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

You can use those ih23 njectors you would just need to add a resistor box. F20B injectors are actually about 3/8 shorter so you have to mod your rail spacers to accept them. Pull out the pins from your stock connector and put the F20B one on in its place. Thats what i did for 3 others

oneoffaccord

thanks for the info. i made a thread on here but cant find it but maybe you could help me out. i got a auto f20b and i was wondering if i can swap in the type s cams without having a valvtrain problem?

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

The manual F20b (SIR-T) has stiffer valve springs than its SIR counterpart. And about 3 years ago I spoke with an English-speaker from a parts dealer in Singapore who told me the SIR and SIR-T have different part numbers for their valvesprings as does the H22A and H22A Type S. So at the least get some springs (not too stiff for the Type S cams). Cause if you do not and you know how much the F20B likes revving, valve float with the Type S cams will happen eventually

crxhondata

thanks for help you know where is cheap h2b kit online? i try ebay but is just to high for me at this moment

oneoffaccord

so what i will do is get springs and retainers and call it aday. im pretty sure i can install them without taking off the head of the block.(motor isnt in the car)

oneoffaccord

just checked out JHPUSA and they have Supertech retainers and springs. would these be good enough or too stiff? what would u recommend?

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

Supertech will be fine.

scvludedood

so does anyone know if i can bore the f20b to 86mm?

SiR-T Erich

Hello everyone. New to the sight and a rather noobish machanic. I am knowledgable, but I have very little experience. I just got to Okinawa a few months ago and I bought a 97 Honda Accord SiR-T. I wasn't too sure what I was getting when I did, but now I love this thing and am planning to bring it back to the states when my tour ends. While I am here I want to make a few mild upgrades to make it a pretty aggressive daily. I can only have one mode of transportation here so I can't put her down for too long. I mainly just want to get advice on intake(cold air, TB, manifold), Headers, ignition, and fuel upgrades. The previous owner already put a nice cat back on it that gives it a quiet, yet profound signature roar. I will post some picks as soon as I can. Any advice on aftermarket companies that carry parts for the F20B motor, what I should keep stock, and any ECU problems I may encounter while performing afor mentioned upgrades would be appreciated. Just email me on here or at my home email(elavelle47@gmail.com) or AIM me at (Phoenixredmption). If you do IM me though, remember that I am 14 hours ahead EST, so I may not reply. All of you seem extremely knowledgable and experienced and I hope to hear from you soon. Thank you.

A1C Sutherby

PS: My car redlines at 7200. How would I go about changing that to what you guys were talking? 8200-8500

scvludedood

is it an auto? maybe the auto has a lower redline from the factory?

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

Well just to inform you in case you didnt know but that (7200rpm) is where your car peaks its horsepower (200). The auto makes 180hp at 7000rpm. From the factory that is where the motor physically stops making power. Yes you can extend the rpm at the moment to land in the powerband between shifts, yet it still will not make power past that point. Cams, a GOOD header, intake manifold, valve springs can extend the powerband but these motors have redlines for a reason. Even though it might seem cool and all, but the more/higher you rev, the lower the motor's life expectancy. But strengthening the motor to handle the extra rpms would be the best thing to do before trying to raise the rev limiter.

As for mods you can do something for fuel upgrades but before that are there any tuners in your area? You wouldnt need to upgrade the injectors if the motor wont see extensive mods (if you're only doing basically an intake and header since you have an exhaust already) once you start putting cams or large plenum manifolds then you may want ot step up the injector, in which case the car should be tuned. You would need to get yourself familiar with your ecu plugs because extending the rpm will require you to change the ecu (worse case scenario is that you'd have to run the Hondata obd2a or obd2b) but im not sure if your ecu runs your power steering (since its electronic). Is your power steering controlled by the ecu or does it have its own module?

SiR-T Erich

scvludedood: It is a manual.

jr deleon: Well you have certainly given me a lot to think about. You're right I shouldn't go messing with the redline. As far as a tuner shop, I have no idea if there is one around. Most places I go to, no one speaks very good or any english. It is quite frustrating, but then again, we are in their country after all. I am not sure if the EPS has its own module or not. I will have to do some more research on this car. Thanks.

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

It's not to say that it isn't safe, but in your case with limited tuners (Im pretty sure that they are around but the language barrier makes it obsolete) its more than the headache it could be worth. If i even postd a few pics of what my F20B looks like, you would probably see one of the most modified NA F20B's around (alot of work done, including work to make this thing rev sky high)

I'd LOVE to have that car. Post up some pics. Please dont tell me its black or red. I wanted one as soon as i saw its pics at the original Honda press meet when i was a little kid.

audiophile26

hello all just by reading this thread i have had a lot of questions answered like the vtec solenoid problem the IACV problem and the squre plug above the oil filter problem.
BUT
i do have a few more questions i feel would be pertinent
i am putting an obd2 f20b into a 1990 accord lx
first do i need to use the resistor box?(using the 310s that came with the engine)
second is it okay for me to use the h22a dizzy i have for this engine(it bolts right up and works with my existing harness)
third i plan to use a p13 to run this engine is that okay as well?

F20b97AccordLx

Ok so i am trying to do this F20b swap for my 97 accord lx i am totally new and have been trying to find research on what i would need for this swap to happen. from what i been reading i been able to peice together a few things that i would be needing so far i have.

F20b motor
Skunk2 H22 Intake Manifold
97-01 Lude Headers
P13 ecu with obd2-1 conversion harness
power steering bracket (using stock accord pump heard it works)
reusing accord alt/AC/water pump (getting lude belts and hoses)
Has Sport mount (drivers side)
Using F20b Distibutor (rewiring seems like a good idea)(if not which one would i need)
Stock accord Tranny (manual....cant afford H tranny)
AEM SRI intake (heard the one i have for my accord fits...if not can always buy a new one)

but yea im not sure on what else i would need? and also on how to customize my accord harness to work with the F20b. I hear alot about extending but i have no clue on what. i think the trottle cable but liek i said im totally new to this. Any help would be great I have a month to get this swap done or i have to give it up =\