Built B20B4 block.
01-17-2004, 05:05 PM
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Built B20B4 block.
I have a CRvtec with a B16 head. I'm planning on building the block for turbo and having all the parts balanced. What have others used to build it and have they balanced all the parts? The balancing part is my biggest concern.
01-17-2004, 09:06 PM
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Re: Built B20B4 block. (roots01)
you'll deffinatly want to sleeve the block, that is the weekest part of the engine. some forged rods and pistons would do you good but arn't required. It really depends on your goals.
What turbo at what PSI are you wanting to run?
What turbo at what PSI are you wanting to run?
01-18-2004, 08:03 AM
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Re: Built B20B4 block. (DollyLlama)
right now i'm going to run a T3 at 5psi w/o the motor built. I was told when I build it with a block guard, pistons, rods and all that good stuff I'll be able to put 15psi on the motor. I'm really wondering about the balancing of the parts.
01-18-2004, 05:04 PM
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Re: Built B20B4 block. (roots01)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roots01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a CRvtec with a B16 head. I'm planning on building the block for turbo and having all the parts balanced. What have others used to build it and have they balanced all the parts? The balancing part is my biggest concern.</TD></TR></TABLE>what you can do is get earl, to balance and micro polish your crank. get a gsr or type r oil pump, water pump, and the timing belt. if you want to boost hard, the first thing i would tell you is to sleeve the block! good luck!
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01-19-2004, 02:11 PM
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Re: Built B20B4 block. (roots01)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roots01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the info but would you balance the pistons and rods too?</TD></TR></TABLE>
why not, if you have the money and time do it
why not, if you have the money and time do it
01-20-2004, 02:50 AM
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Re: Built B20B4 block. (smokey2.0)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokey2.0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why not, if you have the money and time do it </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the problem. Since I don't have the money, can my motor live without them balanced. I was told that it will cause problems in the long run. The car is going to be sold within the next 6-8 months anyways.
why not, if you have the money and time do it
</TD></TR></TABLE>That's the problem. Since I don't have the money, can my motor live without them balanced. I was told that it will cause problems in the long run. The car is going to be sold within the next 6-8 months anyways.
01-20-2004, 02:00 PM
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Re: Built B20B4 block. (roots01)
sure you can live without them being balanced.
most shops charge between $80 and $150 to balance everything.
rotationally balancing the-
crank, crank pulley, flywheel, pressure plate.
weight balancing (matching) the-
rods on pistons with rings installed
its easy to have a shop do if you have the parts apart from the motor.
most shops charge between $80 and $150 to balance everything.
rotationally balancing the-
crank, crank pulley, flywheel, pressure plate.
weight balancing (matching) the-
rods on pistons with rings installed
its easy to have a shop do if you have the parts apart from the motor.
01-20-2004, 04:13 PM
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Re: Built B20B4 block. (roots01)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roots01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's the problem. Since I don't have the money, can my motor live without them balanced. I was told that it will cause problems in the long run. The car is going to be sold within the next 6-8 months anyways.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i been running like that, for the past two years!
That's the problem. Since I don't have the money, can my motor live without them balanced. I was told that it will cause problems in the long run. The car is going to be sold within the next 6-8 months anyways.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i been running like that, for the past two years!
01-27-2004, 08:55 PM
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yes.just balance your piston ,rods,and crank and fly wheel.since people change out clutch's
they most of the time leave that out.
you can take your chances,since balancing is mostly for the high rpm range,and if you have money to blow.
they most of the time leave that out.
you can take your chances,since balancing is mostly for the high rpm range,and if you have money to blow.
01-29-2004, 03:48 PM
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Re: (roots01)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roots01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">right now i'm going to run a T3 at 5psi w/o the motor built. I was told when I build it with a block guard, pistons, rods and all that good stuff I'll be able to put 15psi on the motor. I'm really wondering about the balancing of the parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
although balancing is a good thing to do..... i would concentrate more on sleeving your motor.... your sleeves are the thinest b-series sleeves and have been known to crack in even all-motor setups. personally i think block guards are gay cuz they hurt cooling.... if you have the money to turbo i would definately sleeve the block.
and to whoever said it before b20 oil pumps ARE THE SAME as Gsr/Type R or at least they have the EXACT same part numbers and only Honda Sales Reps can tell the difference.... hehe jk
although balancing is a good thing to do..... i would concentrate more on sleeving your motor.... your sleeves are the thinest b-series sleeves and have been known to crack in even all-motor setups. personally i think block guards are gay cuz they hurt cooling.... if you have the money to turbo i would definately sleeve the block.
and to whoever said it before b20 oil pumps ARE THE SAME as Gsr/Type R or at least they have the EXACT same part numbers and only Honda Sales Reps can tell the difference.... hehe jk
01-31-2004, 01:48 PM
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Re: Built B20B4 block. (tinkerbell)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tinkerbell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i 'heard' the B20B oil pump is same as Type R one...</TD></TR></TABLE>
B20Z is the same as ITR
B20Z is the same as ITR
01-31-2004, 07:31 PM
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Re: (jdmDXrex)
I've heard that the cylinder walls are thin and crack real easy. A trusted mechanic told me to use a block guard for now and my motor would be able to hold up to 15 psi. I doesn't matter now though because the car has to be sold since I'm moving to Alaska. I will have a 400 hp GSR motor by the time I get back though. Thanks for the info anyways.
02-02-2004, 01:45 PM
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Re: (roots01)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roots01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've heard that the cylinder walls are thin and crack real easy. A trusted mechanic told me to use a block guard for now and my motor would be able to hold up to 15 psi. I doesn't matter now though because the car has to be sold since I'm moving to Alaska. I will have a 400 hp GSR motor by the time I get back though. Thanks for the info anyways.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Okay first off I hate blockguards and will never build a motor with one but that's just me... The B20's sleeves aren't weak in that they can't handle the outward pressure (which with a blockguard will be exerted to the outer wall of the block) it's more the sleeves design from cylinder to cylinder... Since they're iron inserts are all one piece, if you get a crack it can simply run in between cylinders where as with just about any other B series block (i.e B16A, B18A/B B18C/1/5) each iron lining is on it's own surrounded by the aluminum water jacket... In the past we've run stock sleeved (84.50mm at the biggest) 12.0:1+ without any problems never cracking a sleeve... That's in the NA world tho... Under boost it's up to you how much you wanna throw at it, I just don't necessarily think you're going to gain any strength from sleeve to sleeve (you actually might increase sleeve to sleeve pressure)... Just my $0.02...
Okay first off I hate blockguards and will never build a motor with one but that's just me... The B20's sleeves aren't weak in that they can't handle the outward pressure (which with a blockguard will be exerted to the outer wall of the block) it's more the sleeves design from cylinder to cylinder... Since they're iron inserts are all one piece, if you get a crack it can simply run in between cylinders where as with just about any other B series block (i.e B16A, B18A/B B18C/1/5) each iron lining is on it's own surrounded by the aluminum water jacket... In the past we've run stock sleeved (84.50mm at the biggest) 12.0:1+ without any problems never cracking a sleeve... That's in the NA world tho... Under boost it's up to you how much you wanna throw at it, I just don't necessarily think you're going to gain any strength from sleeve to sleeve (you actually might increase sleeve to sleeve pressure)... Just my $0.02...
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