turbodsmpower

I went to the local machine shop here in town to see what they would charge to get some work down to the bottom end to get my lsvtec project going. This is a list of what i wanted as far as work to be done you tell me if it is necessary or not.

Shotpeen stock rods and polish
weld oil hole on head and resurface head ( they said would need to take all the valves out to do this so might as well do a vavle job)
chamfer oiling holes on crank to allow more oil flow
full balanced assembly
hone out cylinder bores for new rings
relocate dowel pins

I believe basically that was it they want to charge around 6-800 to do this. They did my buddies block just like this and he has no issues, but is this a little expensive? Do i need to chamfer the oiling holes in the crank? I was planning on doing ARP mainstuds to make sure its all held in place? Are they necessary or can i leave it stock? Is balancing necessary I see alot of people just slapping vtec pistons in putting on type r oilpump on stock rod bolts and mainstuds and making 200+whp w/ the right cams of course.

the crank turns fine by hand right now. Can i reuse bearings? I am going to be using ARP rod bolts and headstuds as well.

I plan on spinning this motor to about 9k or so wherever horsepower drops off. I will end up using nothing smaller than skunk stage 2 cams toda b or jun 2 on the head w/ valvetrain of course.

I dont want to go into this motor a year later.

Jeff C

I dont see why they need to remove the valves.
If you want to rev to 9k, then yes get it balanced.
DONT REUSE ANY BEARINGS!!!!!
It will be a little difficult to get 200+ unless you go with some higher comp pistons.

tnbigdawg

yep, do it all.......new bearings, valves, pistons, balance, etc...With that price, it sounds good IMO.

I didn't have my Ls/VTEC balanced, but i sort of balanced the pistons and rods combo myself. My engine redlines at 8.5K and I havent had any problems. But I suggest you balance it anyways if you got the cash.

BROOD

Shotpeen stock rods and polish
more impotantly if using oem rods, you should have the oem rod bolts replaced with ARP bolts
weld oil hole on head and resurface head ( they said would need to take all the valves out to do this so might as well do a vavle job)
Personally I would not weld the hole, I would have it tapped and thread a small allen plug in there to block the passage off. Use locktite and as a percaution stake the plug in the hole. At least this would allw you to transfer the head to a Vtec block later...or make it sellable to a Vtec block owner later.
chamfer oiling holes on crank to allow more oil flow
Can't hurt but I have never done that operation to a street prep engine...no problems yet. Proper oil clearance in the bearing is more important.
full balanced assembly
A good idea, include the crank, crank pulley, rods, rod bearings, pistons, pins, rings, flywheel, clutch assembly
hone out cylinder bores for new rings
also a good idea
relocate dowel pins
a 13.98-13.99mm reamer will do the trick, 14mm is alittle too large and will leave some slop in the dowel pin joint.

New bearings (rods, mains, and thrust) are a mandatory item. Please plastigauge to check the oil clearances. The price seems a bit high to me for the work you described. I've had the Vtec head conversion work done for $35 before (dowels and oil hole). Balancing my entire rotating assembly and micropolishing the crank never costs me more than $100 or so. I'd shop around to other good rep shops and compare the prices.

Good luck with your project