Back on the road, thanks! and need some help still...y8 swap
02-01-2004, 04:44 PM
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Back on the road, thanks! and need some help still...y8 swap
Well, she's back on the road. My 92 Si with the Y8 is not quite 100%, but good enough to drive finally!
I really want to thank people from here for all their input during the swap.
Problem remaining is the EACV is not functioning as it should, its not oscillating, because it's not getting the right signal (on-off-on-off-on, etc) from the ECU, the ECU is not sending the right signal because it's not seeing what it wants to from some input lead/sensor. The ECU is not malfunctioning, both a known-good ECU and mine both act the same way.
What tells the ECU the rpm level? Is it output from the distributer? I'm using a y8 distributer with my obd 1 system (YES, wiring is correct). Does the obd1 and obd2 distributer maybe give different values/signals?
The solution for the meantime is to keep my idle high enough because when the idle drops and hits about 400-500rpm, the ECU trips code 14 (EACV) assuming that since the rpm is low, the EACV didn't kick in, and so it must be defective (but it's not! we've tested it!).
So when I start it cold, I have to give it a bit of gas and it cold idles at about 2100 rpm (yes, very high), then warms up and drops to 750rpm (where it should be) BUT thats with the idle screw cranked wide open though. With the screw in where it should be set, it idles about 400-450 and trips code 14.
When I turn on any load (headlights, defogger, etc.) the idle drops a bit and the EACV is supposed to kick in to bring it back up. It doesn't. SO, at some stop lights, if my idle dips to low because of my power draw, I'll trip a code 14 right there. So I have to make sure my throttle is open a bit to leep my idle up.
When it trips a code 14, the engine will not rev past 1500rpm (surges at 1500). So I have to turn the motor off, then restart it, giving it a bit of gas at starting so the idle doesn't come near 400-450.
Basically, I'm missing about 300rpm that is SUPPOSED to be generated from the EACV allowing air into the engine.
Its not the EACV.
It's not the ECU.
But it's driveable and hauls pretty good! I forgot what good compression feels like :D
I really want to thank people from here for all their input during the swap.
Problem remaining is the EACV is not functioning as it should, its not oscillating, because it's not getting the right signal (on-off-on-off-on, etc) from the ECU, the ECU is not sending the right signal because it's not seeing what it wants to from some input lead/sensor. The ECU is not malfunctioning, both a known-good ECU and mine both act the same way.
What tells the ECU the rpm level? Is it output from the distributer? I'm using a y8 distributer with my obd 1 system (YES, wiring is correct). Does the obd1 and obd2 distributer maybe give different values/signals?
The solution for the meantime is to keep my idle high enough because when the idle drops and hits about 400-500rpm, the ECU trips code 14 (EACV) assuming that since the rpm is low, the EACV didn't kick in, and so it must be defective (but it's not! we've tested it!).
So when I start it cold, I have to give it a bit of gas and it cold idles at about 2100 rpm (yes, very high), then warms up and drops to 750rpm (where it should be) BUT thats with the idle screw cranked wide open though. With the screw in where it should be set, it idles about 400-450 and trips code 14.
When I turn on any load (headlights, defogger, etc.) the idle drops a bit and the EACV is supposed to kick in to bring it back up. It doesn't. SO, at some stop lights, if my idle dips to low because of my power draw, I'll trip a code 14 right there. So I have to make sure my throttle is open a bit to leep my idle up.
When it trips a code 14, the engine will not rev past 1500rpm (surges at 1500). So I have to turn the motor off, then restart it, giving it a bit of gas at starting so the idle doesn't come near 400-450.
Basically, I'm missing about 300rpm that is SUPPOSED to be generated from the EACV allowing air into the engine.
Its not the EACV.
It's not the ECU.
But it's driveable and hauls pretty good! I forgot what good compression feels like :D
02-03-2004, 03:51 PM
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Re: Back on the road, thanks! and need some help still...y8 swap (civic_rider)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic_rider »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What tells the ECU the rpm level? Is it output from the distributer? I'm using a y8 distributer with my obd 1 system (YES, wiring is correct). Does the obd1 and obd2 distributer maybe give different values/signals?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The ECU reads the RPM directly from the distributor via the ignitor through only 1 wire. If that's not hooked up, the car will not start. The OBD-1 and OBD-2 distributors work EXACTLY the same - the RPM wire is colored yellow/grn on the distributor harness. You can use an OBD-2 dizzy on an OBD-1 system, and vice versa.
So, simply put, if you're able to drive the car and rev it past 3500 rpms - then your distributor harness wiring is correct.
From what it sounds like, you either have an intake leak somewhere around the intake manifold, your fuel pressure is too low or too high, timing is off (cam or ignition), OR your IACV and/or the wiring that leads to the IACV is incorrect or bad.
Honestly, it really sounds like it's the IACV itself. Get yourself a HELMS manual and check the wiring harness (for cracks/fraying) and the IACV the way it tells you to. Or if you're impatient, just try another IACV....
I really doubt it's anything else.
The ECU reads the RPM directly from the distributor via the ignitor through only 1 wire. If that's not hooked up, the car will not start. The OBD-1 and OBD-2 distributors work EXACTLY the same - the RPM wire is colored yellow/grn on the distributor harness. You can use an OBD-2 dizzy on an OBD-1 system, and vice versa.
So, simply put, if you're able to drive the car and rev it past 3500 rpms - then your distributor harness wiring is correct.
From what it sounds like, you either have an intake leak somewhere around the intake manifold, your fuel pressure is too low or too high, timing is off (cam or ignition), OR your IACV and/or the wiring that leads to the IACV is incorrect or bad.
Honestly, it really sounds like it's the IACV itself. Get yourself a HELMS manual and check the wiring harness (for cracks/fraying) and the IACV the way it tells you to. Or if you're impatient, just try another IACV....
I really doubt it's anything else.
02-03-2004, 07:34 PM
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Re: Back on the road, thanks! and need some help still...y8 swap (MrTodd)
hmmm thanks... 
I have the HONDA service manual for the car, and in it's 1800 pages it tells how to bench test the eacv. It WORKS no problem...
continuity between the EACV plug and the ECU is also good. *sigh*... I was gonna try the obd1 dist as a last ditch effort, but I suspected as much they were identical....
I have the HONDA service manual for the car, and in it's 1800 pages it tells how to bench test the eacv. It WORKS no problem...
continuity between the EACV plug and the ECU is also good. *sigh*... I was gonna try the obd1 dist as a last ditch effort, but I suspected as much they were identical....
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