B20B EG help...
05-05-2002, 11:31 AM
#26
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Re: B20B EG help... (daver)
you use the existing harness...and 250$ US is about 375 canadian plus shipping and whatever...OBD2 to OBD1 from engine harness= 0$ canadian, just time 
it's not about being cheap, it's about being smart foo
it's not about being cheap, it's about being smart foo
05-05-2002, 11:48 AM
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Re: B20B EG help... (T.O.tegs)
it's not about being cheap, it's about being smart foo
05-05-2002, 12:58 PM
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Re: B20B EG help... (T.O.tegs)
yep, i'm sure the USDM b20b would have a much higher hp rating than the 126 if it had the b20z manifold or the ls one, of course. The 8.8 cr isn't that much lower than the ls's 9.2, so it should get at least as much hp as an ls, if tuned like one (not to mention all the tork). I guess those engines are under rated, 'cause some of the dynos i've seen on those jdm b's are nearly 160 flywheel equivalent hp.
I've read that each full point in cr should yield a 7% power increase. So what's that, about 10 hp for the z pistons over the b? Funny how the two crv's here both are rated at the same peak tork tho; guess that's the intake manifold and tuning (unles they're lying).
Its definately the orthia car that had the ls manifold with it (at least), that car also has the ls engine available in the low end model. Weird thing is that they claim the b20b from that car has a 9.2:1 cr, never heard of those pistons.
d
I've read that each full point in cr should yield a 7% power increase. So what's that, about 10 hp for the z pistons over the b? Funny how the two crv's here both are rated at the same peak tork tho; guess that's the intake manifold and tuning (unles they're lying).
Its definately the orthia car that had the ls manifold with it (at least), that car also has the ls engine available in the low end model. Weird thing is that they claim the b20b from that car has a 9.2:1 cr, never heard of those pistons.
d
05-05-2002, 03:15 PM
#29
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Re: B20B EG help... (sparq)
how hard is it to do, everytime I see anything involving plugs they tell you to pull it out and "re-pin" it to hole whatever number it may be.... how the hell you get the "pins" out?
use a small sharp insertion and 'click' the retaining clasp off from the inside of the pin then slide it out...
that's what hybrid is about - not dollars or brand names.
anyways, daver - this sucks, no-one knows and people keep spouting the latest **** they read off some website, without really checking whether it is legitimate info...
im just going with a '96 JDM block and crossing my fingers that when the head comes off, its got the right pistons, damn, i think ill even calculate the CR myself!!!
t..
05-05-2002, 10:24 PM
#31
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Re: B20B EG help... (b20zkid)
Just one stupid question. What is the factory redline (on the B20 ecu) on those JDM B20's? Additionally does the B20 run lean when it is running on the P75 also what are the differences between the B18B and the B20? I am considering this swap also!
[Modified by FrostyDC4, 11:43 PM 5/5/2002]
[Modified by FrostyDC4, 11:43 PM 5/5/2002]
05-06-2002, 12:35 AM
#32
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Re: B20B EG help... (FrostyDC4)
um, id say the fuel maps will run lean (from theory) but a adj FPR could assist here,
as will 310cc injectors which are recommended past 200whp...
any hands on experience in this area? T.Otegs?
i dont think there are any differences between the B18 and B20 (apart from the bore) (correct me if im wrong!!??)
i dont know the redline though...
it does sound like a good swap, i cant wait to get my block!!!
hth,
t..
as will 310cc injectors which are recommended past 200whp...
any hands on experience in this area? T.Otegs?
i dont think there are any differences between the B18 and B20 (apart from the bore) (correct me if im wrong!!??)
i dont know the redline though...
it does sound like a good swap, i cant wait to get my block!!!
hth,
t..
05-06-2002, 02:12 PM
#33
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Re: B20B EG help... (tinkerbell)
all B20B/Z that I've seen have come with either the FWD auto tranny or the AWD tranny, therefore the B20's ecu is never used when this engine is swaped in with an SiR/LS/GSR 5spd...best ecu to use would be OBD1 P74(92-93 integra non-vtec 5spd) or OBD1 P75(94-95 integra non-vtec 5spd) if your car is already OBD1 or use an OBD2 P75 if your car is 96+
I'm not sure if the B20B is running lean but I've heard that an adjustable FPR does wonders for this swap...like I stated earlier we will be dynoing this set-up with the addition of an AEM FPR/B&M guage and I will update which fuel pressure settings where best with the stock injectors as well as the #s we put down...
also, B20B/Z has the same stroke as the B18A/B, the bigger displacement is achieved due to the stock 84mm bore
[Modified by T.O.tegs, 11:33 PM 5/6/2002]
I'm not sure if the B20B is running lean but I've heard that an adjustable FPR does wonders for this swap...like I stated earlier we will be dynoing this set-up with the addition of an AEM FPR/B&M guage and I will update which fuel pressure settings where best with the stock injectors as well as the #s we put down...
also, B20B/Z has the same stroke as the B18A/B, the bigger displacement is achieved due to the stock 84mm bore
[Modified by T.O.tegs, 11:33 PM 5/6/2002]
05-06-2002, 02:33 PM
#34
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Re: B20B EG help... (T.O.tegs)
Dude i had the same problem and "plan B" solved it.
if you look at the throttle body, there is a valve on the bottom, w 3 10 mm bolts going into it from the bottom. There is a coolant hose going into it also. On the back, towards firewall, of the valve there is a cover with 2 8mm/ phillips screws, take the cover off and there is a metal bullet looking thing with a white plastic ring around it. This thing becomes loose over time and can be screwed back in. This makes the vacume leak, and that's why that happens. Also, if your intake manifold gasket is damaged, that will cause it also.
-when i pulled it off and looked sure enough the plastic screw was out of place, i screw it back in and it ******* worked. I had that idling problem for 3 months, and u don;t know how happy i was when it was fixed.
good luck
if you look at the throttle body, there is a valve on the bottom, w 3 10 mm bolts going into it from the bottom. There is a coolant hose going into it also. On the back, towards firewall, of the valve there is a cover with 2 8mm/ phillips screws, take the cover off and there is a metal bullet looking thing with a white plastic ring around it. This thing becomes loose over time and can be screwed back in. This makes the vacume leak, and that's why that happens. Also, if your intake manifold gasket is damaged, that will cause it also.
-when i pulled it off and looked sure enough the plastic screw was out of place, i screw it back in and it ******* worked. I had that idling problem for 3 months, and u don;t know how happy i was when it was fixed.
good luck
05-06-2002, 02:36 PM
#35
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Re: B20B EG help... (B20eg-T)
Dude i had the same problem and "plan B" solved it.
if you look at the throttle body, there is a valve on the bottom, w 3 10 mm bolts going into it from the bottom. There is a coolant hose going into it also. On the back, towards firewall, of the valve there is a cover with 2 8mm/ phillips screws, take the cover off and there is a metal bullet looking thing with a white plastic ring around it. This thing becomes loose over time and can be screwed back in. This makes the vacume leak, and that's why that happens. Also, if your intake manifold gasket is damaged, that will cause it also.
-when i pulled it off and looked sure enough the plastic screw was out of place, i screw it back in and it ******* worked. I had that idling problem for 3 months, and u don;t know how happy i was when it was fixed.
good luck
if you look at the throttle body, there is a valve on the bottom, w 3 10 mm bolts going into it from the bottom. There is a coolant hose going into it also. On the back, towards firewall, of the valve there is a cover with 2 8mm/ phillips screws, take the cover off and there is a metal bullet looking thing with a white plastic ring around it. This thing becomes loose over time and can be screwed back in. This makes the vacume leak, and that's why that happens. Also, if your intake manifold gasket is damaged, that will cause it also.
-when i pulled it off and looked sure enough the plastic screw was out of place, i screw it back in and it ******* worked. I had that idling problem for 3 months, and u don;t know how happy i was when it was fixed.
good luck
05-19-2002, 06:44 AM
#36
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Re: B20B EG help... (T.O.tegs)
Dude i had the same problem and "plan B" solved it.
if you look at the throttle body, there is a valve on the bottom, w 3 10 mm bolts going into it from the bottom. There is a coolant hose going into it also. On the back, towards firewall, of the valve there is a cover with 2 8mm/ phillips screws, take the cover off and there is a metal bullet looking thing with a white plastic ring around it. This thing becomes loose over time and can be screwed back in. This makes the vacume leak, and that's why that happens. Also, if your intake manifold gasket is damaged, that will cause it also.
-when i pulled it off and looked sure enough the plastic screw was out of place, i screw it back in and it ******* worked. I had that idling problem for 3 months, and u don;t know how happy i was when it was fixed.
good luck
if you look at the throttle body, there is a valve on the bottom, w 3 10 mm bolts going into it from the bottom. There is a coolant hose going into it also. On the back, towards firewall, of the valve there is a cover with 2 8mm/ phillips screws, take the cover off and there is a metal bullet looking thing with a white plastic ring around it. This thing becomes loose over time and can be screwed back in. This makes the vacume leak, and that's why that happens. Also, if your intake manifold gasket is damaged, that will cause it also.
-when i pulled it off and looked sure enough the plastic screw was out of place, i screw it back in and it ******* worked. I had that idling problem for 3 months, and u don;t know how happy i was when it was fixed.
good luck
05-20-2002, 06:13 AM
#38
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Re: B20B EG help... (T.O.tegs)
-hey bro, thanks for the advise because IT WORKED!!!!hahaha... stupid thing was loose, thightened it and fired her up and what do you know, perfect idle!!
05-20-2002, 12:35 PM
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Re: B20B EG help... (owen_the_soyboy)
yes, this site is great!!
never got to go to the dyno yet but we did install the AEM FPR. first we put the fuel pressure up to 40psi @ idle(around 51psi open throttle) and it starting back firing like a b**ch and we could tell that it was running really rich. we ended up being happy with the fuel pressure set to 36psi @ idle(around 46-47psi @ open throtle)...that "felt" stongest but we'll see what happens at the dyno.
dyno will be up next week, be patient
never got to go to the dyno yet but we did install the AEM FPR. first we put the fuel pressure up to 40psi @ idle(around 51psi open throttle) and it starting back firing like a b**ch and we could tell that it was running really rich. we ended up being happy with the fuel pressure set to 36psi @ idle(around 46-47psi @ open throtle)...that "felt" stongest but we'll see what happens at the dyno.
dyno will be up next week, be patient
05-20-2002, 01:38 PM
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Re: B20B EG help... (POS Hatchback)
honestly, the car only felt like it might have ran a little lean up top....it actually felt like it ran really rich at idle...but the dyno will tell all...
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